Chapter #20 Chemical Texture

Chemical Texture Services Permanent waving – __________________________________ Relaxing – __________________________________ __________________________________ Curl Re-formation – __________________________________ __________________________________

The structure of hair Review __________ - tough exterior layer of hair __________ - middle layer of the hair, responsible for the strength __________- innermost layer, not everyone has this, aka pith or core 3

Importance of pH in Texture Services __________________________________ __________________________________ __________________________________ opens the cuticle and allows the solution to reach the cortex coarse, resistant hair w/ a compact cuticle requires a _________________________ ___________, ____________ hair requires a less alkaline solution 4

Basic Building Blocks of Hair Amino acids - compounds made up of COHNS Peptide bonds - _______________, join together amino acids Polypeptide chains - long chains of amino acids joined together by peptide bonds Keratin Proteins - long, coiled polypeptide chains Side bonds - __________________________________ __________________________________

Side Bonds cortex is made up of millions of polypeptide chains cross-linked by 3 types of side bonds: __________________________________ __________________________________ Altering these 3 types of side bonds is what __________________________________ __________________________________ __________________________________ 6

Side Bond - Salt relatively weak ________________________________ result of an attraction between + & - electrical charges (ionic) account for 1/3 total strength of hair 7

Side Bond - Hydrogen __________________ also result of opposite electrical charge __________________________________ _________________________________ _________________________________ account for 1/3 of hair’s total strength 8

Side Bond - Disulfide __________________ _________________________________ __________________________________ __________________________________ __________________________________ 9

Permanent Waving Is a two step process Part 1 is the ___________ change- __________________________________ Part 2 is the ___________change- __________________________________

Perm Wrap Is essentially a wet set on perm rods instead of rollers You can use plastic rollers and plastic clippies to perform services _________________________________

Perm rods __________________________________ __________________________________ __________________________________ Selecting correct perm rod and wrapping method is key to successful perm

Perm rods cont’d Concave – ________________________ smaller diameter in the center that increases to a larger diameter on the ends _______________________________________ _______________________________________

Perm Rods Cont’d Straight – equal in diameter along their entire length _______________________________________ 7

Perm Rods Cont’d Bender – uniform diameter _______________________________________ _______________________________________ 8

Perm Rods Cont’d Loop – uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod hair is wrapped and the rod is secured by fastening the ends together to form a loop

specialty rods give a 3 dimentional curl 10

End Papers aka End Wraps ______________________________________________ ______________________________________________ _____________________________________________ *Double flat wrap- ______________________________ Single flat wrap – one paper only over the top strand of hair Bookend wrap – one paper folded in half , eliminates excess paper, however be careful to evenly distribute the hair over the entire length of the rod

End Wraps Double Flat Wrap Single Flat Wrap Bookend Wrap

Base Sections subsections of panels into which the hair is divided for perm wrapping ______________________________ ______________________________ 20

Base Placement Refers to the position of the rod in relation to its base section & ______________________________________________ ______________________________________________ On-base – 45 degrees beyond perpendicular to its base section, caution should be used with on-base placement because the additional stress & tension can mark or break the hair Half-off base – 90 degree angle or perpendicular to its base section, minimizes stress and tension of the hair Off –base – 45 degrees below the center of the base section

Base Direction Refers to the angle at which the rod is positioned on the head – horizontally, vertically, or diagonally ______________________________ ______________________________ ______________________________

Base Direction

Wrapping Techniques __________________________________ __________________________________ __________________________________

Chemistry of Perming Alkaline permanent wave solution soften and swells the hair, thus raising the cuticle, which permits the solution to penetrate into the cortex __________________________________ __________________________________ __________________________________

Reduction reaction ______________________________ ______________________________ Permanent waving is the +hydrogen Reduction breaks disulfide bonds ______________________________

Reduction All permanent waves contain a reducing agent commonly referred to as ________ __________________________________ __________________________________ __________________________________ Strength of perm lotion is determined by ___________________ of thio b/c acids do not swell the hair nor penetrate into the cortex manf. add an alkalizing agent __________________________________ __________________________________ 27

