Meet the Rabbit By Kari Anderson

A Little Bit of Rabbit History Thousands of years ago, rabbits were only found in parts of Africa and Europe Rabbits were introduced to other parts of the world and came to North America (from Asia) about 40-million years ago They now live on every continent except for Antarctica

Some Bunny Basics… There are 2 main types of Rabbits found in nature North American Rabbits Also called “New World” Rabbits Most common in North America is the “Cotton-Tail” Rabbit Tail looks like a ball of cotton European Rabbits (1st lived in Europe & Africa) Also called “Old World” Rabbits Most pet rabbits are of European There are 28 different species of rabbits in the world Small mammals that are covered with fur Belong to the family Leporidae Known for their large ears and short, fluffy tails Hoppers not walkers Able to leap up to 15 feet (4.5 meters)

…more Bunny Basics In nature, Rabbits are often hard to see because they can stay still for very long periods of time The color of their fur blends in with their surroundings Common colors are gray, brown, reddish-brown, black, or white Nocturnal Creatures Come out to feed at twilight/night Darkness helps hide them from predators Like to stay close to their shelters Sleep and hide during the daylight hours

A wide variety of animals hunt rabbits, among their most common predators are foxes, bobcats, owls, hawks, snakes, skunks, weasels, raccoons, dogs, and cats. As a defense against these predators, rabbits have several features that help them avoid or escape their enemies. Ears Best defense against danger Very long ears & excellent hearing Rotate easily & allows them to pick up the tiniest of sounds Can rotate one-at-a-time…or together Eyes Large eyes that are set wide-apart for a wide-range of vision Excellent eyesight Can sleep with their eyes open Nose Keen sense of smell Always twitching their noses to pick up nearby scents Hind Legs Much longer than their front to help them get away Mostly hop but can jump up to 15 feet in one stride Bottoms of feet are covered with hair hiding the long claws that extend from their toes Tails Also called ‘scuts’ Cottontail rabbits are named for the white fur on the underside of their tails Flash the white as a danger signal to other rabbits when fleeing from a predator The Rabbits Body

Environment Different Cotton-Tails live in different regions Eastern Cottontail Has the widest range; lives all over the US east of the Rocky Mountains. Also found in southern parts of Canada & some northern parts of Mexico Mountain Cottontail Lives in some SW parts of Canada & several western states in the US Desert Cottontail Lives in many western states

Warrens, Forms and Burrows Rabbits can adapt to many places which is how they are able to live in many kinds of habitats Such as forests, grasslands, prairies, deserts, brushy areas Live on mountains and in the cold arctic Live in cities, where they east lawns & gardens and find shelter in shrubs Live in any field that has hiding places Rabbits pretty much live anywhere they can hide from enemies Most European rabbits are social, friendly, animals and live with other rabbits in a maze of tunnels called ‘warrens’ Warrens are underground dens Generally around 10’ deep & cover a large area of land Has many entrances & rooms

Warrens, Forms and Burrows North American Rabbits, not very social, however, they do let their homes ranges overlap They generally Rabbits stay within a home range of about 10 acres of land Some males may wander much farther Rabbits live near water when they can Great swimmers and can take to the water if being chased by a predator Unlike European ‘old world’ rabbits, most cottontails ‘new world’ rabbits do not build burrows Instead, they dig small depressions in the ground called Forms Rest in here during daylight hours Winter months, they may take over abandoned woodchuck burrows Desert cottontails use skunk & prairie-dog burrows Tunnel a network of paths underground to travel safely Not out in the open with nowhere to hide if danger strikes

What Do Rabbits Eat? Rabbits are plant-eaters; herbivores In the Spring, Summer, and Autumn months Grass, leaves, flowers, buds, shoots, stems, clovers, etc. In the Winter months when food is harder to find Buds, twigs and several different kinds of tender tree bark Since Rabbits like to eat Clover, some gardeners will plant clover near their garden, this way the rabbits will eat the clover instead of their flowers and vegetables. When feeding out in the open, rabbits are exposed to predators, their digestive system helps them cope with this risk They are able to eat quickly and fill their stomachs Return to their safe-spot where they, Produce fecal waste, or droppings, this first pass is partially digested food Soft, moist, and contains important minerals that the rabbit needs They eat these pellets When the rabbits completely finishes its meat, they will poop again This second round is hard and dry Usually done outside the rabbits den They do not eat these hard pellets

