Prepare the Pattern and Fabric for Construction Apparel I: Objective 4.02

Preparing Fabric for Sewing STEP 1: Straighten Fabric Ends To straighten WOVEN fabric ◦ Clip the selvage edge and either tear or pull a crosswise thread (thread that runs from selvage to selvage) and cut along space left from pulled thread. To straighten KNITTED fabric ◦ Use crosswise row of loops to baste along (sew with a stitch length of 6) and cut along basting line

Preparing Fabric for Sewing STEP 2: Preshrink Fabric  Zig zag or serge the raw ends of the fabric to prevent it from fraying when washed.  Launder the fabric just as you would the item you are going to make with the fabric. (Cleaning instructions are located on end of bolt when purchasing)  Dry the fabric just as you would the finished item.

Preparing Fabric for Sewing STEP 3: Straighten Fabric Grain To straighten or re-align the fabric grains pull fabric along the BIAS to make warp and weft threads (grains) at 90 degree angles. Bias: most stretch Crosswise: medium stretch Lengthwise: least stretch also strongest Warp: Threads that run lengthwise (up and down) Weft: Threads that run crosswise (from selvage to selvage or right to left)

Preparing Fabric for Sewing STEP 4: Press Fabric When you press fabric you need to make sure you can remove the center fold line. If you cannot remove the crease then it will remain in the garment and an alternate cutting layout will be necessary.

Preparing Fabric for Sewing STEP 5: Fold Fabric Fold your fabric according to your pattern guide sheet.

Now that your fabric is ready, how do you get your pattern ready?

Pattern Preparation The pattern guide sheet will show you which pattern pieces you will need and how to layout your pattern pieces on your fabric depending on: ◦ Width of fabric ◦ If the fabric has nap ◦ If the fabric is directional

Pattern Preparation Circle the pattern layout you will be using on the guide sheet Find the pattern pieces you will be using On a multi-sized pattern, find your size and trace the cutting line for your size with a marker. Cut the pattern pieces out. Make adjustments where necessary. ◦ Adjustments make pattern pieces longer, shorter, wider, or more narrow (REMEMBER if you change the front of a garment you must also change the back!). ◦ Adjustments are made along adjustment lines.

Pattern Preparation Iron the pattern pieces. Place the pattern pieces on your material EXACTLY like the pattern layout shows you. ◦ When you layout your pattern pieces watch for place on fold symbols ◦ Make sure all pattern pieces are completely on the fabric ◦ Make sure that pattern pieces are not touching or overlapping. ◦ Make sure that the grain line on your pattern piece is in the same direction as your lengthwise grains.