Glacier Travel Rob Jagnow
What makes glacier travel different from above-treeline travel?…
Crevasses!
Anatomy of a Glacier Moat Bergschrund Firn line Terminus Terminal moraine Medial Moraine Lateral Moraine
Gear Everything for above treeline travel, plus… Rope Harness Helmet Prusiks Anchors Slings Belay device Carabiners Wands
Roping Up
Route Finding Avoid Likely Crevasse Locations Avoid Potential Pendulum Falls (keep the rope perpendicular to crevasses) Wand you way Probe camp area Belay climbers in an out of camp
Oops!
Rescue Options Self Rescue Team Rescue
Self Rescue Drop Backpack (2-to-1 advantage) Prusik up rope
Team Rescue Set anchor –Snow picket –Fluke –Deadman –Bollard Self-belay to edge Check on climber Pad lip
Team Rescue Brute Force (Only with lots of haulers) Single Pulley (2-to-1 advantage) Z-Pulley (3-to-1 advantage) Other systems (x-to-1 advantage)
Single Pulley
Z-Pulley
End