Common product ingredients Chemistry Common product ingredients

Common product ingredients Alcohol Volatile alcohol Alkanolamines Ammonia Glycerin Silicones Volatile organic compounds

Products Alcohol Alkanolamines Ammonia Evaporating, colorless liquid Obtained by the fermentation of starch, sugar & carbohydrates Alkanolamines Substances to neutralize acids or raise the pH of many products Often used in place of ammonia due to less odor Ammonia Colorless gas w/pungent odor Composed of hydrogen & nitrogen Used to raise the pH in perms, haircoloring & lightening substances Raising the pH allows the solution to penetrate the hair Ammonium hydroxide & ammonium thioglycolate are examples of ammonia compounds that are used to raise the pH

Products Glycerin Silicones Sweet, colorless, oily substance formed by the decomposition of oils, fats or fatty acids Used as a solvent & moisturizer in skin & body creams Silicones Special type of oil used in hair conditioners & as water resistant lubricant for the skin Less greasy & form a ‘breathable’ film that does not cause comedones (blackheads)

Products Volatile organic compounds VOCs Two or more elements combined chemically (compounds) that contain carbon (organic) & evaporate very quickly (volatile) Most common used in hairsprays is SD alcohol Most people are familiar w/ volatile such as Isopropyl alcohol Rubbing alcohol Ethyl alcohol Alcoholic beverages Nonvolatile oils Fatty alcohols Cetyl alcohol Cetearyl alcohol Used in conditioners

Potential Hydrogen pH is often discussed with regard to salon products, it is often one of the least understood properties Understanding what pH is and how it affects the skin and hair is essential to understanding all chemical services

Potential Hydrogen “parts hydrogen “ or “ potential hydrogen “ pH originated from the French term pouvoir hydrogen or “hydrogen power” Means the relative degree of acidity & alkalinity of a substance Small p represents a quantity Capital H represents the hydrogen ion H+ pH represents the quantity of hydrogen ions

Potential Hydrogen pH scale is a logarithmic scale This means that in a pH scale, a change of one whole number represents a tenfold change in pH A pH of 8 is 10 times more alkaline than a pH of 7 A change of two whole numbers indicates a change of 10 times 10, or a one hundredfold change A pH of 9 is 100 times more alkaline than a pH of 7 Pure water, w/ a pH of 7, is 100 times more alkaline than a pH of 5, pure water is 100 times more alkaline than your hair and skin, even though it has a neutral pH. Pure water can cause the hair to swell by as much as 20%

Acids & alkalis Acids Alkalis Owe their chemical reactivity to the hydrogen ion (H+) pH below 7.0 Taste sour Turn litmus paper from blue to red Contract & harden the hair Such as thioglycolic acid used in permanent waving Alkalis Owe their chemical reactivity to the hydroxide (OH -) ion Terms alkali & base are interchangeable pH above 7.0 Taste bitter Turn litmus paper from red to blue Feel slippery & soapy on the skin Soften & swell the hair Such as chemical drain cleaners & chemical hair relaxers

Acid-alkali neutralization reactions Pure water (HO2O) Naturally ionizes to create hydrogen (H+) ions & hydroxide ions (OH-) When acids (H+) & alkalis (OH-) are mixed together in equal proportions They neutralize each other to form water (H20) Neutralizing shampoos & normalizing lotions used to neutralize hydroxide hair relaxers work by creating an acid-alkali neutralization reaction

Oxidation-Reduction (Redox) Reactions Oxidation-reduction (redox) reactions are responsible for the chemical changes created by Haircolors Hair lighteners Permanent wave solutions Neutralizer Chemical services would not be possible without oxidation-reduction (redox) reactions

Oxidation reactions Chemical reaction Combustion Combines an element or compound w/ oxygen to produce an oxide When oxygen is added to a substance, some heat is almost always produced Chemical reactions that are characterized by or formed w/ the giving off of heat are called exothermic Slow oxidation takes place in oxidation perms neutralizers Combustion Rapid oxidation of any substance accompanied by the production of heat & light Lighting a match – no fire w/out oxygen

Reduction reactions Oxidized Reduced Reduction Oxidizing agent When a substance is combined w/oxygen Reduced When oxygen is subtracted from a substance Reduction Chemical reaction Oxidizing agent Releases oxygen Hydrogen peroxide example

Redox reactions Redox Permanent waving is an example of redox reaction Contraction for reduction-oxidation Oxidation & reduction always occur at the same time Permanent waving is an example of redox reaction Breaks certain bonds in the hair through a reduction reaction that adds hydrogen atoms to the hair Hair is reduced and the perm solution is oxidized Neutralizer then oxidizes the hair by removing the hydrogen atoms that were previously added by the perm solution When hair is oxidized, the neutralizer is reduced Oxidation is the result of either the addition of oxygen or the loss of hydrogen Reduction is the result of either the loss of oxygen or the addition of hydrogen

Summary We have learned common product ingredients related in perming The importance of a pH scale Difference of oxidation & reduction reactions