CLOSURES OR FASTENERS

Methods of fastening or closures used in the garment industry Buttons and button holes Zippers Snaps Hooks & eyes Nylon touch & close fasteners Miscellaneous

Buttons Most buttons are both a decorative feature of the garment and functional closure. But some buttons are strictly functional Concealed button closures and buttons inside double breasted garments to help them hang smoothly Some buttons are strictly decorative Nonfunctional buttons at the wrists of most suits

Types of buttons According to their structure and method of application buttons can be classified into following group Sew through buttons Shank buttons Others

Plastic Metal Natural Composition of buttons Button size The size of the button is measured in “lignes”, with 40 lignes equal to diameter of 1inch. Ex 30ligne Diameter? For irregular button, diameter measured at the widest place.

The number of buttons on a garment depends on the Holding strength Size of the button Fit of the garment Fashion trend Button size for a particular garment is determined by Number of units to be used in the style Appearance desired Some types of garments may use different sizes of same button type

Applying buttons Two important factors Button placement Button attachment A button should be positioned at

Button holes Buttonholes while primarily functional but can also be decorative. Whether decorative or functional they need to be smooth, even and secure. A buttonhole should be long enough so the button can slip easily through the hole without strain or excessive wear. Normally length of the buttonhole should be equal to the diameter of the button plus thickness of the button (if a button is of a round shape one).

Horizontal buttonholes tend to stay buttoned. If the buttonhole is vertical, the button tends to slip out of the buttonhole when horizontal stress is applied. In tight fitting clothing or areas under stress require horizontal buttonholes to keep the garment buttoned. (coats, jackets, neckbands, cuffs, pants plackets, waistbands)

Buttonholes should be spaced the same distance apart as the corresponding buttons (a) to avoid strain or bubbling between buttonholes (b).

Buttonhole types Thread buttonhole (worked) Bound buttonhole Looped buttonhole Slit buttonhole (in leather garments) In-seam or slot (cannot withstand much stress as thread buttonholes) Fused buttonhole

Worked button holes Bound button holes

Bound button holes Looped button holes Piped button holes

ZIPPERS Zippers are a fast, easy means of getting in and out of garments. They have been widely used in ready-to-wear apparel. Because of their somewhat stiff nature, zippers are more appropriate than buttons for flat areas within garments.

Zippers are not well suited i some areas because the stiffness interferes with the intended drape of the fabric and results in zipper hump. Zipper hump is the term for a wavy zipper chain. It detracts from the appearance of the garment and stresses the zipper. Possible reasons for zipper humps installation a zipper in a bias seam stretching the fabric during application zipper tape shrinkage garment shrinkage using a zipper in a fabric that is too soft to support a zipper ( zipper in lightweight knits)

Zippers may: increase the size of an opening to allow the passage of objects join or separate two ends or sides of a single garment attach or detach a separable part of the garment to or from another. decorate an item.

Components of a Zipper Zipper Tape Zipper chain Zipper slider Zipper teeth Tab pull Top and bottom stops (prevent the slider from leaving the chain at either end of the zipper)

1 top tape extension 2 top stop 3 slider 4 tab pull 5 tape 6 chain width 7 bottom stop 8 bottom tape extension 9 single tape width 10 insertion pin 11 retainer box 12 reinforcement film

Zipper chain is the part of the zipper that interlocks when the zipper is closed. A common problem associated with low quality zipper is ratching of zipper chain. This cannot be repaired once it occurs.

Zipper teeth Separate-element zippers are made up of separate teeth. If a zipper teeth breaks off or pulls away from the tape, or if teeth somehow become unmeshed below the element the zipper no longer functions. Continuous -element zippers or coil zippers are made by twisting a continuous strand of monofilament nylon spiral. Continuous-element zippers do not have sharp edges, so they do not snag fabric or scratch the skin as single element zippers sometimes do.

Zipper slider The slider is the portion of the zipper that glides up and down the chain, engaging and disengaging the two halves of the chain. The slider of the zipper has a pull or tab for easy grasping. Most zippers contain some sort of a locking mechanism within the slider which prevents the zipper from unzipping by itself. Auto lock Pin lock Non lock

Zipper Size   The size of a zipper is denoted by the width of the zipper chain in millimeters. For example, a size 7 zipper has a chain 7 millimeters wide. The larger the size of the zipper chain, the larger the number of the zipper. Zipper Length A zipper length is measured distance between top and bottom stops.

