Apparel Construction Review

Sewing Machine  Needle thread + bobbin thread= stitch  To bring up bobbin thread, hold needle thread while turning hand wheel  Replace needle with flat side to back  Loud/unusual noise=stop sewing!

Sewing Machine Parts  Machine Parts/Function –  thread guide  feed dog  Tension  stitch length regulator  take-up lever  presser bar lifter  hand wheel

Equipment  Scissors vs. Shears  Needles vs. Pins  Seam Ripper, seam gauge, tape measure pinking shears, safety pin, interfacing

Pressing  Plain seams – press open  Serged seams – press to one side  Press on the back/wrong side  Iron Temperature based on fabric type

Pressing Tools  Pressing Ham = darts, curved seams  Sleeve Board –looks like small ironing bd.  Seam Roll – won’t leave marks from edges  Needle Board = for corduroy, velvet

Pattern Symbols  Know how to measure the grain line  Place-on-fold arrow  Symbols help you cut, mark, sew

Fabric  Selvage=smooth finish, won’t ravel  Lengthwise=parallel to selvage, straight grain, runs vertical on a person  Crosswise – runs selvage to selvage  Bias = 45 degree angle, greatest stretch

Layout  Layout ALL pattern pieces before cutting  Cutting layouts illustrated on guide sheet  Cut with fabric flat on table  Cut notches OUT, away from the pattern

Pattern Envelope  Fabric yardage chart – on back  Fewer pieces= easier pattern  Notions=thread, buttons, zipper, elastic…  Multi-size patterns=several sizes on one

The Pattern  Press with dry iron before pinning to fabric  Printed on each piece = pattern #, size, view, name & number of piece  Know all symbols (see handout)

The Pattern Size  Pattern sizes are not the same as RTW  Choose size for shirt based on bust msmt.  Choose size for skirt based on hip msmt.  Pattern alterations=lengthen/shorten, etc.

Sewing  Right sides of fabric together  Seams = 5/8” wide  Regular stitch=2 ½ Basting= 4 or 5  Backstitching – only 3-5 stitches

Sewing Techniques  Staystitching – sewing one layer of fabric to prevent stretching  Insert elastic with a safety pin  Trim vs. clip  Sew at a slow, constant speed, guide fabric…don’t pull.

Serger  Cut, sew, overlock the edge  Can’t replace a regular machine  Can’t sew over pins or backstitch  2 needle threads, upper & lower looper  Each thread has its own tension regulator

The End