«Yves Saint Laurent - Style & Design Legacy»

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Presentation transcript:

«Yves Saint Laurent - Style & Design Legacy»

«Les modes passent le style est éternel - Fashions pass, style is eternal»

Yves Saint Laurent - style A style based on strong recognisable signs Working with codes is in the heart of actual fashion

The inventor of the modern language of fashion The modern femininity The modern wardrobe The notion of individualism The interaction between creation and street style

To underline the complexity of modern femininity Women want to express the various aspects of their femininity: seduction and an active role in society The YSL answer is Ambiguity with the mixing of genders He has invented the « In Between Spirit » : androgyny, the mix of bourgeois and popular style, the masculine-feminine style mix, the sport and urban attitude mix …

Ambiguity Strong as a Man Charming as a Woman Loulou de la Falaise, 1967

AMBIGUITY: To show and to hide at the same time Fall-Winter 1970 Spring-Summer 1968

Veruschka, photo of Franco ANDROGYNY Yves Saint Laurent and his sister. Desert tunique inspired by the Africa Corps uniform. Veruschka, photo of Franco Rubartelli. Vogue, 1968

Betty Catroux, Loulou de la Falaise 1969

MASCULINITY-FEMININITY Spring-Summer 1978 Spring-Summer 1967

SMOCKING A NEW PROPOSAL FOR THE EVENING Fall-Winter 1968 Fall-Winter 1966 Fall-Winter 1996

Functional outfits and uniforms in an elegant translation: Urban navy suit, sport outfit for evening, urban short pants… Spring-Summer 1971 Spring-Summer 1962 Fall-Winter 1976

Fashion and Society Pierre Bergé: "He turned fashion on its head, making it socially relevant rather than merely aesthetic".

The influence of Pop Culture To the WWD Magazine, Yves Saint Laurent said in 1965 : "I am fed up doing dresses for blasé rich women”. « J’en avait marre de faire des robes pour des milliardaires blasées » Hippie shock

A style that helps to define your own personality Loulou de la Falaise, hippie chic in 1972 Talitha Getty, Marrakech

BEING ELEGANT AND COOL AT THE SAME TIME Catherine Deneuve Collection Pop, homage to Tom Wesselmann Winter 1966

An unconventional way of doing Haute Couture 26 September 1966: Launch of Yves Saint Laurent Rive Gauche, 21 rue de Tournon-Paris

SHOCKING COLORS Fall-Winter 1992 Fall-Winter 2000

NO LITERAL REFERENCES – CROSS REFERENCES IN IMAGINARY TRAVELS Collection Ballets Russes, july 1976

Yves Saint Laurent : A Master for the Fashion World The impossible legacy ? The impossible dream: to become as successful as YSL Every designer has his stylistic heritage in mind as a reference

Albert Elbaz for Lanvin For Summer 2009: « What we have to do now is make life easier for women ». He was named AD for Rive Gauche in 1999: "I don't want to do Alber Elbaz for Yves Saint Laurent . I want to do Saint Laurent by Alber Elbaz ». His inspiration: dress up an active woman with trousers.

Albert Elbaz for Lanvin. Summer 2009

MIX MASCULINITY-FEMININITY Yohji Yamamoto Fall-Winter 2008 Bruno Pieters

Détournements - Hijackings Sport The Smoking Underdressed and overdressed

JEAN PAUL GAULTIER Summer 2009 Summer 2008

COOL & SOPHISTICATED ATTITUDES Hermès by Jean Paul Gaultier. Fall-Winter 2008

Balenciaga by Nicolas Ghesquière Winter 2007 Winter 2008 Winter 2005

Dries Van Noten Summer 2009

Givenchy by Riccardo Tisci Winter 2008 Winter 2007

Marc Jacobs Resort 2009 Fall-Winter 2007 Resort 2009

Hybridization Exotism mix Color mix

Jean Paul Gaultier Summer 2008

John Galliano Summer 2009 Yves Saint Laurent said that John Galliano is interesting «even he is doing things that I can’t admit»

Marc Jacobs Resort 2009 Summer 2009 Resort 2009

YVES SAINT LAURENT: “Elegance is being noticed while wearing a black dress. It’s being at ease. It’s the attitude. It is not wrinkles or white hair that age woman, it is her gestures.”