Life Skills 2 Copyright 2013 © WSCAP Washington State Apprentice Program Advanced Nail Techniques 14.3

ADVANCED NAIL TECHNIQUES One of the first things we notice about people is their hands and fingernails. With the technology of the 21 st century, there is no reason for anyone to have unattractive nails. There are many ways that you, as a professional cosmetologist skilled in nail technology, can help your clients have better looking hands.

NAIL TECHNIQUES Preservice consultation Preservice procedure Postservice procedure Nail tips Nail wraps Acrylic nails Gels or dipped nails

CONSULTATION As with any service you offer, a thorough client consultation should be conducted prior to offering any advanced nail technique. The procedure is the same as for any other nail service consultation and is included in the preservice procedure for artificial nails.

NAIL TIPS These are preformed artificial nails applied to the tips of natural fingernails; made of plastic, nylon, or acetate. Overlay is a wrap, acrylic, or gel applied over the natural nail. Secure nail tips to the natural nail with glue or bonding agents. CAUTION: Wear safety glasses to avoid getting even the smallest amount of glue in the client’s eyes or your own.

TIP CONSTRUCTION Nail tips have a well that serves as the point of contact with the nail plate. The position stop is the point where the nail plate meets the tip before it is glued to the nail. Tips should never cover more than half of the natural nail plate.

TIP PREPARATION Prebevel along the edge closest to the cuticle to thin out the plastic. Prebeveled tips require less filing on the natural nail after application, which cuts down potential for damage to the natural nail.

NAIL WRAPS This corrective treatment forms a protective coating for damaged or fragile nails. Wraps can be applied over the natural nail or over tips. Silk, fiberglass, linen, or paper materials are used. Glue or adhesive dryer may be used for application.

LIQUID NAIL WRAP This is a polish made with tiny fibers designed to strengthen and preserve the natural nail. It is brushed on in several directions to create a network that, when hardened, protects the nail. It is similar to nail hardener, though it is of a thicker consistency and contains more fiber.

ACRYLIC NAILS These are also referred to as sculptured nails; created by combining a liquid acrylic product with a powdered product. When joined, the two products form a soft ball that can be molded into a nail shape. They can be applied over natural nails, over tips, or over paper or metal forms.

SCIENCE OF ACRYLIC NAILS Acrylic nails have three basic ingredients:  Monomer  Polymer  Catalyst

MONOMER This is a substance made up of many small molecules that are not attached to one another. Liquid acrylic is a type of monomer.

POLYMER This is a hard substance formed by combining many small molecules. Polymers and monomers are developed from the same chemistry except that one remains in liquid form (monomer) and the other is in powdered form (polymer).

CATALYST This is any substance having the power to increase the velocity (speed) of a chemical reaction. Powdered acrylic is a combination of ground- up polymer and a catalyst. Process begins when the liquid from the brush picks up the powder from the jar.

CATALYST The catalyst “explodes” when it comes in contact with the monomer, causing heat. The heat starts a chain reaction from one polymer bead to the other. It continues until the last polymer bead receives heat. This hardening process is also called curing.

PRIMERS These improve adhesion and prepare nail surface for bonding with acrylic. Acid primer is widely used to help bind acrylic to the nail. Nonacid primer is noninvasive to the natural nail; noncorrosive on skin but not as effective as acid primer.

PRIMERS Dot on, do not brush on. Do not over-prime. Allow primer to dry naturally. Follow directions. Wear gloves and safety glasses.

ACRYLIC NAIL FILLS A fill is the application of acrylic product to the new growth of the natural nail. Fill nails every two to three weeks During the fill, the shape of the nail should be redefined; this is called rebalancing.

GELS Gels are strong, durable artificial nails. They are brushed onto the nail plate. Chemically, they are very similar to an acrylic product, but they require a catalyst to ensure hardening.

TWO TYPES OF GEL Light-cured gels—harden when exposed to an ultraviolet or halogen light No-light gels—harden with an activator or accelerator

DIPPED NAILS These are created by dipping the nails into acrylic powder (powder may be sprinkled on). No monomer is needed. Use a cyanoacrylate, a very fast-setting glue.

DRILLS Drills are motorized implements with various attachments and speeds. Client’s hand should be held securely, and drilling should occur slowly. Drills are used to clean under the nail, clean away peeling of natural nail, shape curves of an acrylic nail, and to shorten the free edge of an artificial nail. Clean drill bits one to two hours or overnight in a brush cleaner. Service drills annually.

COMMON PROBLEMS WITH ARTIFICIAL NAILS Artificial nails will sometimes lift from the natural nail. Some causes of lifting: –Improper etching –Improper application of primer –Poor application of product placement –Acrylic product (monomer and polymer) improperly mixed –Dust not completely removed

COMMON PROBLEMS WITH ARTIFICIAL NAILS Some causes of lifting: –Product applied too thickly –Contaminated or old product –Nails being too long (pressure can be caused at the cuticle) –Nail fill schedule not followed –Using acetone polish remover –Too many layers of silk or linen, or deleting the glue application

COMMON PROBLEMS WITH ARTIFICIAL NAILS Causes of breaking: –Stress area is too thin: The ball of the product at the stress area must be of thicker consistency as this is where the most stress will occur for the client wearing acrylic nails. –The product is contaminated or old. –Nails are too long for client. –Product consistency is inadequate. –Product is made too thin. –Fill or replacement schedule is not followed.

COMMON PROBLEMS WITH ARTIFICIAL NAILS Causes of peeling: –When the underside of the artificial nail separates from the natural nail at the free edge, it is known as peeling. –It can cause the entire sculptured nail to pop off. –It occurs primarily on clients with thin natural nails. –Applying a thin coat of glue on the underside of the natural nail will help strengthen or “thicken” the natural nail. –Fungus may also cause artificial nails to peel.

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS Use new orangewood sticks and files with each client. Keep all products from touching the skin. Keep alcohol nearby in case gels get hot from chemical reaction. If you accidentally touch the nails after you apply antiseptic, you must clean them again and reapply. Check primer for clarity to make sure it is not contaminated.

SAFETY PRECAUTIONS Use primer sparingly; it can cause irritation or burns. If you accidentally spill primer on clothes, remove garment immediately. Do not use nipper to clip away loose acrylic; this may cause lifting. Make sure bottles are tightly capped when not in use. Do not store acrylic products near heat or use near an open flame. Do not apply acrylic to injured or inflamed skin.

NAIL ART Advanced technology allows for exciting custom designs. Nail art is one of the most popular add-on services in the salon. It can be conservative or flamboyant. The following may be used: –Gems, striping tape, foil, gold leaf or nuggets, airbrushing

SUMMARY We have learned that there is really no reason for someone who desires long, elegant-looking nails to not have them. There are a wide variety of convenient and affordable techniques available that allow clients to extend or strengthen their own nails. As a cosmetologist or nail technician who offers nail care in your salon, you will want to fine-tune your skills and speed in these important services.