Chapter 23 Facials

Skin Analysis & Consultation ____________________________________ ____________________________________ ____________________________________ ____________________________________ ____________________________________ ____________________________________ Consultation allows you the opportunity to ask the client questions about their health and skin as well as advise them about the appropriate products and treatments 2

Intake Form During the consultation a client will fill out an intake form that will ask many health questions that will allow you to identify any contradictions __________________________________________ __________________________________________ ____________________ during the facial treatment. Example: a client using Retin-A should not receive any waxing or exfoliation procedures 3

Main Contradictions Use of Accutane, Retin-A, Renova, Tazorac, or Differin – NO Waxing, Exfoliating, Peeling or Stimulating treatments Pregnancy – No electrical treatments Metal pins or plates – No electrical treatments Pacemakers / Heart Irregularities – No electrical treatments Allergies – always use non-fragranced products for sensitive skin Seizures or Epilepsy – No electrical or light treatments Oral Steroids (Prednisone) – No stimulating or exfoliating treatments, No waxing Autoimmune disease (lupus) – No stimulating treatments Diabetes – No services without physicians approval. Diabetics heal very slowly Blood Thinners – No waxing or extractions 4

When in doubt – DON’T A cosmetologist _________________________________________. However, as a professional, you must be able to recognize the presence of various skin aliments in order to suggest that the client seek medical advice from a physician After a skin analysis and consultation if you have any doubts DO NOT provide the service & refer the client to a physician 5

Skin Type _________________________________________ _________________________________________, although the skin may look considerable better after treatment 6

Skin Types Oily Dry Normal Combination Dry Combination Oily Acne 7

Skin Condition __________________________________________ __________________________________________ 8

Skin Conditions Oily – open & closed comedones, clogged pores, shiny, thick appearance Dry – ________________ tight, pore-less looking, dehydrated with fine lines and wrinkles, dry and rough to the touch Normal – very unusual (most common is combination skin) Combination Dry – may have clogged pores in the nose, chin and center of forehead. Dry , pore-less towards the outside edges of the face Combination Oily – comedones, clogged pores or obvious pores in the center of the face (T-zone) Acne – presence of numerous open and closed comedones, clogged pores, and red papules and pustules 9

Skin Conditions Cont’d ____________________________ – dark blotches of color, caused by sun exposure or hormone imbalances __________________________________ and home care products that discourage pigmentation Daily use of sunscreen and avoidance of sun exposure are very important for this skin type 10

Skin Conditions Cont’d Sensitive skin has a thin, red-pink look and is easily inflamed by some skin care products Avoid strong products, fragranced products or strong exfoliates ______________________ is chronic hereditary disorder that can be indicated by constant or frequent facial blushing. It is considered a medical disorder and should be diagnosed by a dermatologist. Client should be treated with products specially formulated for rosacea 11

Dry Skin Otherwise known as Alipidic – “____________________________” Dehydrated skin can be flaky with small fine lines and wrinkles Dehydration can be caused from lack of care, over-drying skin care products, sun exposure, lack of water intake Dehydrated skin is treated by using hydrators that help to bind water to the skin surface Proper hydration will result in smoother-looking and softer skin 12

Oily Skin Produces too much sebum Will have large pores Skin may appear shiny or greasy Pores may be clogged from dead cells building up in the hair follicles There may be open comedones or closed comedones 13

Open vs. Closed Comedones _____________________________________________, they are a mixture of solidified sebum and dead cell buildup stuck in the follicles Closed comedones are small bumps just underneath the skin surface 14

Acne 15 The presence of pimples in oily areas indicates acne Acne is a disorder in which the follicles become clogged, resulting in infection of the follicle with redness and inflammation Acne bacteria are _________________________, which means that they cannot survive in the presence of oxygen. Follicles are blocked with solidified sebum and dead-cell buildup, oxygen cannot readily get to the bottom of the follicle where acne bacteria live. Acne papules are red pimples that do not have a pus head Pimples with a pus head are called pustules Pus is a fluid inside a pustule, largely made up of dead white blood cells that tried to fight the infection CAUTION – always wear gloves when performing extractions because acne skin contains infectious matter 15

Skin Care Products Skin care products are classified into 6 main categories: ______________________________ 16

