Permanent Waving 1.4 12.1 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.4 COMMUNICATING FOR SUCCESS Copyright 2013 © WSCAP Washington State Apprentice Program COMMUNICATING FOR SUCCESS 1.4 Chemical Texturizing COMMUNICATING FOR SUCCESS COMMUNICATING FOR SUCCESS COMMUNICATING FOR SUCCESS COMMUNICATING FOR SUCCESS COMMUNICATING FOR SUCCESS COMMUNICATING FOR SUCCESS COMMUNICATING FOR SUCCESS 12.1 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.4 Permanent Waving Copyright 2013 © WSCAP Washington State Apprentice Program Copyright 2013 © WSCAP Washington State Apprentice Program Copyright 2013 © WSCAP Washington State Apprentice Program Copyright 2013 © WSCAP Washington State Apprentice Program

Texture Waves

Man Perms http://thetangential.com/2011/06/02/what-your-perm-says-about-you/

Where did the idea come from?

This Day In HISTORY October 08, 1906

Perming History Nessler An early alternative method for curling hair that was suitable for use on people was invented in 1905 by German hairdresser Karl Nessler.  He used a mixture of cow urine and water. The first public demonstration took place on 8 October 1905, but Nessler had been working on the idea since 1896. Previously, wigs had been set with caustic chemicals to form curls, but these recipes were too harsh to use next to human skin. His method, called the spiral heat method, was only useful for long hair. The hair was wrapped in a spiral around rods connected to a machine with an electric heating device. Sodium hydroxide (caustic soda) was applied and the hair was heated to 212 °F (100 °C) or more for an extended period of time. The process used about twelve 2-pound (0.9 kg) brass rollers and took six hours to complete. These hot rollers were kept from touching the scalp by a complex system of countering weights which were suspended from an overhead chandelier and mounted on a stand. Nessler conducted his first experiments on his wife, Katharina Laible. The first two attempts resulted in completely burning her hair off and some scalp burns, but the method was improved and his electric permanent wave machine was used in London in 1909 on the long hair of the time.

Perming History Norma Smallwood Nessler had moved to London in 1901, and during World War I, the British jailed Nessler because he was German and forced him to surrender his assets. He escaped to New York City in 1915, buying passage on a steamship under an assumed name. In New York, he found that hundreds of copies of his machine were in use, but most did not work well and were unreliable. Nessler opened a shop on East 49th Street, and soon had salons in Chicago, Detroit, Palm Beach, Florida and Philadelphia. Nessler also developed a machine for home use that was sold for fifteen dollars. However, his machine made little impression in Europe and his first attempts were not even mentioned in the professional press, perhaps because they were too long-winded, cumbersome and dangerous. Norma Smallwood Miss America 1926

Perming History Eugene Suter, Swiss hairdresser in London’s West End, using early heaters designed by Isidoro Calvete, Spanish electrical repairman. The heaters had two windings that heated the ends and roots separately. Calvete designed a new type of heater for this called a croquignole heater which fitted over the winding, rather like a bulldog clip. The trend was to replace some of the tubular heaters on the sides of the head with croquignole ones, to allow greater scope of styling.

Perming History In 1924 a Czech hairdresser called Josef Mayer. In this method, the hair was fed through a small clamp which after winding would hold the two ends of a roller. The ends of the hair were held on the roller which was until it reached the clamp into which it was inserted. For obvious reasons, this was called point-winding. Mayer attempted to claim a patent on this method of winding, which was challenged in a Federal lawsuit by the National Hairdressers' and Cosmetologists' Association.