Zipper Types The three main types of zippers are (1) Conventional (2) Separating, and (3) Invisible

Conventional Zippers A conventional zipper is by far the most common in ready-to-wear apparel. A conventional zipper has a visible chain; one end, or sometimes both ends, of the zipper remain attached when it is unzipped. One end closed used in dress and trousers Both ends closed pocket mouths, suit cases

Conventional zipper closed at one end Conventional zipper closed at both ends Two way zipper with opposite direction closed Two way zipper with facing direction closed

Separating Zipper Closed (forming fastening) Opened completely Invisible Zipper Zipper is closed Coil constructed

Snaps A snap fastener (also called snap, popper, and press stud) is a pair of interlocking discs commonly used in place of buttons to fasten clothing. A circular lip under one disc fits into a groove on the top of the other, holding them fast until a certain amount of force is applied. Snap fasteners are often used in children's clothing, as they are relatively easy for children to use.

Technically, snap fasteners are mechanical closures consisting of a closure unit and attaching unit. There are two different types of snaps currently on the market post-style prong-style A post-style snap has a shaft that requires a hole to penetrate the fabric. A prong-style snap has teeth that penetrate through the fabric.

Snaps can be used On garments where there is little or no strain at the opening Where smooth flat closure is required In between buttons to prevent openings from gapping Behind decorative buttons when there is no button

cap socket stud post

Composition of snaps Most snaps of either steel, brass or nickel are coated with nickel, zinc or enamel paint. Steel snaps should be properly finished to prevent rusting. Plastic snaps are an alternative to metal snaps and come in both sewn on and mechanically attached styles. The major drawback of plastic snaps is that they are not durable as metal snaps. They melt in contact with hot iron and distort when dried in excessive heat. Snap size The appropriate snap size depends upon the weight of the fabric and the location and the intended job of the snap.

Snap tape   Snap tape can be used to apply a series of snaps. Advantages of snap tape is snaps are evenly spaced securely attached to the tape easier to apply than attaching many snaps individually. Snap tapes few disadvantages colour choices are limited set distance between the snaps on the tape limits design flexibility in snap placement. Another problem is that the tape used to reinforce snaps may shrink during washing and this will result in distorting fabric and causing “snap hump”.

Some of the most common uses for prong-style snaps are • Cardigans, shirts, vests • Lightweight jacket • Fleece garments • Children's wear • Home décor • Uniforms • Sleepwear

Post-style snaps are best used with densely woven or natural/synthetic fabrics. Some of the most common uses for post-style snaps are: • Leather jackets • Heavy outer wear jackets • Denim jackets/jeans • Purses/bags • Boat covers

Hook & Eye A hook-and-eye closure is a clothing fastener that consists of two parts, each sewn to their respective pieces of cloth, one with a small protruding blunt hook, and the other with a small loop (also known as the "eye" or "eyelet") protruding. Hooks and eyes are hidden fasteners. They can be used to hold edges together. Hooks and eyes are available in several sizes and colors to match different fabrics.

Composition Hooks and eyes are usually made of same metals as snaps. Bra hooks for bra backs have two or more sets of eyes for each hook so the wearer can adjust the bra to different circumferences. Uses Most hook & eye use in stress point of the garment openings, such as at the wrist line or neckline. However they can be used to close the entire garment opening.

Hook and Eye

Nylon touch and close fasteners (VELCRO®) This fastener consist of two strips which grip when press together by means of tine hooks on the one strip into tiny loops on the other strip. This is concealed closure and can be used only in areas that lap. For comfort manufactures usually attach the hook portion of the tape to the under lap and the loop portion to the overlap. These available in various widths and gripping strengths and holding power of the tape. A disadvantage of hook & loop tape is that it adds considerable stiffness and bulk to the garment; it is incompatible with soft fabrics because its stiffness interferes with the drape of the garment.

Uses Can be used instead of buttons. Snaps, or hooks and eyes On garment details such as detachable collars, cuffs and trimmings On lab coats and uniforms On belts On garments to facilitate ease in dressing When rapid removal of garment is desired On closures garments made for handicapped

Miscellaneous fastening Frog D-Rings An effective, adjustable closure. Require two rings to complete the closure. Buckles Buckles of various types, materials, shapes and sizes are used as functional fasteners and as decorative details. Cords or ties Lacing Elastics waistline of a shorts Drawstrings

Factors governing the selection of fastening

Functional performance of findings and trims Dimensional Stability Shrinkage Elongation and Elasticity Appearance Retention Abrasion Resistance Colorfastness Crocking Heat Resistance Comfort Ease of Care Safety Strength Resistance to Degradation