Haircoloring Chapter 21

Draw the three layers of hair CUTICLE CORTEX MEDULLA

Three layers of hair

Cuticle – Outermost layer, Protection, Scale-like, 20% strength Cortex – Middle layer, gives strength, contains melanin, 80 % strength Medulla – inner most layer, sometimes missing in fine hair.

Qualities of hair ~ TEXTURE DENSITY POROSITY ELASTICITY

~ TEXTURE TEXTURE- The diameter of a single hair strand COARSE HAIR– LARGE DIAMETER Takes longer to process, most resistant MEDIUM HAIR – MEDIUM DIAMETER FINE HAIR – SMALL DIAMETER Processes faster, less resistant

DENSITY Hairs per square inch Thick hair or thin hair? The thicker the hair the thinner the sections

Density ~ What hair color has the most density? The least?

POROSITY The ability of hair to absorb liquids High porosity Cuticle highly lifted, damaged, rough Hair takes or processes faster Average porosity Normal – healthy hair Slightly raised cuticle Average/Normal processing time Low porosity Cuticle very tight, smooth, shiny More resistant, takes longer to process

Porosity – Which hair will take color fastest?

ELASTICITY The ability of hair to stretch without breaking Hair should stretch __50___ % of it's length “Pull Test” is used to test elasticity of hair

Law of Color Primary colors

Law of color Secondary

Law of Color Tertiary colors

Complimentary colors Opposite colors combi on

Types of haircolor Temporary Semi Permanent Demi Permanent Permanent

Two categories of haircolor Non Oxidative No lift Oxidative lift – with the use of peroxide