Perming History Developments after 1930 Nestlé. Nessler re-entered the British market under this name, introducing the "Radione" system in which the hair was wound dry and inserted into hollow cellophane tubes sealed at both ends, but contained moistened paper. Also introduced the "oleum" system in which water was replaced by oil. MacDonald. A revolutionary system, as it did not use direct electrical heating. Steam was generated in a separate kettle, or later in small individual kettles, the steam being led by tubes to each "heater". Arrangements had to be made to remove the condensed water, but there was no risk of overheating nor of electric shock, but scalding was a risk. Gallia originated by J. Metelski, is credited with first moistening the hair with a reagent. which gave better results but made winding more difficult. It was said to be a very fast system. Superma originated by Sartory, was a machineless system that relied on the chemical reaction of the contents of a cotton pad, with water. Temperature control was rather more difficult but the method was popular in the United States perhaps because electricity was not used. Wella-Rapide was a German system that used croquignole heaters exclusively. A chandelier was not used and for safety worked at a reduced voltage. Frigidine was one of the few, apart from Icall, to use a timing mechanism and Bakelite heaters. Vapeur Marcel was a French machine based on the same principles as the MacDonald.

Texture Waves

STRUCTURE OF HAIR CUTICLE A tough outer layer of hair surrounds the inner layers and protects the hair from damage. The cuticle consists of seven or more overlapping layers. Alkaline solutions soften and swell the hair, raising the cuticle and allowing the solution to penetrate into the cortex.

CORTEX This middle layer is a major component of hair. Polypeptide chains are connected by end bonds, and crosslinked by side bonds that form fibers and structure of hair. Breaking the side bonds of the cortex makes it possible to change the natural wave pattern. All physical and chemical actions take place in the cortex.

PEPTIDE BONDS (END BONDS) Peptide bonds join amino acids together, forming long chains called polypeptide chains. These chains are long, coiled, complex proteins made up of many different amino acids linked together like beads. Peptide bonds should not be broken; this could cause the polypeptide chains to come apart and dramatically weaken the hair, causing breakage.

SIDE BONDS The cortex—is made up of millions of polypeptide chains Crosslinked by three types of side or cross bonds Disulfide bonds Salt bonds Hydrogen bonds

DISULFIDE BONDS Formed between two cysteine amino acids Located on neighboring polypeptide chains Join cysteine sulfur atoms from two different polypeptide chains to form cystine (oxidized form of cysteine)

DISULFIDE BONDS Stronger than hydrogen or salt bonds. Weaker than peptide bonds. Cannot be broken by heat or water. Account for about one third of hair’s overall strength. Chemical and physical changes in disulfide bonds are what make chemical texture services possible.

SALT BONDS Side or cross bonds Relatively weak and result from an attraction between opposite electrical charges Easily broken by changes in pH Re-form when pH returns to normal Weaker than disulfide bonds, but due to quantity, account for about one third of hair’s strength

HYDROGEN BONDS Relatively weak and result from an attraction between opposite electrical charges Easily broken by water Re-forms as the hair dries or cools Individually weak but their quantity accounts for about one third of hair’s total strength

CHEMICAL ACTION ON HAIR Hair before processing The disulfide (chemical) bonds give hair its strength and firmness. These bonds must be broken down to allow the perming process to occur. POLYPEPTIDE CHAINS DISULFIDE BONDS

PROCESSING Waving lotion breaks the disulfide bonds and softens hair. The hair is then molded to the shape of the rod.

NEUTRALIZING When the hair has assumed the new desired shape of the rod, the broken disulfide bonds must be chemically rebonded with the neutralizer.

THE CHEMISTRY OF NEUTRALIZER Its function is to permanently establish new curl shape. If hair is not properly neutralized, it will relax within a few shampoos. It is composed of a small percent of H²O² at an acidic pH. Procedures vary by product; always follow directions carefully.

CLIENT CONSULTATION CONSULTATION GUIDELINES Introduce self; greet client by name Ask open-ended questions Review photos with client Ask about past texture services Ask about current style; discuss changes that will occur Evaluate condition, texture, and wave pattern of the hair Fill out client consultation card

CLIENT RECORD Include a complete hair analysis. Record previous problems or adverse reactions. Record service details: Record type of product used Type and size of perm rods used Wrapping technique used Processing time Results Update records with each service.

CLIENT RELEASE FORM Should be signed prior to a service May or may not release school or salon from responsibility Indicates that the client knew there was a possibility of damage to hair

HAIR AND SCALP ANALYSIS Look for cuts, scratches, or open sores; do not proceed with service if skin abrasions or a scalp disease is present. Hair is the fastest growing appendage of the human body. Hair is affected by diet, exercise, medications, and stress. The five most important factors in hair analysis are texture. density. porosity. elasticity. growth direction.

