Facials Chapter 23 – 12’

Good skin Makes a big difference in the way skin looks Makes a difference in the way a person feels about their appearance

Introduction Oily skin Dry skin Aging skin Cleaner Healthier Look Feel more moist & supple Aging skin Look smoother Firmer Less wrinkled

Serve as an oasis in a busy day Leaving client feeling refreshed Boost a person’s self-esteem and confidence Change the way a person “faces” the world Valuable service for clients who have skin problems which cause anxiety “Focus on” page 710

Skin Analysis and Consultation Skin analysis determines Skin type Condition of skin Type of treatment needed Consultation - Ask client questions Health History Advise on home care products and treatments

Contraindication A condition that requires avoiding certain treatments, procedures or products to prevent undesirable or negative side effects

Health screening form page 711 – 712 Focus on page 713 Caution box page 713 Health screening form page 711 – 712 List of information page 715 Focus on page 713 List of contraindications page 714 Caution box page 715 Contraindications Grid/Table 23-1 page 714

Treatment Records Observations Contraindications Secured filing cabinet Each visit treatments observations purchases

Analysis Procedure Carefully read health screening form Discuss any questions Client change into smock and remove jewelry – lock in safe place Cosmetologist/esthetician remove own jewelry Drape client

Recline into chair Cleanse the face Cover eyes Look under magnifying lamp

Determining Skin Type Skin type - determined by how oily or dry Hereditary Cannot be permanently changed with treatments Skin conditions – characteristics of the skin associated with a particular skin type

Look for presence or absence of visible pores Amount sebum produced determines size of pores Hereditary Obvious pores – oily Lack of visible pores - dry

Skin Types Alipidic – “lack of lipids” Dry skin Does not produce enough sebum to prevent evaporation of cell moisture Dehydration indicates lack of moisture Flaky or dry looking Small fine lines and wrinkles Any skin type Feel itchy or tight

Open comedones (blackheads) Oily skin Produces too much sebum Large pores Open comedones (blackheads) Mixture of solidified sebum and dead cell build up Closed comedones Small bumps beneath skin surface Solidified sebum and dead cell buildup Table 23 – 2 page 716

Difference between open & closed comedones Size of follicle opening Ostium Open comedone has large ostium Closed comedone has small ostium

Acne Pimples in oily areas Disorder – follicle becomes clogged Infection of the follicle with redness and inflammation Caution box – page 717

Acne bacteria anaerobic – cannot survive in the presence of oxygen Survive from breaking down sebum into fatty acids Acne papules – red pimples that do not have a pus head Pustules – pimples with a pus head Pus – fluid made up of dead white blood cells

Analysis of the Skin Conditions are generally treatable Dehydration Flaky areas Skin wrinkles easily on the surface Lack of care Improper or overdrying skin care products Sun exposure

Treat by Using hydrators Alipidic skin – treatments heavier in texture Oilier skin – treatments are lighter weight

Hyperpigmentation Dark blotches of color Sun exposure or hormone imbalances Mild exfoliation Home care products Daily use of sunscreen Avoidance of sun exposure

Sensitive skin Thin, red-pink color Turn red easily Easily inflamed Avoid strong cleansers Fragranced products Strong exfoliants

Treat with gentle products & treatments Rosacea – chronic hereditary disorder indicated by constant or frequent blushing Dilated capillaries present – telangiectasis or couperose Considered a medical disorder - dermatologist Treat with gentle products & treatments Avoid treatments that release heat or stimulate the skin

Aging skin Loss of elasticity Skin tends to sag around eyes and jawline Treatments hydrate and exfoliate

Sun-damaged skin Chronically & frequently exposed over lifetime Many areas of hyperpigmentation Wrinkled areas, sagging skin – damage to elastic fibers Looks older

Skin Care Products Cleansing Products 2 types: To clean the skin surface and remove makeup 2 types: Milks Foaming

Face wash – detergent type foaming cleanser Neutral or slightly acidic pH Foaming action of bar soap Rinses off completely – leaving skin feeling fresh, but slightly tight

