Porcelanosa is a Registered Provider with The American Institute of Architects Continuing Education Systems. Credit earned on completion of this program will be reported to CES Records for AIA members. Certificates of Completion for non-AIA members are available on request. This program is registered with the AIA/CES for continuing professional education. As such, it does not include content that may be deemed or construed to be an approval or endorsement by the AIA of any material of construction or any method or manner of handling, using, distributing, or dealing in any material or product. Questions related to specific materials, methods, and services will be addressed at the conclusion of this presentation.

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Learning Objectives At the end of this program, participants will be able to: Gain a general knowledge of characteristics of hardwood flooring. Have a understanding of the relationship between and wood and water. Understand the differences between hardwood flooring constructions Gain a general knowledge of what is considered “environmentally friendly” Hardwood Flooring

Characteristics Naturally warm Workability To the touch Insulates Workability Easy to work with – unlike any other floor covering - can be stained, cut, shaped, refinished Infinite variety No two trees are alike Wide variety of species, grain patterns, grades, stains, etc. - Wood is naturally warm to the touch; wood insulates contrary to ceramic tile which is always cold to the touch. - Easy to work with, can be stained, cut, shaped, refinished, unlike any other floor covering - No two trees, or even pieces from the same tree, are alike. There is a wide variety of species, grain patterns, grades, stains available for a perfect match with any style you choose

Characteristics Strength-to-weight In similar conditions, can be stronger than steel Flexibility Flexibility will allow flooring to adhere perfectly to the subfloor Fire protection Wood chars and burns slowly Does not melt or crumble - - Can be stronger than steel - Even huge trees bend before breaking in the wind, this flexibility will allow the flooring to adhere to the subfloor perfectly - Wood chars and therefore burns slowly, doesn't’t melt or crumble

Hardness Dents and scratches are part of the normal wear and tear of any flooring. No hardwood finish will prevent dents and scratches from happening. No product that will resist dents completely Hardness is not a scratch and dent warranty For example, maple is hard but uniform – therefore will show dents and scratches easily. While, Red Oak is softer but scratches and dents remain hidden by it’s grain pattern To specify species based on hardness is a mistake Buying hardwood floors is a long-term investment and should be based on choosing the species you love Explain that there is nothing used for flooring that will not dent, one of the best characteristic of finishes is flexibility Take Hard Maple and Santos Mahogany for example, both are among the hardest species but will show all scratches and dents because of their uniform graining and color. On the other hand Red Oak is a softer specie but scratches and dents remain well hidden Buying hardwood floors is a long-term investment, what do you want to see for the next 50 years? A wood species that’s hard or a wood species that you love?

Janka Hardness Scale IMPORTANT TO MENTION: Wood Hardness is in NO WAY affected by the flooring manufacturer. This is regulated by nature and is a constant characteristic of each specific species. Hardness will NOT vary. The Janka test is used to determine how much pressure (psi) is necessary for a steel ball (0.444” diameter) to penetrate halfway through a wood sample under specific conditions. Wood Hardness is regulated by nature and is a constant characteristic of each specific species.

Water and Wood: Acclimation Acclimation used to be a valid option when using unfinished flooring which was not packaged as flooring is today In order for acclimation to be a beneficial process, each board would have to be laid separately for at least 48 hours in normal living conditions to allow proper acclimation There are some cases where acclimation can be done, but in most cases it is useless. Since the boards are in boxes, tightly packaged together, acclimation in nearly impossible In the case of new home constructions, acclimation is not a valid option since the humidity level is not equivalent to normal living conditions In conclusion, NEVER in a house being build. Acclimation could be done if solid hardwood flooring is delivered in a dry area where the conditions are always dry, for example, in Palm Springs, to allow shrinkage prior to installation therefore avoiding permanent gaps. Acclimations should never be done where the conditions are always humid since this will greatly complicate installation, for example in New Orleans, Vancouver B.C. In this case, the boards will expand after installation insuring a perfect fit.

Water and Wood: Concrete – Testing for Moisture Calcium-chloride test Measures vapor emission Maximum tolerated: 3 lbs./1000 SF per 24 hours Tramex moisture encounter Measures moisture content Maximum tolerated: 4.5% Readings must be taken from several different areas and kept for future reference

Water and Wood: Concrete – Testing for Moisture The readings only provides the moisture content at the time of installation. Consider the history of the house (ie, location, rain season, sprinkler system, pool, river, etc.) For reference Note readings directly onto concrete with the date Make sure you keep these readings for future reference

Water and Wood: Moisture Barrier Wood subfloor Moisture content (MC) should be within 4% of flooring MC Use of a 15 lbs. felt paper is recommended when nailing down solid wood flooring Concrete subfloor Use of an “one-step” adhesive or sealer adhesive combination which provides a moisture barrier is needed when gluing down engineered wood flooring When installing wood flooring with the floating method a vapor barrier is installed between the concrete and the flooring

Water and Wood: Moisture Retarders (continued) Crawl Spaces Use of a 6 mil polythene sheet is recommended

Water and Wood: Cupping and Crowning – Solid Flooring Cupping occurs when the bottom of the wood flooring remains wetter than the top surface, which dries faster than the bottom. Water spilled on the surface of the wood flooring or rising through the subfloor ends up trapped between the wood flooring and the subfloor. If the floor is sanded before the boards have had a chance to thoroughly dry and flatten out on their own, the top surface will initially be flat, while the bottoms of the boards remain cupped. Crowning occurs when the bottoms of the boards eventually dry and flatten out, leaving the tops of the boards with a convex profile.