HAIR TEXTURE Hair texture describes the diameter of a single strand of hair, and is classified as fine, medium, or coarse Coarse hair usually requires more processing time; may be resistant; more difficult to penetrate. Medium hair is most common; considered normal and does not pose special problems. Fine hair is fragile; easier to process and more susceptible to damage; hair will process faster and more easily than medium or coarse hair.

TEXTURE Course Medium Fine

DENSITY Density refers to the number of hairs per square inch on the head. By assessing density, you will determine the size of the partings to be used. Thick hair requires small partings. Thin hair can use slightly larger partings.

FOUR TYPES OF POROSITY Resistant—cuticle lays close to hair shaft; absorbs waving lotion slowly; requires longer processing time and stronger solution. Good porosity—cuticle slightly raised from shaft; absorbs moisture and/or chemicals in average time. Porous hair—made porous by treatments; absorbs lotion quickly; requires shortest processing time; use a lower pH solution. Overly-porous hair—damaged, dry, brittle, fragile; reconditioning or cutting required before perming. You may use a prewrap lotion to even porosity.

RESISTANT HAIR Tight compact cuticle Hair lays flat on shaft

GOOD POROSITY Cuticle slightly raised Normal hair Can absorb moisture in average time

EXTREME POROSITY Use a lower PH solution. Proceed with caution.

DAMAGED, OVERPROCESSED HAIR Hair is dry. brittle. fragile. Until hair is cut, do not perm.

POROSITY TEST Hold end of hair; slide fingers down on hair toward scalp. If hair is smooth and cuticle is dense, the hair will be resistant and will not easily absorb perm solution. If you feel slight roughness, cuticle is open and hair is porous.

HAIR ELASTICITY Is the ability of the hair to stretch and return to normal shape without breaking Indicates the strength of the side bonds Determines the hair’s ability to hold a curl Classified as: Normal—can stretch up to 50% of its length and return without breaking Low—does not return to its original shape when stretched

DIRECTION OF HAIR GROWTH Direction of hair growth causes hair streams, whorls, and cowlicks that influence finished styles, and should be considered when selecting the base direction and waving pattern for a permanent wave.

PERMANENT WAVING A Two-Step Process Physical change—the act of wrapping sections of hair around a perm rod Chemical change—caused by the permanent waving solution and the neutralizer

THE PERM WRAP Size, shape, and type of curl are determined by the type of rod used for wrapping. Perm solution softens the hair to conform to the shape of the rod used. Tension produces the curl; too much tension can cause breakage. Keep hair wet and wrap with uniform, even tension.

SECTIONING Panels Base sections Size, shape, and direction of panels vary based on type of wrapping pattern. Base sections Panels are divided into subsections called base sections. Size of base section is determined by the length and width of the rod.

BASE CONTROL Refers to the position of the rod in relation to its base section Is determined by the angle at which hair is wrapped

ON-BASE PLACEMENT Hair is wrapped at an angle of 45 degrees beyond perpendicular to its base section. Rod is positioned on its base section.

HALF-OFF-BASE PLACEMENT Hair is wrapped at a 90-degree angle (perpendicular) to its base section. Rod is positioned half off its base section. This positioning minimizes stress and tension on the hair.

OFF-BASE PLACEMENT Hair is wrapped at an angle 45 degrees below perpendicular to its base section. Rod is positioned completely off its base section. Creates least amount of volume and curl pattern that begins away from the scalp.

BASE DIRECTION Refers to the angle at which the rod is positioned on the head Horizontally Vertically Diagonally Also refers to the directional pattern in which hair is wrapped Backward Forward To one side Wrapping against the natural growth pattern causes excess stress that may damage or break the hair.

