Traditional Photography Unit 15

Film

Medium Format and 35mm

How does film work Film is made of celluloid, which is a compounds of nitrocellulose and camphor, this compound is extremely flammable. Film is also filled with silver nitrate that’s been treated with halide salts of sodium or potassium and that makes insoluble silver halide that’s in photographic gelatine. When light hits silver nitrate it makes it into metallic silver, we need this to make this image visible.

Processing Film The lights need to be off when processing film so it’s totally dark to prevent the film becoming exposed, the rooms used for this are called darkrooms and even though the lights need to be off the use of a safelight which is either a red or amber light is used to light the room. There’s two types of film reels which are plastic and stainless steel, with the stainless steel the film is attached to the middle of it then turned so the film goes on the reel grooves. However with plastic reels, the film is put on the outside and then turned on the reel by using a back and forth motion. The reel keeps the film in a spiral shape so the film is evenly spaced, allowing the development tank chemicals to get to each film.

The film reel is then put into a developing tank, this is a light-tight container. The tank let’s the film develop in an environment that is like daylight. More than one reel can be placed into a tank depending on the tank’s size. Once the development is done the natural lights still shouldn’t be turned on, the film should be left to dry and then stored in darkness still, exposer to light after the film has been processed can still damage the image. Processing Film

Developing There’s various chemicals involved in development film, this chemicals often come in concentrate form so need to be diluted with water. First when developing film developer needs to be added, this changes the latent image into a visible image. This is caused by the development agents reducing the silver halides into silver metal. This is best to be agitated for 2-6 minuets. Once the development is done the developer needs to be poured out, this is done with the aid of a stop bath. A stop bath washes off the development chemicals or neutralises it, however this steadily halts the development, for an immediate halt a stop bath will have acetic acid in it.

After pouring out the stop bath a fixer needs to be added, this removes chemicals that a unused from the film, the fixer needs to be left in for 6 minuets, agitated for 3 minuets and then the tank can be opened after 3 minuets. After this is done the film can then be washed and dried, it’s washed with a hypo- cleaning agent for 1-1/2 minuets, then pour it out and add water that’s been heated to 20 degrees celsuis, this is to be left for 10 minuets to make sure all chemicals have been removed. To dry the film it needs to be taken out the water and the film needs shaking lightly to remove the extra water, then the film needs to be removed from the reel and hung in a room to dry off. Developing

Negatives

Positive?

What use are negatives? Negative photographs are photo’s with inverted colours after their development. The second process of making a print is done to get multiple photos of varying sizes if desired. Also there’s a reversal film that creates a positive photograph which doesn’t have complementary colours.

Prints are made of celluloid, which is a compounds of nitrocellulose and camphor, this compound is extremely flammable. Prints are also filled with silver nitrate that’s been treated with halide salts of sodium or potassium and that makes insoluble silver halide that’s in photographic gelatine. When light hits silver nitrate it makes it into metallic silver, we need this to make this image visible. Making Prints

Enlarging When enlarging an image, the negative should be placed under the enlarger so it can then be projected onto the paper for a certain length of time, most likely 10 seconds to 2 minuets.

Adjustments Burning To burn-in a print, the print is first given normal exposure. Next, extra exposure is given to the area or areas that need to be darkened. A card or other opaque object is held between the enlarger lens and the photographic paper in such a way as to allow light to fall only on the portion of the scene to be darkened. Dodging A card or other opaque object is held between the enlarger lens and the photographic paper in such a way as to block light from the portion of the scene to be lightened. Since the technique is used with a negative-to-positive process, reducing the amount of light results in a lighter image.

Adjustments Contrast in photographic composition is an effective means of directing the viewer's attention to the center of interest. Positioning of subject elements to create contrast gives them added emphasis and directs the viewer's attention. When we speak of contrast as it relates to composition, we are referring to both tonal contrast, as in black-and-white photography, and color contrast as it relates to color photography. In black-and-white photography, contrast is the difference in subject tones from white-to-gray-to-black or from the lightest tone to the darkest tone. In color photography different colors create contrast.

The lights need to be off when processing prints so it’s totally dark to prevent the prints becoming exposed, the rooms used for this are called darkrooms and even though the lights need to be off the use of a safelight which is either a red or amber light is used to light the room. Processing Prints The prints are then put into a tray, the tray let’s the prints develop properly. It’s advised to not add anymore than one print per tray. Once the development is done the natural lights still shouldn’t be turned on, the print should be left to dry and then stored in darkness still, exposer to light after the print has been processed can still damage the image.

There’s various chemicals involved in the development of prints, this chemicals often come in concentrate form so need to be diluted with water. First when developing developer needs to be added, this changes the latent image into a visible image. This is caused by the development agents reducing the silver halides into silver metal. This is best to be agitated for 2-6 minuets. Once the development is done the developer needs to be poured out, this is done with the aid of a stop bath. A stop bath washes off the development chemicals or neutralises it, however this steadily halts the development, for an immediate halt a stop bath will have acetic acid in it. Developing Prints

Finishing To make a photograph have a glossy texture, even traditionally a special photographic paper is used that is a type of Exhibition Fiber paper. Cropping refers to the removal of the outer parts of an image to improve framing, accentuate subject matter or change aspect ratio. Depending on the application, this may be performed on a physical photograph, artwork or film footage, or achieved digitally using image editing software. The term is common to the film, broadcasting, photographic, graphic design and printing industries.

To protect the print from bending or wrinkling, to prepare it for framing, or to keep it stiff while hanging on the wall, it is necessary to mount it on a rigid backing. Mounting implies adhering a print to a back board. There are three main techniques: 1) the print is completely adhered to the board using the dry-mount process, 2) the print is held in place on the board with photo corners and 3) the print is held into place at points with hinge-mounts. If you choose to mount the photograph to a back board without a window mat, then the print should be attached in such a way that the adhesive does not show Finishing

Write Up Film and prints are made of celluloid, which is a compounds of nitrocellulose and camphor, this compound is extremely flammable. They’re also filled with silver nitrate that’s been treated with halide salts of sodium or potassium and that makes insoluble silver halide that’s in photographic gelatine. When light hits silver nitrate it makes it into metallic silver, we need this to make this image visible. There’s various chemicals involved in development film, this chemicals often come in concentrate form so need to be diluted with water. First when developing film and prints developer needs to be added, this changes the latent image into a visible image. This is caused by the development agents reducing the silver halides into silver metal. This is best to be agitated for 2-6 minuets.

Once the development is done the developer needs to be poured out, this is done with the aid of a stop bath. A stop bath washes off the development chemicals or neutralises it, however this steadily halts the development, for an immediate halt a stop bath will have acetic acid in it. Write Up After pouring out the stop bath a fixer needs to be added, this removes chemicals that a unused from the film, the fixer needs to be left in for 6 minuets, agitated for 3 minuets and then the tank can be opened after 3 minuets. After this is done the film can then be washed and dried, it’s washed with a hypo- cleaning agent for 1-1/2 minuets, then pour it out and add water that’s been heated to 20 degrees celsuis, this is to be left for 10 minuets to make sure all chemicals have been removed. To dry the film it needs to be taken out the water and the film needs shaking lightly to remove the extra water, then the film needs to be removed from the reel and hung in a room to dry off.