Types of Permanent Waves Alkaline (Cold) Acid Waves -Glyceryl Monothioglycolate (GMTG) True Acid Acid-Balanced Exothermic Endothermic Ammonia-Free Thio-Free Low pH 28

Alkaline aka ________________________ developed in 1941 pH ________________________ uses ammonium thoglycolate (ATG) __________________________________ 29

Acid Waves Glyceryl Monothioglycolate ____________ _________________________________ most also contain ____________ repeated exposure causes allergic sensitivity (stylist & client) 30

True Acid Waves Have 3 components: __________________________________ __________________________________ activator contains GMTG & must be added immediately before use introduced in 1970’s pH __________________ _______________________________ process more slowly than alkaline waves do not produce as ________________ as alkaline 31

Acid-Balanced Waves modern acid waves are actually acid- balanced waves _________________________________ 32

have __________________ Exothermic Wave have __________________ _______________________ _______________________ _______________________ increases the rate of the chemical reaction shortens the processing time

_______________________ _______________________ Endothermic Wave _______________________ _______________________ activated by outside heat source most true acid waves 34

Ammonia-Free Wave uses an ingredient that does not evaporate as readily as ammonia, very little odor Aminomethylpropanol (AMP) or Monethanolamine (MEA) are alkanolamines ______________________________ ______________________________ ______________________________

uses an ingredient other than ATG, such as cysteamine or mercaptamine Thio-Free Waves uses an ingredient other than ATG, such as cysteamine or mercaptamine they are ________________________ 36

use of _______________________ work at a low pH Low pH Waves use of _______________________ work at a low pH very weak / do not produce a firm curl usually marketed _______________________

Caution _______________________ _______________________ _______________________ _______________________ _______________________ _______________________ _______________________

Selecting the Right Type of Perm Every client’s hair is different Must perform a consultation Take into consideration __________________________________ __________________________________ __________________________________ __________________________________ __________________________________

Permanent Wave Processing Strength of any perm is based on concentration of its reducing agent If a weak perm is used on coarse hair, there may not be enough hydrogen ions to break the necessary number of disulfide bonds, no matter how long it processes A strong solution which releases many hydrogen atoms may be perfect for coarse hair but too damaging for fine hair ______________________________________________ ______________________________________________ _____________________________________________ The remaining processing time allows polypeptide chains to shift into their new configuration

Processing Cont. ______________________________________________ _____________________________________________ Properly processed perm should break and rebuild _____ of hair’s ____________________________ If too many bonds are broken, the hair may not have enough strength left to hold the desired curl Over processed hair does not necessarily mean overly- curly Hair at scalp is usually stronger than ends, therefore over processed hair is____________________________________________

Processing cont. If too few disulfide bonds are broken, hair will not be sufficiently softened and will not produce curl Under processed hair is __________________________________ ________________________________

Neutralizing Neutralizers used in permanent waving are actually ________________________ Most common neutralizer is __________________________________ __________________________________ Neutralizing performs two important functions: ____________ any remaining wave solution in the hair _____________________________ broken by waving solution

Neutralizing Stage One Properly rinse the hair using _______ water and a ___________ stream for at least _________ minutes Take care when rinsing fragile areas, ex: temple and nape Always smell hair after five minutes; _____________________________________________ Gently blot hair with dry towel; never firmly or aggressively Check for excess moisture at the nape where water accumulates ______________________________________________ _____________________________________________ Gently adjust any rods that have become loose or drifted out of alignment prior to applying neutralizer

Neutralizer Stage Two While neutralizer is on hair, each oxygen atom joins with two hydrogen atoms to rebuild one disulfide bond and make a water molecule Water is then removed during final rinse Side bonds are also reformed into their new shape as different pairs