WRAPPING TECHNIQUES Croquignole Spiral Croquignole wrapping—The hair strands are wrapped from ends to the scalp in overlapping layers. The curl is tighter on the ends and gets larger nearer the scalp. Spiral wrapping—Hair is wound from ends to the scalp with most rods. The angle at which the hair is wrapped causes the hair to spiral along the length of the rod. This technique causes a uniform curl from scalp to ends.

ROD TYPES Concave rods Straight rods Long and short rods, and the contours of the head

SOFT BENDER RODS Are about 12 inches long Have uniform diameter along entire length Have soft foam with a stiff inner wire Can be used with a croquignole or spiral wrapping technique

CIRCLE TOOL OR LOOP ROD Are usually about 12 inches long with a uniform diameter Are ideal for wrapping extremely long hair Form a circle when fastened together

END PAPERS They are also known as end wraps. They are absorbent papers used to control the ends of the hair when wrapping. Papers should extend beyond ends of hair to prevent “fishhooks.” Double flat wrap uses end papers, one placed under and one over hair strand; both papers extend past hair ends. Double flat wrap

END PAPERS Single flat wrap Bookend wrap Single flat wrap uses one end paper placed over top of strand of hair being wrapped. Bookend wrap uses one end paper folded in half over hair ends like an envelope. This eliminates excess paper, and can be used with short rods or with very short lengths of hair.

CHEMISTRY PERM WAVING OF

The same hair saturated with acid- balanced pH of 7.5 for five minutes REDUCTION Hair saturated with alkaline solution with a pH of 9.5 for five minutes The same hair saturated with acid- balanced pH of 7.5 for five minutes Waving solution softens and swells the hair. This raises the cuticle and permits solution to penetrate cortex. Once in the cortex, solution breaks the disulfide bonds through a chemical reaction called reduction. A reduction reaction involves either the addition of hydrogen or the removal of oxygen. In permanent waving, the reaction is a result of the addition of hydrogen.

REDUCTION Disulfide bonds join a sulfur atom on one polypeptide chain with a second sulfur atom on a neighboring polypeptide chain. Solution breaks a disulfide bond by adding a hydrogen atom to each of the sulfur atoms in the disulfide bond. Sulfur atoms attach to the hydrogen from the solution, breaking their attachment to each other. Once broken, polypeptide chains are able to be reshaped into new curls.

REDUCING AGENTS Thio compounds are commonly referred to as Thio. Thioglycolic acid is the most common thio. It is a colorless liquid with a strong, unpleasant odor. It provides the hydrogen that causes the reduction in permanent waving solutions. Strength of solutions is determined by the concentration of thio. Stronger solutions have a higher concentration of thio with a greater number of hydrogen atoms. The greater the hydrogen atoms available, the more disulfide bonds are broken.

REDUCING AGENTS Thioglycolic acid does not swell hair or penetrate the cortex. The manufacturer has to add an alkalizing agent. When ammonia is added, a new chemical called ammonium thioglycolate is formed (which is alkaline). Ammonium thioglycolate is the main active ingredient in alkaline perms. Perm pH Second factor in overall strength of permanent waving solution. Coarse hair with strong, resistant cuticle layer may need additional swelling and penetration. The pH of solution should correspond to the resistance, strength, and porosity of the cuticle layer.

TYPES OF PERMANENT WAVES Alkaline Waves or Cold Waves First developed in 1941 using ammonium thioglycolate (ATG) Known as cold waves because they process at room temperature Usually have a pH between 9.0 and 9.6 pH scale of various perms

TRUE ACID WAVES Were introduced in early 1970s. Usually have a pH of 4.5 to 7.0. Require heat for processing. Main active ingredient—glyceryl monothioglycolate (GMTG), which is acid and has a low pH. Acid waves process more slowly and do not produce as firm a curl as alkaline waves. They have a pH below 7.0. A pH of 5.0 is neutral for hair because pH is calculated on a logarithmic scale; a pH of 7.0 is 100 times more alkaline than the pH of hair; therefore, acid waves can swell the hair.

