FASH 15 textiles manufactured regenerated fibers

produced from naturally occurring polymers these polymers do not occur naturally as fibers— processing is needed starting material is cellulose & protein—majority used in apparel, interiors and technical products are cellulosic: rayon lyocell acetate

cellulosic regenerated fibers—rayon the first—many regeneration processes were developed commercial production of viscose rayon began in 1910 in the US—sold a ‘artificial silk’ until rayon was adopted in 1924 produced as a filament until discovered that scraps could be used as staple fibers…now filament tow Cupra rayon—cuprammonium Viscose rayon—regular rayon (weaker than HWM) High-wet-modulus (HWM) rayon— aka HP (high performance), polynosic, or modal

cellulosic regenerated fibers—rayon production: wet spinning most common method purified cellulose is chemically converted to a viscose solution forced through spinnerets into a bath returned to solid 100% cellulose filaments HWM process maximizes chain length & fibril structure

cellulosic regenerated fibers—rayon physical structure: regular viscose characterized by striations (lengthwise lines) cross section—serrated or indented circular shape (HWM & cupra are more circular) serrated shape is an advantage in dyeing— increases fiber’s surface area filament— denier staple & tow— denier micro rayon fibers also available

cellulosic regenerated fibers—rayon properties—aesthetics: made to resemble cotton, linen, wool & silk can be engineered with characteristics similar to other fibers in a blend has an attractive, soft, fluid drape sizing may be added to increase body and hand Cupra has more silklike hand & luster, can be found in smaller deniers

cellulosic regenerated fibers—rayon properties—durability: regular rayon is a weak fiber—loses about 50% of strength when wet will stretch slightly before breaking—lowest elastic recovery of any fiber, will not return to shape weakness comes from amorphous areas HWM is more crystalline & oriented so relatively strong cupra not as strong as HWM, stronger than viscose

cellulosic regenerated fibers—rayon environmental concerns/sustainability: significant processing is involved to produce useable fiber clear cutting may be an issue processing wood pulp uses large quantities of acid & other chemical (water & air pollutioni) cupra rayon no longer produced in US—could not meet minimum air & water quality reqs more susatinable alternatives include lyocell & rayon from managed forests biodegradable—current landfill practices?

cellulosic regenerated fibers—rayon uses: mostly used in woven fabrics—especially apparel and interior drapery & upholstery also used in nonwoven fabrics for absorbency technical wipes medical supplies—bandages, diapers, sanitary napkins & tampons Cuprammonium rayon used in dialysis machines to filter waster products from blood

cellulosic regenerated fibers—rayon types & kinds: only way to determine specific type of rayon is by the trade name HWM solution-dyed modified cross-section intermediate- & high- tenacity optically brightened high absorbency hollow microfibers Visil —contains silica, flame-retardant

cellulosic regenerated fibers—lyocell created in part (1990s) due to environmental concern of rayon production production: wet-spun: polymer dissolved in liquid and spun in a weak bath of amine oxide—low toxicity, low skin irritation; solvent recovered, purified & recycled physical structure: more rounded cross section & smoother longitudinal appearance than rayon

cellulosic regenerated fibers— lyocell properties aesthetics: luster, length & diameter can be changed depending upon end use processed to produce a range of surface effects offers unusual combinations of strength, opacity, absorbency durability: performs more like cotton than rayon strongest of cellulosic fibers unique combination of soft hand & good durability, produces comfortable, long-lasting textiles for apparel & interiors

cellulosic regenerated fibers— lyocell properties comfort: soft, smooth fiber with few static problems ideal for apparel that contacts skin thermal retention is poor appearance retention: resiliency is moderate—wrinkles but not as severely as rayon shrinks, but not progressively may have problems with fuzziness or piling care either gently machine-washable or dry cleaned sensitive to acids; resistant to mild alkalis sensitive to mildew & some insects

cellulosic regenerated fibers—lyocell environmental concerns/sustainability: produced from wood pulp—managed forests/fast-growing eucalyptus trees recovers & reprocesses 99.5% of solvent bath chemicals significantly less hazardous to environment than those used for viscose rayon biodegradable—not recycled makes extensive use of water, dyes & finishing chemicals dry cleaning solvents present additional environmental hazards

cellulosic regenerated fibers—lyocell uses: professional business wear leotards hosiery casual wear upholstery window-treatment fabrics filters printers’ blankets specialty papers medical dressings used in blends with wool, cotton & other MF used in conveyer belts for strength & softness