Safety Precautions Protect your client’s clothing Use a waterproof shampoo cape Do not give perm to anyone who has had an allergic reaction to a previous perm Examine scalp: any sign of abrasion or disease, do not proceed Do not perm hair that is excessively damaged or shows breakage Do not perm hair previously treated with hydroxide relaxers Test for metallic salts Apply protective barrier cream to hairline Keep waving lotion out of client’s eyes ____________________________________________________________________ Always follow manufacturer’s directions Wear gloves Replace cotton or towels that have become soaked Do not save any opened, unused solution or neutralizer Hair that has been permed should be shampooed or conditioned with products specially formulated for chemically-treated hair

Wrapping Patterns Basic wrap pattern – uses the basic _____ sections, all base sections are horizontal, with the same length and width as the perm rod Curvature wrap – follows the shape of the head, curves within sectioned out panels, uses pie-shaped base sections in the curvature area Bricklay – sections are offset from each other row by row to prevent noticeable splits

Wrapping Patterns Cont’d Weave – _____________________ to divide base area, can be used throughout the entire per or only in selected area. Very effective for blending between perm rods with opposite base directions, also good as a transition of rolled area into the unrolled area of a partial perm Double rod – ____________________ two rods are used for one strand of hair. The upper half of the strand is wrapped around one rod and the lower half of the same strand is wrapped around a second rod and stacked on top of the first. Great for extra long hair. 48

Wrapping Patterns

Partial Perms Allows you to give a perm when some of the hair is too short to roll on rods Can be used on the top and crown w/ very short hair tapered on the sides and nape Good for clients who only need volume and lift in certain areas _______________________________________ _______________________________________ _______________________________________ _______________________________________

Test Curls Help you determine for your client’s hair will react to a perm It is advisable to take test curls if the hair is damaged Gently unwrap a rod and let the tension of the hair hang limp you should be able to see an _________ formation appearing

Basic Procedure Wash your hands Consultation Analysis of hair and scalp Gently shampoo & Gently towel dry hair Section hair Wrap sections _____________________________ Apply protection – barrier cream Apply coil cotton around the entire hairline Apply perm solution – ___________________________ If plastic cap is used pre-punch a few holes in it, do not allow plastic cap to touch client’s skin

Perm Procedure Cont’d Check cotton and towels –if saturated replace with new Process perm according to manf. Directions w/ or w/o heat Check curl – unwind rod and check “S” pattern formation, check a different rod each time you take a test curl Rinse Hair – thoroughly for a minimum of 5 minutes Towel blot hair gently Reapply cotton coil to hairline Apply neutralizer _________________________________ Process neutralizer according to manf. Instructions Rinse thoroughly DO NOT SHAMPOO for 48 – 72 hours – you may wet and condition Complete cleanup and sanitation

Metallic Salts Metallic salts are in some haircoloring products and they leave a coating on the hair that can not be mixed with permanent wave solution Test: in a glass bowl mix __________________________________ __________________________________ _________________________________ if metallic salts are present hair will lighten rapidly, solution will get hot & smell

Chemical Hair Relaxers 55

Chemical Hair Relaxers __________________________________ __________________________________ Other than their objectives being different this service is very similar to perm waving The chemistry of both break____________ The two most common forms of relaxer are _________________ & _______________ Avg cost $75-$100 / lasts until it grows out Retouch avg. 6 x’s per year

CAUTION Relaxers are characterized by an extremely high alkalinity and can literally melt or dissolve hair if used incorrectly, most relaxers contain some of the same ingredients in depilatories & Drano

Thio Relaxers Same reducing agent as permanent waving Usually has a pH _____________ and ______________________________ than used in permanent waving Usually thicker that is more suitable for application as a relaxer Break disulfide bonds and soften hair just as in permanents After bonds are broken hair is ____________________________________ and relaxer is rinsed from the hair Neutralizing rebuilds the disulfide bonds

Thio Relaxer application steps for thio relaxer is same as hydroxide relaxer except the neutralization procedure once thio relaxer is complete: 1-rinse w/ warm water 2- shampoo three times 3 - use a pre-neutralizing conditioner for five min 4 - rinse 5 - blot water from hair 6 - _________________________________________________________ 7 - rinse 8- shampoo 9 - condition 10 - style 59