ACID-BALANCED WAVES AND COMPONENTS Most of these have a pH between 7.8 and 8.2, which means they are not true acid waves. Modern acid waves are acid-balanced, and process more quickly and produce firmer curls than true acid waves. Components Permanent waving solution Activator CAUTION: Adding activator to neutralizer by accident will cause a violent chemical reaction that can cause injury, especially to eyes. Neutralizer

EXOTHERMIC WAVES AND COMPONENTS These create an exothermic chemical reaction that heats up the solution and speeds up the processing. Waving solution contains thio. Activator contains an oxidizing agent (usually hydrogen peroxide). Mixing oxidizer with solution causes a rapid release of heat and an increase of temperature of the solution. Heat increases the rate of the chemical reaction and reduces the processing time.

ENDOTHERMIC WAVES These are activated by an outside heat source. Usually a conventional hood dryer is used. These will not process properly at room temperature.

AMMONIA-FREE PERMS Main ingredient does not evaporate as readily as ammonia. Aminomethylpropanol (AMP) and monoethanolamine (MEA) are examples of alkanolamines that are used as substitutes for ammonia. Odor is reduced but damage can still occur.

THIO-FREE WAVES These use a reducing agent other than ammonium thioglycolate such as cysteamine or mercaptamine, which are thio compounds. At high concentration, the reducing agents in thio-free waves can be as damaging as thio.

LOW-pH WAVES Not very popular Weak and do not provide a firm curl Usually marketed as body waves Sulfate, sulfite, and bisulfite alternatives to ammonium thioglycolate

SELECTING THE RIGHT TYPE OF PERM It is important to select the right type of perm for each client. Every client has hair with its own distinct texture and condition. Individual needs must be addressed. Choose the type of perm best suited to your client’s hair type, condition, and desired results.

PERMANENT WAVE PROCESSING Most processing takes place in the first 5 to 10 minutes. Additional time allows polypeptide chains to shift to new configuration.

PERMANENT WAVE PROCESSING OVERPROCESSED HAIR This does not necessarily mean extremely curly. If too many disulfide bonds are broken, hair will be too weak to hold a firm curl. Hair at scalp is usually stronger than ends, so overprocessed hair is usually curlier at the scalp and straighter at the ends. UNDERPROCESSED HAIR If too few disulfide bonds are broken, hair will not be sufficiently softened and will not hold the desired curl. Hair at scalp is usually not as curly as the ends. More processing will make it curlier.

PERMANENT WAVING NEUTRALIZATION This is the process of stopping the action of a waving solution and hardening hair in its new form. It deactivates any waving lotion remaining in hair. It rebuilds the disulfide bonds into their new shape. Neutralizers are oxidizers. The most common neutralizer is hydrogen peroxide. Concentrations vary between 5 volume and 10 volume.

STAGE ONE OF NEUTRALIZING The first function is deactivation of waving solution that remains in hair after rinsing. Rinse hair for five full minutes. Towel-blot each rod thoroughly several times using dry towels. If directed, apply a preneutralizing conditioner. This is an acidic liquid protein conditioner. Follow manufacturers’ directions for use.

STAGE TWO OF NEUTRALIZING Solution breaks disulfide bonds by adding hydrogen atoms to sulfur atoms. Neutralization rebuilds disulfide bonds by removing extra hydrogen atoms. Hydrogen atoms attract to oxygen in neutralizer, release bond with sulfur atoms, and join with oxygen. Each oxygen atom joins with two hydrogen atoms to rebuild disulfide bond and make one molecule of water. Water is removed in final rinse. Disulfide bonds form in their new curled position.

NEW DISULFIDE PAIRS Neutralizer removes extra hydrogen atoms. Each sulfur atom forms a bond with a nearby sulfur atom. Strength of newly formed disulfide bond pairs holds the hair in its new shape.

POST-PERM HAIR CARE A properly neutralized perm is stable, and a waiting period before shampooing is not necessary. Shampoo with a mild, acid-balanced shampoo; this should not cause excessive relaxation or damage to the hair or scalp. Modern day demipermanent, deposit-only haircolors can be used safely on freshly permed, properly neutralized hair.