Oily – combination oily skin type Cuts excessive amounts of oil For acne-prone skin – an antimicrobial agent is used to kill bacteria Danger of face wash is that it can over dry the skin

Cleansing Lotion Formulated to remove makeup and soil Water-based emulsion

Cleansing Milks Non-foaming Dry and sensitive skin Must be removed with water (sponge, cloth etc,)

Foaming Cleansers Contain surfactants (detergents) Combination and oiler skin types Used quickly/easily in shower Some have antibacterial ingredients

Toners Astringents Fresheners Rebalance pH Ingredients to help soothe or hydrate May contain and exfoliants to remove dead cell buildup Stronger products Higher alcohol content Used for oilier type skin Alcohol-free –sprayed onto face

Exfoliants Removal of dead cells from skin Skin appears smoother and clearer Help clear skin of clogged pores Improve appearance of: Wrinkles Aging Hyperpigmentation

Cosmetologists – remove dead cells from Stratum Corneum Dermatologists/Surgeons – deeper, surgical-level- peels Caution Box page 719

Mechanical exfoliants – products used to physically remove dead cell buildup Gommages - roll-off masks – peeling creams that are rubbed off Microdermabrasion scrubs- contain aluminum oxide crystals, with other granular scrubs (mechanical exfoliants)

Chemical Exfoliants Contain chemicals the loosen or dissolve dead cell buildup Alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) – gentle naturally occurring acids that remove dead cell by dissolving the bonds and intercellular cement between cells

As dead cells are removed over time: Wrinkles appear less deep Skin discoloration may fade Clogged pores are loosened and reduced New clogs are prevented Skin is smoother More hydrated

AHA Peels 20% – 30% of AHA Client must use a 10% AHA product at home for at least 2 weeks before salon peel! AND using daily facial sunscreen products

Enzyme Peels Keratolytic enzymes Protein-dissolving agents Dissolve the keratin protein in the surface cells of the skin Made from plant-extracted enzymes from papaya or pineapples or beef by-products

2 Types of Enzyme Peels Cream-type enzyme peels (gommage) – contain papaya Applied – dried – rolled off skin Powdered enzyme peel – mixed with water – applied – removed with towels Does not dry the skin Used with a steamer

Proper Exfoliation may improve skin’s appearance Reduces clogged pores and skin oiliness Promotes skin smoothness Increases moisture content & hydration Reduces hyperpigmentation Decreases uneven skin color Eliminates/softens wrinkles and fine lines Increases elasticity

Proper exfoliation speeds up cell turnover Allows for deeper penetration of treatment creams & serums Makeup applies more evenly Caution boxes page 720

Moisturizers Products that help increase moisture content of skin surface Help diminish fine lines & wrinkles Mixtures Humectants/hydrators Water-binding agents – ingredients that attract water Emollients – oily/fatty ingredients that prevent moisture from leaving the skin

Moisturizers – oily skin Lotion form Less emollients Moisturizers – dry skin Heavier cream More emollients Sensitive skin – soothing agents Aging skin – AHA Sunscreen

Cautions boxes – page 721

Sunscreens & Day Protection Products Shielding skin from sun exposure is the most important habit to benefit the skin Cumulative sun exposure causes the majority of skin cancers and prematurely ages the skin

Use daily moisturizers that contain broad-spectrum sunscreen – protects against UVA & UVB SPF of 15 or higher SPF measures how long someone can be exposed to the sun without burning

Combination skin – lotions Oily skin – fluids Dry skin - creams

Night treatments More intense Design to treat specific skin problems Heavier than day use products Higher levels of conditioning ingredients

Serums Concentrated products Contain higher concentrations of ingredients designed to penetrate skin and treat various conditions Home use Applied under moisturizer/sunscreen Ampules – individual doses sealed in a vial

Massage Creams Lubricants to make the skin slippery during massage Contain oils or petrolatum Thoroughly remove during a facial – prevents other products from penetrating Biggest benefit of massage is that it increases product absorption – increases conditioning effect of treatment products