Cleansers __________________________________________ __________________________________________ _________________ – are non-foaming lotions. Designed to cleanse _______________________ _____________________ – contain detergents that cause the product to foam and rinse easily. Designed for __________________________. Some have antibacterial ingredients for acne-prone skin 17

Toners AKA- Freshners or Astringents _________________________________________ Sometimes contain ingredients to help remove dead cells Applied with cotton pads or sprayed onto the face 18

Exfoliants _________________________________________, the skin will look smoother and clearer Help to clear the skin of clogged pores and can improve the appearance of wrinkles, aging, and hyperpigmentation 2 main categories: _________________ 19

Mechanical Exfoliants Granular scrubs Gommage – roll-off masks _________________________________ Skin brushing 20

Chemical Exfoliant Either loosen or dissolve dead cell buildup Can be used for a short time, although some may be worn as a day or night treatment ________________________________________________ Wrinkles appear less deep, skin discolorations fade, clogged pores are loosened and reduced, and new clogged pores are prevented These acids _____________________________, resulting in firmer and healthier-looking skin _________________________ which dissolve keratin in the surface cells 21

Proper exfoliation may improve the appearance of the skin in the following ways Reduced clogged and oily skin Promotes skin smoothness Increases moisture content and hydration Reduces hyperpigmentation Decreases uneven skin color Eliminates or softens wrinkles and fine lines Increases elasticity Speeds up cell turnover Allows for better penetration of treatment creams and serums Make-up applies more evenly 22

Moisturizers Help increase the moisture content of the skin surface Help the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles Allows for a smoother make-up application Protects the skin from environmental damage ________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________ Moisturizers for oily skin contain significantly less emollients Moisturizers for dry skin contain more emollients and are often heavier 23

Sunscreens Shield skin from sun exposure ___________________________________ causes the majority of skin cancers, and prematurely ages the skin Every client should be instructed to use a daily sunscreen. Look for daily moisturizers that contain broad-spectrum sunscreens, which means that they protect against both UVA and UVB sunrays. An SPF- 15 or higher is considered to be adequate strength 24

Treatments Serums or ampoules are ______________________ that generally contain higher amounts of ingredients that have an effect on skin appearance 25

Products that are __________________________________________ __________________________________________ Masks 26

Clay Masks _________________________________________ make large pores appear smaller. They may contain sulfur which is an antibacterial ingredient to treat acne-prone skin

Cream Masks ________________________________________ contain emollients and humectants have a strong moisturizing effect

Gel Masks ____________________________________ help plump surface cells

Alginate Masks _________________________________________ come in a powder form dry to a rubberized texture they create a seal that encourages the skin’s absorption of serums or creams

Paraffin Masks Apply over creams or serums __________________________________________ __________________________________________

Modelage Mask __________________________________________ __________________________________________ Not recommended for sensitive skin, oily skin , or blemished skin

Massage ________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________ It is important that when you are giving a massage that you use a firm sure touch Keep your hands soft by using creams and lotions. File and shape your nails to avoid scratching your client’s skin 34

Massage Cont’d The impact of massage treatment depends on the amount of pressure, the direction of movement, and the duration of each type of manipulation involved The direction of movement is always from ______________________ Massaging a muscle in the wrong direction could result in a loss of resilience and sagging of the skin and muscles 35

Basic Massage Manipulations _____________________ ________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Palms work the large surface, while the cushions of the fingertips work the small surfaces Used on the forehead, face, scalp, back, shoulder, neck, chest, arms, and hands It has soothing and relaxing effects and ________________________________________________________ 36

Basic Massage Manipulations _______________________ ________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________ Petrissage offers deeper stimulation to the muscles, nerves and skin glands and improve circulation Usually limited to the back, shoulders, and arms Digital kneading can also be used on the cheeks with light pinching movements, pressure should be light but firm Movements must be rhythmic and never jerky Fulling is a form of petrissage in which the tissue is grasped, gently lifted, and spread out, used mainly for massaging the arms 37

Basic Massage Manipulations Friction Deep rubbing movement in which you apply pressure on the skin with your fingers or palms while moving it over an underlying structure Significant benefit on the circulation and glandular activity of the skin Typically used on the scalp, arms, and hands Chucking, rolling and wringing are variations of friction, and are used mainly to massage the arms and legs 38