cellulosic regenerated fibers—lyocell types & kinds: because it is relatively new, fewer modification available—more modifications expected

cellulosic regenerated fibers—acetate originated in Europe as varnish for airplane wings in 1924 became 2 nd MF to be produced in US could not be dyed with existing dyes—disperse dyes created specifically for acetate/triacetate— certain of these change color when exposed to atmospheric pollutants 1 st thermoplastic (heat sensitive) fiber—melt under hot iron—consumers unaccustomed to this

cellulosic regenerated fibers—acetate production: 1.purified cellulose from wood pulp or cotton linters 2.mixed with glacial acetic acid; acetic anhydride & a catalyst 3.aged 20 hours—partial hydrolysis occurs 4.precipitated as acid-resin flakes 5.flakes dissolved in acetone 6.solution is filtered 7.spinning solution extruded in column of warm air; solvent recovered 8.filaments stretched and wound onto beams, cones or bobbins ready for use

cellulosic regenerated fibers—acetate production:

cellulosic regenerated fibers—acetate physical structure: available as staple or filament—filament more silk-like lobular or flower petal shaped cross section— varied according to use; flat filaments give glitter

cellulosic regenerated fibers— acetate properties: aesthetics: widely used in satins, brocades & taffetas—luster, body, & drape more important than durability or ease of care durability: weak fiber—loses some strength when wet has no other compensating factors poor resistance to abrasion—may be blended with nylon to increase strength

cellulosic regenerated fibers— acetate properties: comfort: smooth & slick—great for linings subject to static buildup extremely soft with no allergenic potential poor thermal retention appearance retention: not very resilient—wrinkle during use wrinkles from washing extremely difficult to remove weaker when wet—shrinks with high heat areas of stress do not recover well

cellulosic regenerated fibers— acetate properties: care: dry cleaned unless care label says differently resistant to weak acids & alkalis can be bleached soluble in acetone cannot be heat set at high enough temp thermoplastic & feels sticky at low ironing temperature better sunlight resistance than silk or nylon resistant to moths, mildew & bacteria

cellulosic regenerated fibers—acetate environmental concerns/sustainability: produced from cellulose & requires significant processing—wood pulp concerns dry-spun so solvent easier to recover & reuse less likely to degrade than rayon not recycled usually dyed with disperse dyes—require special chemical carriers dry cleaning solvents an issue

cellulosic regenerated fibers—acetate uses: lining fabrics—must be carefully selected based on durability of garment drapery—sunlight resistance and assortment of colors formalwear—moire taffeta, satin & brocade bedspreads, quilts, home sewing fabrics, ribbons, cigarette filters, personal hygiene products, fiberfill & filters

cellulosic regenerated fibers—acetate types & kinds: solution-dyed flame-retardant sunlight resistant fiberfill textured filament modified cross section antibacterial thick-and-thin slublike filament

cellulosic regenerated fibers—bamboo fiber from woody bamboo grass—China promoted as sustainable fiber—crowds out weeds & few insect pests thus grown with no chemicals two types: bast (stems) & regenerated from pulp (like rayon)—most common soft hand, silky texture, durable, good breathability, wicks well & dyes well

cellulosic regenerated fibers—seaweed fiber marine plant fiber produced using process similar to lyocell— seaweed added to lyocell spinning solution manufacturers claim minerals & vitamins absorbed through skin of wearer soft, breathable, comfortable next to skin SeaCell: active & pure —silver as antimicrobial agent for bras, underwear, sportswear, workwear, carpets, bedding, towels, craft yarn, nonwovens & hygiene products

other regenerated fibers Alginate fibers —short fibers used for wound dressing; protect while allow healing to occur Chitosan —exoskeletons of crustaceans; medical applications Azlon —most often made from soybean waste from tofu manufacturing; durable, soft hand, wonderful drape, good colorfastness, excellent absorbency, good comfort & thermal retention Silk Latte & Milkofil —made from casein (protein in milk); soft hand & take dye well, not as durable as soy fiber

manufactured regenerated fibers participation activity: …dig through the box of interior fabric samples—find one with some content that we have discussed today …on a sheet of paper, discuss the following topics according to the fabric sample you have selected: How was this fiber generated? What are the pros of using this fiber/fabric in an interior? What are the cons of using this fiber/fabric in an interior? What sustainability issues are associated with this fiber/fabric? …be sure to attach the fabric sample with your written discussion