Masks Masques Concentrated treatment products Composed of minerals clays Moisturizing agents Skin softeners Aromatherapy oils Botanical extracts

Other ingredients to cleanse Exfoliate Tighten Tone Hydrate Nourish

Clay-based masks Oil-absorbing cleansing masks Have an exfoliating & astringent effects Oily & combination skin Makes large pores temporarily appear smaller soothing Antibacterial ingredients

Cream masks Contain oils, emollients & humectants Strong moisturizing effect Dry skin

Gel masks Sensitive or dehydrated skin Do not dry hard Contain hydrators & soothing agents Help plump surface cells Makes the skin look more supple & hydrated

Alginate masks Seaweed based Powder form mixed with water or serums Dry to a rubberized texture Treatment Cream – facilitates change in skin’s appearance Or serum applied under mask Mask forms a seal that helps skin’s absorption of serum or treatment cream Used only in salons

Paraffin Wax Masks Melted at little more than body temperature Cools to a candle-like texture Applied over treatment cream & gauze Eye pads may be applied to prevent wax from getting on eyebrows & lashes

Modelage masks Special crystals of gypsum – a plaster-like ingredient Used with a treatment cream and gauze Mixed with cold water Apply ¼’ thick layer hardens

Chemical reaction occurs Gradual increase to temperature of 105º Gradually cools down Setting time about 20 minutes Follow mfg. directions

Heat increases blood circulation Beneficial for dry, mature skin – looks dull & lifeless Do not use on sensitive, capillary problems, oily skin, blemishes Can be heavy on face Do not apply on lower neck Never use on clients with claustrophobia

Use of Gauze Thin open-meshed fabric of loosely woven cotton Holds ingredients onto face & keep from sticking to hairs on face

Client Consultation Designate a quiet area Write down all necessary information Bulleted list pages 574 - 575 Record Date Type of service and/or treatment performed Products used Purchased products

Recommend services and products to benefit client Client will be disappointed in no recommendations given They will go elsewhere Best results achieved if home care regime is followed Perform a thorough analysis of client’s skin

Facial Massage Massage- FYI Box page 577 Focus on – page 726 Manual or mechanical manipulation of the body by rubbing, gently pinching, kneading, tapping, and other movements to increase metabolism and circulation, promote absorption, and relieve pain. FYI Box page 577 Focus on – page 726

Wrists and fingers flexible Palms firm and warm Massage requires: Basic knowledge of anatomy and physiology Firm sure touch Flexible hands Quiet temperament Self-control Keep hands soft File and shape nails Wrists and fingers flexible Palms firm and warm

Basic Massage Manipulations Each manipulation applied in a certain way to achieve a certain end (result) Impact of treatment: Amount of pressure Direction of movement Duration of manipulation Focus 0n & FYI – page 726

Massaging incorrectly Direction of movement Insertion to the origin Insertion Portion of the muscle at the more moveable attachment Origin Portion of the muscle at the fixed attachment Massaging incorrectly Loss of resiliency Sagging of skin and muscles

Effleurage Light continuous stroking movement Fingers – digital – small surfaces Palms – palmar – large surfaces Slow rhythmic No pressure Every massage begin and end Soothing and relaxing effects

Used on: Forehead face Scalp Back Shoulder Neck Chest Arms Hands

Hold hand loosely Keep wrists and fingers flexible Curve fingers slightly Cushions of fingers touching skin

Petrissage Kneading movement Lifting, squeezing and pressing tissue Light, firm pressure Deeper stimulation to muscles, nerves and glands Improves circulation

Limited to back, shoulders, and arms Used on cheeks/jawline with light pinching movements Pressure light but firm Movements must by rhythmic – never jerky

Fulling Tissue grasped firmly Lifted Spread out

Friction Deep rubbing movement Apply pressure with fingers/palm while moving over an underlying structure Significant benefit circulation Glandular activity Scalp, arms, hands – heavier movements Face and neck – lighter circular movements

