Chapter 8 Hair Analysis Hair analysis is performed by observation, uses the senses of sight, touch, hearing and smell. The four most important factors to consider are texture, porosity, elasticity and density. Other factors include natural growth pattern and degree of oiliness or dryness

Hair Texture Thickness or diameter of the individual hair strand ( compare a thin rope to a thick rope or a piece of thread to a piece of yarn ) Coarse – largest diameter; stronger than fine hair; usually requires more processing time & may be resistant to processing

Hair Texture Medium – most common and is considered normal; does not pose any special problems. It is thinner than coarse hair and thicker than fine hair Fine – smallest diameter & is more fragile; easier to process; more susceptible to damage

Hair Density Measures the number of individual hair strands on one square inch of the scalp Low – thin hair Medium – average or normal High – dense or thick hair Average – 2200 hairs/square inch, average head of hair contains about 100,000 individual hairs strands. Number varies by hair color

Hair Density Blonde – 140,000 hairs Brown – 110,000 hairs Black – 108,000 hairs Red – 80,000 hairs

Porosity Ability of the hair to absorb moisture; directly related to condition of the cuticle layer Low porosity – considered resistant; require more alkalinity in solutions Average porosity – normal hair; chemical services will normally process as expected High porosity – overly porous; often the result of over-processing; is damaged, dry, fragile, & brittle. Chemical services require less alkaline solutions w/a lower pH to prevent additional over processing

Elasticity The ability of the hair to stretch & return to its original length without breaking. It indicates the strength of the side bonds that hold the hair’s individual fibers in place Normal elasticity – will stretch up to 50% of its original length when wet Low elasticity – hair is brittle & breaks easily; will not hold a curl; the result of weak side bonds, probably as a result of over-procecssing

Growth patterns Hair stream Whorl Cowlick Hair flowing in the same direction; result of follicles sloping in the same direction. Two streams flowing in opposite directions create a natural part Whorl Hair that forms a circular pattern, as on the crown Cowlick A tuft of hair that stands straight up; can be found anywhere but are more noticeable on the hairline

Dry hair & scalp Caused by inactive sebaceous glands; aggravated by dry winter or desert climate Appears dull, dry, lifeless Avoid frequent shampooing Also avoid strong soaps, detergents, or products w/high alcohol content

Oily hair & scalp Caused by overactive sebaceous glands; characterized by greasy building on scalp & oily coating on hair Clarifying shampoos help Well-balanced diet Exercise Regular, frequent shampooing Good personal hygiene. Avoid strong soaps, detergents, or products w/high content

Summary In performing a hair analysis we use sight, touch, hearing and smell Texture, porosity, elasticity & density are considered the most important factors in the analysis of hair Next lesson – hair growth