Hammad Naqi Khan Director – Freshwater & Toxics Programme WWF - Pakistan Sustainable Cotton: Making it cleaner and greener Vijverberg sessie November 12, 2008 The Hague, Netherlands

Outline Introduction Cotton and Water Sustainable Cotton Production Addressing the Challenges Roles & Responsibilities of Brands, Suppliers and Farmers

What is WWF? Largest independent environmental NGO Science & solution based US$ 500 million annual income Approx staff worldwide Projects in +/- 100 countries Approx. 5 million supporters

WWF’s Priorities Global ProgramsPriority Regions GLOBAL 200 ECOREGIONS FRESHWATER OCEANS & COASTS SPECIES TOXICS CLIMATE CHANGE FORESTS

Our blue planet ……..… is getting redder

Irrigation accounts for 2/3 of water use worldwide and as much as 90% in many developing countries About 40% of the world's food is grown in irrigated soils, which make up 18% of global cropland.

Some Agriculture Realities.. Global food demand will double in 50 years Increased income (globally 2.4 times by 2050) will lead to increased consumption Per capita arable land globally is decreasing Intensification and efficiency will be key Biofuels compete with food and fiber for land 3-4% increase per year in cotton demand (2 billion kg/year)

Cotton: a global crop

Produced in 90 countries (approx.) 80% developing nations 35 million Ha of land under cotton (2.5% of cropland) World production & consumption: ~25 MT/ year - 8 countries grow 85% of all cotton % of primary production traded internationally yearly - Finished products go to every country Vital to the economies and people of many developing countries - e.g. C.Asia, West Africa, Pakistan

Cotton and development More than 90% of cotton farmers live in developing countries Vast majority are poor, small-holders (<2ha) Cotton is often only cash crop Cotton is often only source of credit Poverty, debt and crisis are only one crop failure away for farmers

ISSUES Water Pesticides Social issues GMO

Cotton growth to production Water Losses First / agricultural stage: Cotton production at field level evaporation of infiltrated rainwater for cotton growth (green water use), withdrawal of ground or surface water for irrigation (blue water use), water pollution due to the leaching & run off of fertilizers and pesticides Second / industrial stage : Processing of seed cotton into final cotton products Abstraction of process water from surface or ground water, Pollution of water as a result of the waste flows from cotton processing industries

Global Water Use in Cotton Production Global AverageLowestHighest Seed Cotton3,544 l/kg (I & R) 1,818 l/kg (I only) 2,018 l/kg (China) 46 l/kg (Brazil) 8,663 l/kg (India) 5,602 l/kg (Turkm) Cotton Lint8,506 l/kg (I & R) 4,242 (I only) 4,710 l/kg (China) 107 l/kg (Brazil) 20,217 l/kg (India) 13,077 l/kg (Turkm) Final Textile9,359 l/kg (I & R) 4,917 l/kg (I only) 5,404 l/kg (China) 608 l/kg (Brazil) 21,563 l/kg (India) 14,122 l/kg (Turkm) UNESCO-IHE (Institute for Water Education), Water Footprint of Cotton Consumption. From Tables 3.4 and

Area and Textile Growth in Pakistan Sr.No.Particulars Area (Ml.ha.) Production (Ml.ha.) Yield (Kg./ha.)769 4.Ginneries Textile Mills458 6.Mill Consumption (Ml.bales) Yarn Production (Ml.Kg.) Cloth Production (Ml.Sq.Mtr.) 915

Pakistan Cotton Project & its linkages with Better Cotton Initiative (BCI)

Methodology 1.Research BMPs collated and tested Access to financing options / micro credit Gap analysis of the Policy framework

2. Farm level implementation TOF and FTOF: Training of facilitators and Farmers Training of Facilitators FFS( Farmer Field School): A process of discovery based learning/teaching with participatory approach FO (Farmer Organization) Capacity building of existing and/ or new FOs for the adoption and promotion of BMPs to educate the farming communities

3. Foundation for an enabling environment National Agricultural related policy review Influencing private sector support Links with International initiatives to define ‘Better’ Standards

Farmer training: 400+ Farmer Field Schools established In cotton growing areas…

.…and farmers trained

Pakistan Sustainable Cotton Initiative 30% reduction in fertiliser use Better farming practices for cotton 23% reduction in irrigation water 60% reduction in pesticides

FTOF Five photos Gross margins have increased

Health has improved from reduced pesticides and increased awareness “Before we understood the impact of pesticides we thought our children got sick for superstitious reasons – like we had done something wrong. Now we know if it is a pesticide problem and take our children to the doctor”

Private sector support  More than 240,000 kg of “better” cotton was purchased by a local miller in 2006  IKEA is supporting the development of better practices in cotton production  The Better Cotton Initiative (BCI) is testing their sustainability standards with WWF in Pakistan

Better Irrigation Practices Bed and Furrow Irrigation Laser Land Leveler Right: Alternate Row Irrigation

Water Saving due to Better Irrigation Practices Bed and furrow technique: 27-33% Laser leveller: 33-37% Alternate row irrigation: 22-31% Water scouting: 16-24%

The Way Forward……

Three main drivers: 1.supply chain security, 2.reputation risk and 3.consumer markets Brands/Retailers should/can build integrated supply chains promote an industry standard for sustainable cotton by supporting BCI exert pressure on suppliers by actively demanding better cotton provide easily accessible product information to consumers. support projects which assist farmers in making the shift to sustainable seed cotton production Brands/Retailers

Suppliers Ensure that environmental concerns are playing an increasing role in supply chain management. Should understand that cotton grown through BMPs is more profitable for the farmers through direct contact with farmers and Ginners (no third party involvement). Institutional support to promote sustainable cotton production and development of Better/sustainable cotton standards. Implementation of BMPs in their farms. Influence and promote BMPs in their sourcing area.

Organize themselves & participate in community run programs Be innovative, do experimentation, informed decision- making Switch from conventional to sustainable better cotton practices Build networks with research organizations and any local organizations that work towards sustainable farm practices What can Farmers do?

Thank you! freshwater