Chucking Rolling Wringing Grasping flesh firmly in one hand Move hand up and down along bone Rolling Pressing and twisting tissues in a fast back and forth movement Wringing Hands placed on both sides of arm/leg Working downward Twisting motion against bones in the opposite direction

Tapotement/Percussion Short quick tapping, slapping and hacking movements Most stimulating Applied with care and discretion Tone muscles Impart a healthy glow to area being massaged

Facial Slapping Light digital tapping Fingers must be flexible to create an even force over treated area Slapping Wrists flexible Light, firm, rapid slapping One hand follows the other Lift flesh slightly

Hacking and slapping used on: Chopping movements Edges of hands Move alternately in fast, light, firm movements Hacking and slapping used on: Back, shoulders, arms, legs

Vibration Rapid shaking of the body part Balls of fingers pressed firmly on point of application Rapid muscular contraction Highly relaxing Applied over nerves and end of massage Stimulate blood circulation Increase muscle tone

Physiological Effects of Massage Thorough knowledge of structures involved Muscles Nerves Connective tissue Blood vessels FYI - page 728

Every muscle has a motor point Point on the skin over the muscle where pressure or stimulation will cause contraction of the muscle Location of motor points varies from person to person Differences in body structure

Relaxation is achieved Light, firm, slow rhythmic movements or Very slow, light hand vibrations over motor points for a short time or Pause briefly over motor points

Massage applied directly or indirectly influences the structures and functions of the body Immediate effects are first noticed on the skin

Area being treated shows increased: Circulation Secretion Nutrition Excretion Benefits List page 729

Frequency of massage depends: Condition of skin or scalp Age of the client Condition being treated General rule Weekly massage Accompanied by proper home care

Facial Manipulations Even tempo/rhythm - relaxation Do not remove hands from area being treated Feather off Feather back on State Regulatory Alert - page 732

Facial Treatments Enjoyable and relaxing service Restful, stimulating experience Regular facials Noticeable improvement in skin tone Texture Appearance

Preservative Corrective Maintains health of skin Correct skin conditions

Treatments: Increase circulation Activate glandular activity Relax nerves Maintain muscle tone Strengthen weak muscle tissues

Guidelines for facial treatments Page 737 Inspect skin - Page 738 Analysis determines: What products to use Areas needing special attention How much pressure to use What equipment to use

Special Problems Dry Skin Oily Skin Insufficient flow of sebum Infra-red ray lights – (3 - 5 minutes) Milia - whiteheads Oily Skin Comedones – blackheads - hardened masses of sebum formed in ducts of sebaceous glands

Special notes for acne-prone skin Disorder of the sebaceous glands Medical treatment Work with doctor/dermatologist Wear gloves – contains infectious matter

Acne medical care Follow physician’s instructions for type and frequency of facials Help with extraction treatments Assist in choosing proper home care products and make-up Help client understand how to coordinate with home skin care program

Environmental factors Aggravated by: Hereditary Environmental factors Aggravated by: Emotional stress Faulty diet

Diet for Acne Foods high in: - tend to worsen condition Recommended: Fat Starches sugars Recommended: Well balanced diet Drinking plenty of water Healthful personal hygiene

Special Notes for Acne-Prone Skin Unresponsive or severe cases – medical attention Work with dermatologist Proper home care products and makeup Coordinate medications home care program Topical medications - sensitive skin more reactive

Consultation and Home Care Most important factor in successful skin care program Explain proper home care after first treatment Focus –On pp. 739

Procedures Basic facial – 741 - 745 Dry Skin – 746 – 747 Caution box page 594 Dry Skin – 746 – 747 Service tip – pp. 747

Acne prone skin – pages 751 - 752 Oily skin Pages 748 - 750 Caution Box & Service Tips - 750 Acne prone skin – pages 751 - 752

Aromatherapy Therapeutic use of plant aromas for beauty and health treatment Improves efficacy of many skin care preparations

Benefits a person’s physical Emotional Mental Spiritual well-being

Cinnamon candle in winter – warm cozy Use oils lightly – tend to be overpowering Caution box page 740