Basic Massage Manipulations _______________________ ________________________________________________________ __________________ and should be applied with care and discretion Tone the muscles and impart a healthy glow to the are being massaged In facial massage, use only light digital tapping. Bring the fingertips down against the skin in rapid succession Hacking is a form of tapotement in which chopping movements are performed with the edges of the hands. Used only to massage the back, shoulders, and arms 39

Basic Massage Manipulations Vibration Rapid shaking of the body part while the balls of the fingertips are pressed firmly on the point of application A highly relaxing movement that should be applied at the end of the massage It increases muscle tone in the muscles of the body 40

Effects of Massage To obtain proper results from massage, you must have a thorough knowledge of the structures involved, including muscles, nerves, connective tissues, and blood vessels. Every muscle has a _________________________ which is a point on the skin over the muscle where pressure or stimulation will cause contraction of that muscle Relaxation is achieved through light but firm, slow, rhythmic movements, or very slow, light hand vibrations over the motor points for a short time. Another technique is to pause briefly over the motor points, using light pressure 41

Free template from www.brainybetty.com Motor Points 03/11/2012 Free template from www.brainybetty.com

Facial Manipulations The best manipulations to use on the face are that an even tempo, or rhythm, brings on relaxation Do not remove your hands from the client’s face once you have started the manipulations _______________________________________________________, then gently replace them with feather-like movements 43

Free template from www.brainybetty.com Chin Movement Lift the chin using a slight pressure 03/11/2012 Free template from www.brainybetty.com

Free template from www.brainybetty.com Lower Cheek Using a circular movement, rotate from chin to ears 03/11/2012 Free template from www.brainybetty.com

Free template from www.brainybetty.com Mouth, nose, & cheek Follow diagram 03/11/2012 Free template from www.brainybetty.com

Linear movement over the forehead Slide fingers to the temples and then stroke up to hairline, gradually moving your hands across the forehead to the right eyebrow 03/11/2012 Free template from www.brainybetty.com

Circular movement over the forehead Starting at the eyebrow line work across the middle of the forehead and then toward the hairline 03/11/2012 Free template from www.brainybetty.com

Free template from www.brainybetty.com Crisscross Movement Start at one side of the forehead and work back 03/11/2012 Free template from www.brainybetty.com

Free template from www.brainybetty.com Stroking Slide your fingers towards the center of the forehead and then draw your fingers, with slight pressure, toward the temples and rotate 03/11/2012 Free template from www.brainybetty.com

Free template from www.brainybetty.com Brow and eye movement Place your middle fingers at the inner corners of the eyes and your index fingers over the brows. Slide them towards the outer corners of the eyes, under the eyes, and then back to the inner corners 03/11/2012 Free template from www.brainybetty.com

Nose and upper cheek movement Slide your fingers down the nose. Apply a rotary movement across the cheeks to the temples and rotate gently. Slide your fingers under the eyes and then back to the bridge of the nose 03/11/2012 Free template from www.brainybetty.com

Mouth and nose movement Apply a circular movement from the corners of the mouth up to the sides of the nose. Slide your fingers over the brows and then down to the corners of the mouth up to the sides of the nose. Follow by sliding your fingers over the brows and down to the corners of the mouth again 03/11/2012 Free template from www.brainybetty.com

Free template from www.brainybetty.com Mouth & Nose Movement 03/11/2012 Free template from www.brainybetty.com

Free template from www.brainybetty.com Lip and chin movement From the center of the upper lip, draw your fingers around the mouth, going under the lower lip and chin 03/11/2012 Free template from www.brainybetty.com

Free template from www.brainybetty.com Optional Movement Hold the head with your left hand, and draw the fingers of your right hand from under the lower lip and around mouth, moving to the center of the upper lip 03/11/2012 Free template from www.brainybetty.com

Lifting movement of the cheeks Proceed from the mouth to the ears and then from the nose to the top part of the ears 03/11/2012 Free template from www.brainybetty.com

Rotary Movement of the cheeks Massage from the chin to the ear lobes, from the mouth to the middle of the ears, and from the nose to the top of the ears 03/11/2012 Free template from www.brainybetty.com