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS Protect client’s clothing. Do not give service if client is allergic to products. Discard unused products. Do not dilute or add ingredients. Keep solution away from eyes and skin. Always follow manufacturers’ directions. Wear gloves while applying solutions. Replace wet cotton or towels. Examine scalp prior to service. Do not perm excessively damaged or broken hair. Do not perm hair previously treated with hydroxide relaxers. Perform test for metallic salts. Apply protective barrier cream around hairline and ears.

METALLIC SALTS Are not compatible with permanent waving solutions Leave a coating on the hair May cause uneven curls, severe discoloration, or hair breakage Are common in men’s haircolors sold for home use Usually found in restorers and progressive haircolors that darken hair gradually with repeated applications

TEST FOR METALLIC SALTS Use glass or plastic bowl. Mix 1 ounce of 20 volume peroxide with 20 drops of 28 percent ammonia. Immerse 20 strands or more of hair in solution for 30 minutes. If metallic salts are not present, hair will lighten slightly and you may proceed with service. If metallic salts are present, hair will lighten rapidly, the solution will get hot and give off an unpleasant odor and do not proceed with service.

SUMMARY Hair structure has a significant impact on the physical and chemical actions that occur in permanent waving. Proper hair and scalp analysis, as well as a client consultation, must be completed before a perm service. Hair condition, texture, length, porosity, and elasticity will effect the rod size and product you choose. Depending on the client’s desired results, you will choose one of many products and wrapping patterns.

PERMANENT WAVING PROCEDURES

PERMANENT WAVE PROCEDURES Basic wrapping methods can be combined to create a wide variety of specialized perm wraps. This will provide an unlimited number of styling options.

BASIC PERM WRAP This is also known as a straight set wrap. All rods within a panel move in the same direction. All rods are positioned on equal-size bases. All base sections are horizontal, with the same length and width as the perm rod.

CURVATURE PERM WRAP The movement curves within sectioned-out panels. Partings and bases radiate to follow the curvature of the head. Wrapping pattern uses pie-shaped sections in curvature areas.

BRICKLAY PERM WRAP This is similar to the actual technique of bricklaying. Base sections are offset by rows; this is done to prevent noticeable splits and to blend the flow of hair. Use different starting points when wrapping.

WEAVE WRAP Uses zigzag partings to divide base areas Can be used in whole or in part throughout head Is effective for blending between perm rods Can be used with various base directions, wrapping patterns, and perm rods Figure 15-41

PIGGYBACK WRAP This is also called a double tool wrap. Two rods are used for one strand of hair, one on top of the other.

SPIRAL PERM WRAP Hair is held at an angle that causes it to spiral along the length of the rod. Layers may partially overlap as they go along. Longer, thicker hair will benefit from this effect. Conventional rods, bendable soft foam rods, and circle rods can be used.

PRELIMINARY TEST CURLS These are beneficial because they help to predict the results of the perm; also results from the product used and from the rod size and wrapping technique. Perform a preliminary test curl if hair is damaged or outcome is uncertain. Make sure you adhere to the correct processing time for optimal curl development.

PARTIAL PERMS These perms use the same techniques and wrapping patterns as those used with other perms. To make a smooth transition from rolled section to unrolled section, use a larger rod for the last rod next to an unrolled section. Applying waving lotion to unrolled hair may straighten it or make it difficult to style. To protect unrolled hair, apply a protective barrier cream to unrolled section before applying waving lotion.

PERMS FOR MEN Male clients also look for added texture, fullness, style, and low maintenance that only a perm can provide. Perms help thin hair look fuller. Perms make straight or coarse hair more manageable. Perms control stubborn cowlicks. Perm techniques for men and women are essentially the same.

SUMMARY We have established that a perm will probably be your most frequently requested chemical service. Hair and scalp analysis is essential for successful results in permanent waving. Rod selection is based on hair length and hair texture. Wrapping pattern will be determined by the desired style. The perm procedure involves waving lotion to break down the side bonds. Neutralizer rehardens hair into its new curly shape. Follow all safety precautions when working with chemicals. Always put the safety and comfort of your client first and foremost in your work.