EU Eco-label Best Practice Textiles Andreas Scherlofsky Energon GmbH

This presentation Textile Situation Basic documents and Info materials Criteria Cooperation strategy How to use the label successfully The Lenzing example

European Textile/Clothing Industry Longstanding tradition and leadership still one of Europe’s major industrial sectors, first major player in textile exports and third in clothing highly specialised technology and a myriad of different consumer and industrial products EUR 215 bio. annual turnover, 2,6 mio. Total workforce, in EU: companies (95% SMEs) Leading in fashion and creativity (labor-intensive!) Source: Euratex on CIRFS data, 2001

Challanges Labor cost disadvantages compared to low-wage countries Trade barriers in certain important export markets Growing shortage of qualified human resources Strict environmental and safety legislation

Strategy: Make sustainability a USP In a world with limited resources and limited resistance of nature economy needs to become more and more sustainable (env., soc., econ.). Real prices and social wages which include indirect environ-mental and health costs need communication and argu- mentation to being accepted costs, taxes eco-social costs real price it’s just like with quality

Communication ► Acceptance If consumers know why and if they are sure of getting real eco-quality they are willing to pay higher prices not all consumers but enough, and not any price but i.e. 10% more

Self awarding Ecolabels with independent audits Tests Textile Ecolabels and similar (selected) Environmental Code of practice Ecolabel Otto (mail order firm?) soft floor covering, upholstered furniture Textiles, skins and leather OEKO-TEX Consumer organisations

EU Ecolabel and OEKO-TEX

OEKO-TEX 100 OEKO-TEX 1000

Textile Criteria LCA Performance and durability Limitations of toxic residues in fibres Limitation of the use of substances harmful to health and environment Reduction of pollution (air, water) during production LCA.. Life Cycle Assessment

Licence holders 118 awarded products from 70 companies from 17 countries mostly “final products” some fibres

Criteria Limited use of substances harmful to environment and health Reduced water and air pollution Textile shrink resistance during washing and drying Colour resistance to perspiration, washing, wet and dry rubbing and light exposure … for more details:

EU Ecolabel on Textiles Regulation Commission Decision 1999/178/EC Commission Decision 2002/371/EC... Revision (AFNOR)

Objectives of the Revision Increase success of the Textile Ecolabel and convince textile industry to get more envolved Update and complete the criteria Take into account new regulations and standards Establish synergy between Ecolabel and Oekotex (facilicate application!)

Websites: EU Ecolabel + Product catalogue Consumer Brochure - general Consumer flyer “textiles and shoes” Promotion of DG Env. + national CBs Promotion on product and P.O.S. of the companies EU Ecolabel on Textiles Information for Consumer

EU Ecolabel on Textiles Consumer brochure Ecolabel Products

EU Ecolabel on Textiles Consumer brochure Clothing and Footware

Application pack with User guide Online application form Websites of DG ENV. and CBs Business Fact sheet EU Ecolabel on Textiles Information for Industry

EU Ecolabel on Textiles Business fact sheet

EU Ecolabel on Textiles Steps to application

example Lenzing fibres high quality, eudermic, long-lasting and most environmentally friendly products made from renewable resources environmentally sound production easier Eco-labeling for producers of textiles made from these fibers!

Paris Lenzing press conference with textile press from UK, USA, FR, DE, PT, ES etc. EU Ecolabel was the PR key theme 2006 example „Lenzing“ fibres about 80 fairs world wide

How to successfully use the label Press work (awarding,..) Labels on the product and packaging On promotion flyers Product website Point of sales (crowners, displays,..) Advertisment Events Give aways …

Thank you EU Ecolabel Marketing