Light tapping movement Work from the chin to the earlobe, from the mouth to the ear, from the nose to the top of the ear, and then across the forehead. Repeat on the other side 03/11/2012 Free template from www.brainybetty.com

Stroking movement of the neck Apply light upward strokes over the front of the neck. Use heavier pressure on the sides of the neck in downward strokes 03/11/2012 Free template from www.brainybetty.com

Circular movement over the neck and chest Starting at the back of the ears, apply a circular movement down the side of the neck, over the shoulders, and across the chest 03/11/2012 Free template from www.brainybetty.com

Male Skin Not all that different from female skin Needs more attention in the areas of the face where there is hair growth _________________________________________ 62

Facial Equipment - Magnifying Lamp used to analyze skin

Facial Equipment - Steamer Helps to soften the tissue, making it more accepting of moisturizers and other treatment products. Steam also helps to relax and soften follicle accumulations such as comedones and clogged follicles, making them easier to extract Precautions should be taken with clients who have asthma or other breathing disorders 64

Facial Equipment – Brushing Machine Rotating electrical appliance with interchangeable brushes that can be attached to the rotating head. Larger and stiffer brushes are used for back treatments Smaller softer brushes are used for the face ________________________________________________ Administered after steaming _________________________________________________ should be applied so the brushes will not scratch the face Brushes must be thoroughly cleansed and disinfected between clients 65

Facial Brushing Machine

Facial Equipment – Suction & Spray The skin suction machine increases circulation spray machine can be used on any type skin to deliver lotions or toners 67

Electrodes Electrode – ____________________________________________________________________________________________________________ Anode – positive electrode usually red or indicated by a + sign Cathode – negative electrode usually black or indicated by a - sign

Electrotherapy __________________________________________ Galvanic & High Frequency most frequently used

Desincrustation – ____________________________________ ____________________________________ ___________________________________ Iontophoresis – process of using galvanic current to ____________________________________ ____________________________________ ____________________________________

Galvanic Current forces the product deeper into the follicle Current also produces a chemical reaction that helps to loosen the impacted sebum.

Microcurrent *______________________________________ *Best know for helping tone skin & produce a lifting effect for aging skin that lacks elasticity

Tesla High Frequency __________________________________________ _________________________________________ Can be applied after extractions for acne prone skin b/c of its germicidal effects Electrodes are made of glass and contain various types of gas such as neon and argon, which light up as a color when current is flowing through them

Light Therapy Using light exposure to treat conditions of the skin ________________________________________________________ Concentrated light that flashes very rapidly Red Light – treats aging and redness Blue Light – treats acne-prone skin

Microdermabrasion A type of mechanical exfoliation uses a closed vacuum to shoot aluminum-oxide crystals onto the skin, bumping off cell buildup that is then vacuumed up by a suction It is primarily used to treat wrinkles and aging skin

Extractions

Facial Treatments Fall into two categories _________________________________________ by cleansing correctly, increasing circulation, relaxing the nerves, and activating the skin glands and metabolism through massage _________________________________________, such as dryness, oiliness, comedones, aging lines, and monor conditions of acne

Preparation Set up your room for client, have all your supplies, bed made, soft music, light candle Wash your hands Greet client Conduct consultation Show client to dressing room Assist client onto the facial table Drape the clients head Place cotton over their eyes and examine skin under magnifying lamp

Facial Procedure Apply cotton pads with eye-make remover over the clients eyes Use cotton pad with make-up remover to cleanse clients lips Gently stroke the eyes to remove make-up Apply cleanser and use sweeping movements to cleanse the skin in upward motions Remove cleanser Analyze skin to determine the rest of the products to be used for facial

Optional – eyebrow arching Steam the face Perform extractions Exfoliate Remove exfoliant Massage the face using all facial manipulations Remove massage cream Apply mask Remove mask Apply toner Apply specialty serums / eye creams Apply moisturizer

Clean Up & Sanitation Remove head covering and show client to dressing room Discard all disposable supplies Close product containers tightly Place used linens in the hamper Sanitize your workstation Disinfect your tools Wash your hands Meet your client and take them to the reception area where you should discuss their home care system, make sure that you provide them with written instructions to take home