François Christiaens, L’Oréal Recherche,Clichy, France L’Oréal and Solar UV Radiation

INTRODUCTION L’Oréal, an overview in years of expertise in cosmetics 100 years of expertise in cosmetics 17 global brands 17 global brands 14 billion euro consolidated sales 14 billion euro consolidated sales 480 million euro invested in R&D 480 million euro invested in R&D 50,500 employees 50,500 employees 15% share of the global cosmetics market 15% share of the global cosmetics market 3.9 billion units manufactured annually 3.9 billion units manufactured annually 130 products sold every second 130 products sold every second

COSMETICS, UNIQUE EXPERTISE A brand portfolio that is unique in the world

RESEARCH, DRIVING GROWTH More than 500 patents filed per year 8 research centers in Europe, 3 in North America and 3 in Asia 3 evaluation centers in Europe, 4 in America and 3 in Asia 480-million-euro R&D budget 2,900 staff members 1/3 of the R&D budget is earmarked for advanced research Numerous scientific papers in peer-reviewed journals and presentations in congress

Hair and skin occupy a special place on the surface of the human body, in direct contact with the environment. Their diversity and the alterations they may show are partly linked to climate and pollution. African skin Chinese skin European skin Motivation for participating in the project (background) 1/2

Exposure to solar radiation can have severe consequences: l Skin: erythema, ageing, dryness, immunodeficiency, allergies, pigmentation, wrinkles... l Hair: protein and lipid oxidation, with consequences on the cosmetic aspect and properties (fragility). The UltraViolet waveband of the solar spectrum is involved in these alterations. Motivation for participating in the project (background) 2/2

UV irradiances and doses Both physical (UVB, UVA) and biologically-weigthed (erythemal) Kind of data: - Climatologies - Global and local maxima and averages - Time series at different locations - Forecasts INFORMATION NEEDS

Too few (or geographically missing) collecting sites worlwide Limited availability of data over time Instrumental intercomparison is required because of different: - instruments - calibration and operating procedures No data on UVA radiation available LIMITATIONS OF EXISTING INFORMATION

« Physical » requirements: - Sea level - Region: Global, but focused on populated areas - Spatial resolution: 1 by 1 degree - Time period: climatology - Max. time delay: means for every ten days or less/more often depending on the variation in time of the product (a significant variation is 20 %) the variation in time of the product (a significant variation is 20 %) - (When applicable: Spectral step: 1 nm) - Accuracy: better than 5% REQUIREMENTS Handling of data by the end-user - Interactive maps and ASCII format - Interactive maps and ASCII format - Delivery method: web-page, with a user-friendly interface for a consumer - Delivery method: web-page, with a user-friendly interface for a consumer

§Specifications definition §Periodical follow-up (includes attending to meetings) §Feed-back: - Improvement proposals - Related links Sub-contractor and industrial partner on the road to success INVOLVEMENT

Clear-sky UV index, global and Europe Clear-sky UV index, global and Europe lToday and 4-days forecast based on SCIAMACHY data lClimatologies based on GOME data, including monthly averages and yearly extrema PRODUCTS AND SERVICES RECEIVED (1/3)

Erythemal UV doses: lIndividual day data for 2004 (SCIAMACHY) lClimatologies, , from GOME data PRODUCTS AND SERVICES RECEIVED (2/3)

On-line help PRODUCTS AND SERVICES RECEIVED (3/3)

Comparisons with published models and local ground measures Ease of use / care of specifications Assistance quality: - relevance - full answer - delay ASSESSMENT

Complementary products - Interactive maps - UV-index and UV doses results after may 2003 (i.e. based on SCIAMACHY): Yearly averages and extrema, monthly averages and climatologies, both for Yearly averages and extrema, monthly averages and climatologies, both for global and areas of interest global and areas of interest EXPECTATIONS FOR THE REMAINDER IN THE PROJECT Implementation of UVA data Delays for the availability of time series Information whether such improvements can be achieved: - High spatial resolution: 10 x 10 km - Spectral irradiance for the waveband nm

Improve the relevance of indoor tests: l Mimic actual UV spectra in solar simulators l Fine-tune the doses delivered in: internal tests,internal tests, sub-contractors laboratories,sub-contractors laboratories, studies made within scientific collaborationstudies made within scientific collaboration l Provide cosmetic products customised to consumer needs, worldwide to consumer needs, worldwide PLANS FOR THE USE OF EO-SERVICES AFTER THE PROJECT (1/2)

Help our scientific communication: l To provide services that rely on high-technology work, and thus take a lead over competitors l To convince people about the benefits of UV photoprotection Here is what your lovely, healthy skin looks like when not exposed (waow)Here is what your lovely, healthy skin looks like when not exposed (waow) Here are the UV doses you may receive (ouch)Here are the UV doses you may receive (ouch) Here is the biological damage when exposed to these doses (argh)Here is the biological damage when exposed to these doses (argh) When you apply a right product, your skin (hairs) is protected (phew)When you apply a right product, your skin (hairs) is protected (phew) PLANS FOR THE USE OF EO-SERVICES AFTER THE PROJECT (2/2)

L’Oréal and ESA/KNMI: A state-of-the-art scientific collaboration… …because you’re worth it ! CONCLUSION

Thank you for your attention