Growing Herbs from Stem Cuttings Sustainable Resources 11/12 Mrs. Earland 2013/2014

As a human, I can easily comprehend plant reproduction from seed: like our own approach to procreation, it’s sexual ­reproduction. Many herbs also reproduce asexually (vegetatively) by producing structures such as offsets and bulbils that eventually become independent: a complete plant can be regenerated from a severed piece of stem or root, a bud, a leaf or leaf part, even a small group of certain plant cells.

Step 1: When to Take Stem Cuttings Take a cutting from an herb plant between spring and fall, when the plants are healthy and growing steadily.  Avoid cuttings on plants that are currently flowering.  Focus on cuttings from new growth, rather than old growth. Avoid cuttings from plants that have been overly fertilized. Water herb plants thoroughly at least 12 hours before taking cuttings.

Step 2 - Cutting the Stem Prepare your tools. Clean all tools used for cutting with warm soapy water. Sterilize the tools by wiping them with alcohol. Cut the stem. There are several different types of cuttings that can be used to propagate herbs. Determine the type of cutting you desire, and cut the stem accordingly. the cut should be at an angle to maximize the cambial tissue exposed to the soil. Cut right below a node, which is a joint or growing point of the stem from which side branches and leaves may grow. Strip the stem. Remove all side shoots and leaves from approximately the lower two-thirds of the stem. Stripping the stem creates a wound at each node, which exposes more cambial tissue and encourages rooting. Removing the leaves and stems also helps to prevent root rot.

Cutting Types & Tips Remove a tip cutting. A tip cutting is removed at the end of a stem. The plant will grow upward and often produces a single vertical stem. A tip cutting is ideal for creating a topiary. To remove a tip cutting, cut about 5 or 6 inches (12.7 or 15.2 cm ) from the tip of a stem. The stem can be a main stem of the plant or a healthy side shoot. Take a sectional cutting. A sectional cutting is from the middle of the stem, so it has 1 cut on each end. Herbs propagated from sectional cuttings typically are bushy because they grow through side shoots. Slice the upper portion of the cutting straight across the stem, and the lower portion of the cutting at an angle. This helps in recognizing the top of the cutting from the bottom. You can take a sectional cutting with a single node, or with several nodes. Remove a basal cutting. A basal cutting is an entire side shoot that is about 6 inches (15.2 cm) long and typically unbranched. Basal cuttings tend to root quickly because the cutting is younger than the main stem. Basal cuttings typically grow up in direction, similar to a tip cutting. Remove a basal cutting where the side branch meets the main stem. Take a heel cutting. A heel cutting is a basal cutting with part of the main stem attached. To remove a heel cutting, hold a side shoot where it connects to the main stem, and pull down so that a shallow strip of the tissue from the main stem peels off with the shoot. The tissue from the main stem encourages rooting and is not likely to damage an established plant. Do not take 2 heel cuttings opposite from each another or you may weaken the stem.

Step 3 – Root and Stick the Cutting Apply rooting compound. Shake a small amount (about 2 to 3 tablespoons or 30 to 45 ml) of rotting compound onto a paper plate. Dip the lower part of the stem into the compound and then lightly shake off the excess. Apply root compound conservatively;

Select rooting containers Select rooting containers. Cuttings can be rooted in any container with drainage holes. You can root the cuttings in individual pots, or in a flat that contains several 2- or 3-inch (5- or 7.6-cm) cells. Prepare the rooting medium.  a mix of garden soil, peat moss, perlite, turface, vermiculite, and hardwood or pine bark. Commercial blends are available at most garden centers. Prepare the container. Fill the container about three-quarters full of rooting medium. Place the container in a pan of water and let it sit until the top of the rooting medium appears moist. Then allow the container to drain for 10 minutes.

Stick the cuttings. Poke a hole in the rooting medium a little larger than the stem using a pencil or straw. The pre-formed holes allow the rooting compound to stay on the cutting, rather than being brushed off onto the top of the soil. Then insert, or "stick" the cuttings into the rooting medium. The lower parts should be firmly supported by the rooting medium, and should not be touching the bottom of the container. Label the pots and/or flats. If you are planting different kinds of herbs, label each pot or flat with the name of the herb and the planting date.

Part 4 - Maintenance Remove stressed foliage. Remove any dried or rotten leaves, and remove any flowers that may form during the rooting process. Water the cuttings. Hand-mist the cuttings several times an hour for the first several days. If you can't hand-mist regularly, create a humid atmosphere around the cuttings with a plastic tent, such as a food storage bag. Be sure the tent does not touch the leaves or they may rot. Maintain a moderate temperature. Keep the soil temperatures between 65 and 80 degrees F (18.3 and 26.7 degrees C). Provide indirect sunlight. The process of regeneration requires light for photosynthesis. However, direct sunlight will burn the fragile cuttings. Place the cuttings in a north-facing window or provide artificial lighting.

Part 5 – Transferring the Cuttings Transplant the cuttings to a pot or a garden as soon as roots can hold soil. It may take 2 to 7 weeks for the root system to form. The herbs will begin to produce new leaves when the root system is formed. If you lift up on the stem and the soil comes with the plant, it is ready to be transplanted. Roots also may be visible in the drainage holes. Water the plants thoroughly after transplanting Apply a fertilizer. The plant may go into shock when transplanted. Lightly apply a one-quarter diluted 20-20-20 fertilizer to the herb. Fertilize less than the recommended amount for the specific herb, and gradually work up to full amount.