Water and Wood: Useful Facts 2/3 of a trees weight is water When wood is kiln dried, moisture content is reduced between 6 – 8% and 9% for Red Oak Milling of lumber Wood can not be milled if moisture content is over 8% If the milling of the boards was done when the wood was too wet they would twist and bow greatly, making milling nearly impossible Dimensional stability (movement once floor is installed) Wood can only expand in width never in length Water and wood don’t mix Maintain relative humidity levels within recommended ranges year round to avoid any problems 35 to 60% depending on the product installed Moisture is a large part of the reason for how wood behaves, both during the milling process and after installation. That is why the kiln drying is so important before milling and storage with proper RH in the warehouse and finally in the home

Water and Wood: Source of Moisture Earth itself Surface water Table water Wet basement Poor irrigation Defective pools Sprinklers Construction materials Paint, plastering… Normal living condition Normal living situation: Human breathing, washing machine, dishwasher, baths, showers, plants, etc. Water will always migrate from earth through concrete and/or walls and then inside the house. “ Water migration towards dryer areas is a normal and perpetual process.”

Engineered Flooring: Types of Veneers Sawn Dry cut, not soak. Result – typically a thicker wear layer, pure solid hardwood look. Rotary Peeled Log is soaked in vat of chemicals for two (2) days and then peeled Thinner wear layer, can have the appearance of a panel Sawn: Firm grain and splice-free surface. Solid hardwood floor look with natural color variation, consistency and beautiful grain of natural species. Perfect square edge. Sliced: Green wood us soaked in a softening solution that yellows the wood. Rougher surface and face grain tear-out. Solid hardwood floor look, but includes spliced veneers. Chipped corners and edge splinters. Rotary peel: Green wood us soaked in a softening solution that yellows the wood. Ultra-thin hardwood veneer unsuited to re-sanding. Plywood look, repetitive patterns. End checks, chipped corners and edge splinters.

Engineered Flooring: Grades of Home Floating installation: Is the standard installation method for Authentic flooring except for: uneven wood subfloor = nail down radiant heat = glue down for better heat transmission. Floating installation should NOT be used for NextStep

Engineered Flooring: Over Radiant Heat Concrete subfloor over radiant heat system must have cured completely before heat is turned on The concrete subfloor must not be dried by any other means than natural air evaporation System should run for 15 days at 2/3 of maximum capacity before installation. 4 days prior to installation set system at 18o C (64o F) After installation increase temperature by 2 degrees per day up to a maximum of 26o C (80o F) Using of a good polyurethane adhesive is imperative Radiant heat is a dry heat therefore maintain relative humidity over 35%

The Environment Wood’s inherent attributes compare favorably to most other materials from a life-cycle analysis (cradle-to-grave) perspective. Besides being renewable, wood is non-toxic, energy-efficient to grow and manufacture, recyclable and biodegradable. Wood products are readily produced without toxic manufacturing by-products. Wood is among the only major building materials whose regrowth yields life-sustaining oxygen and absorbs a greenhouse gas (carbon dioxide).

The Environment All wood comes either from salvaged, reclaimed or recycled sources, or is harvested from forests or plantations. If wood is harvested, the key questions to ask relate to the long-term social and environmental impacts of forest management. Harvested wood is only as environmentally sound as the forest management practices that stand behind it. How can you tell if wood products come from well-managed forests The answer lies in the independent certification of forests and forest management. By setting a high standard for forest management practices—a standard that includes social and economic, as well as environmental, considerations—and a labeling and tracking mechanism for forest products, credible forest certification empowers consumers to use their purchasing power to promote forestry that conserves forests for future generations.

The Environment - Certifications 100% from Well-Managed forests All of the wood in this product comes from forests that are certified well-managed according to the rules of the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC). Mixed Sources This product is certified according to the rules of the Forest Stewardship Council (FSC) for “Mixed Sources.” At least 75% of the wood in this product comes from well-managed forests; the remaining content comes from “neutral” and “controlled” sources—i.e. legal, non-endangered, and non-old growth sources.

The Environment – Certifications (Cont.) Low Formaldehyde Meets German E-1 Standards. No Urea-Formaldehyde

QUESTIONS?? This concludes The American Institute of Architects Continuing Education Systems Program PORCELANOSA USA www.porcelanosa-usa.com