The Mating Game Rabbits are polyestrous and can breed any time of the year Busiest mating season is between February and October Males are called ‘bucks’ Lack a penis bone Jump in the air and challenge each other for the companionship of the female Does & Bucks will chase each other playfully as part of their courtship process Females are called ‘does’ Able to become pregnant by 4 to 8 months of age Can have many litter each year Generally 4 or 5 Each litter usually produces between 5 and 8 young Gestation period is 28 to 32 days Shortly before her babies are born, the pregnant doe builds a birthing nest The nest is a shallow form that she lines with soft leaves and tufts of her own belly fur Makes it a cozy nest spot for her babies When out finding food, the doe covers her nest with grasses & leaves to protect her young from predators

The Rabbit Life Cycle The young, or babies, are called kittens, or ‘kits’ Kits are born helpless and small Usually weigh about 1oz and are about 4” long Born blind and without any hair Eyes stay closed for about a week Grow hair within about 10 days Nursed once a day for about 2 weeks Except for Mountain Cottontails, they are nursed for about a month Ready to leave the nest when they are 14 to 16 days old Still eat, sleep, and play together At about a month old (4 to 5 weeks), they go off on their own Kits become full grown at about 4 months old and are then considered to be a Buck or a Doe Ready to breed by the following Spring, if not sooner depending on the time of year

The Circle of Life *Rabbits have a very high death rate due to disease and their many predators **But they reproduce very quickly…they often mate again shortly after giving birth

Rabbit Restraint 101 A struggling rabbit is prone to serious injury, especially to its spine, and can bite and scratch the person trying to restrain it. Rabbits are usually passive and easy to handle, but they are prey animals with a natural instinct to bolt when frightened or stressed. With proper restraint increases the rabbit's sense of security and lowers the chance of it injuring itself.   Lift the rabbit from its cage or pet carrier, fully supporting its hind quarters with your hand. Protecting the powerful back legs is extremely important because they are very strong. Rapid kicking from a scared rabbit can cause dislocations and fractures to the back and induce paralysis in both rear legs. Top opening cages are recommended for rabbits to reduce the chance of them leaping out, but if using a side opening model and the rabbit is reluctant to emerge, grasp the loose skin around its neck and very gently pull it to the front of the cage. Take care not to lift the rabbit while holding it by the scruff of the neck. Cradle the rabbit in the football hold to get it out of the cage and continue that hold while it’s out of the cage.

Rabbit Restraint 101 Place the rabbit on the examination table, fold one hand around its rump and rest your other hand across its shoulders. This protective stance keeps some rabbits calm, but others remain safer when swaddled in a "bunny burrito." Lay a towel or blanket over the rabbit's back and wrap it around its body, making sure to secure all four feet. Speaking softly to a rabbit while covering its eyes and stroking its fur may help it into a relaxed, hypnotic-like trance, making it much easier to handle the animal. Resist trying to overpower a kicking and thrashing rabbit; set it on the floor instead. Rabbits feel most secure when their feet are on the ground. Do not drop a rabbit that is fighting you, as you can cause injury’s to the rabbit. Return the rabbit to its cage by carefully guiding its hind quarters into the cage first. Brace the back legs with study hand support. Maneuver the rest of the animal's body inside and secure the latch. Avoid lifting or trying to restrain a rabbit by its ears, tail or limbs. This can cause injury to the animal and will likely instigate a tussle. Struggling rabbits can easily break their own bones as they attempt to escape. They are also very fast and will probably outrun you. If using a restrainer place the rabbits hind end in first, then gently place it’s front end in and fasten the front of the restrainer