Japanese Thermal Straightner First marketed in Asia to reduce Frizz aka _________________________________________ ______________________________ Is considered a specialty & requires extra training by manufactures Usually takes about 7-8 hours Costs between $500 - $1000. Requires retouch 1 - 2 x’s per year 60

Hydroxide Relaxers ___________________ is the active ingredient _____________________________________ are all types of hydroxide relaxers All______________________relaxers contain only 1 component & are used as packaged (no mixing) All have very strong alkalis Most have a__________________ & can _______________________________________ Sodium Hydroxide = ______________________ Potassium & Lithium = ____________________ Guanidine = _______________________________________ _______________________________________

Relaxers cont’d Guanidine relax hair with ______________________________ ______________________________ They swell the hair ________ than hydroxide Are also ____________, ______________________________ Generally sold as “at-home kits”

CAUTION / DANGER Hydroxide relaxers are ______________________ ______________________ ______________________ ______________________ ______________________ ______________________ 63

Hydroxide relaxers contd. Disulfide bonds consist of __________________ Lanthionine bonds contain only ______________ _______________________________________ _______________________________________ _______________________________________ That is why hair treated with hydroxide is unfit for permanent waving and will not hold curl

Low pH Relaxers Ammonium Sulfites & Bisulfites Compatible w/ Thio NOT compatible w/ Hydroxide Do not completely straighten hari Intended for use on damaged hair 65

Base and No-Base Relaxers ______________________________________________ ______________________________________________ _____________________________________________ No-base relaxers_______________ require this, they contain a protective base that as the relaxer is applied the body heat causes the protective base cream to melt and settle out onto the scalp in a thin, oily protective coating For added protection you can use additional base with no-base relaxers TIP: ______________________________ ______________________________ ______________________________

Relaxer Strengths Most are available in 3 strengths 1- __________________________________ __________________________________ 2- __________________________________ __________________________________ 3-Super – __________________________________ __________________________________ When in doubt ______________________

Strand Test Periodic testing during the processing will help to tell you when the hair has sufficiently relaxed __________________________________ __________________________________

Hydroxide Neutralization Unlike thio, ______________________________________________ ______________________________________________ Neutralization of hydroxide relaxers deactivates the alkaline residues left in the hair by the relaxer Hair remains at an extremely high pH even after rinsing the hair, ______________________________________________ ______________________________________________ ______________________________________________ ______________________________________________ Some neutralizing shampoos have a built-in pH indicator that changes color to show when the pH of the hair has returned to normal Application of a neutralizer that contains an oxidizing agent will not be of any benefit and will only damage the hair since the disulfide bonds do not need to be rebuilt

CAUTION Make sure that client has not had haircoloring containing metallic salts, such as gradual or progressive haircolors – extreme damage or breakage can occur __________________________________ __________________________________ _________________

Hydroxide Relaxer Procedures Although many steps for thio and hydroxide are the same, there are a few important differences Scalp and porous ends will _______________________________________ _______________________________________

Virgin Relaxer Used for hair that has not had previous chemical texture services Application starts______________________________ __________________________________ __________________________________ __________________________________

Retouch Application Used for hair that has had previous chemical services Starts _______________________________________ _______________________________________ Apply to scalp during the last few minutes Rarely on occasion the shaft may need additional straightening and should be protected with a strengthening solution (conditioner) and then the relaxer may be applied for a few minutes at the end of the service _______________________________________ _______________________________________

Neutralizing At the end of the processing time the hair must be ___________________________ __________________________________ __________________________________ __________________________________ __________________________________

Procedure Virgin Relaxer Wash hands Consultation Section and clip hair Protect client Begin application – wear gloves Base if necessary Apply relaxer to ¼ or ½ inch horizontal partings, to the underneath of the strand _____________________________________________________________ _____________________________________________________________ Test strand Apply or work the relaxer down to the scalp during the last few minutes Rinse thoroughly Shampoo with neutralizer Condition & style

Procedure for Retouch Is the same as virgin but you __________________________________

Soft Curl Reformation _________________________________ __________________________________ __________________________________ First hair received Thio relaxer service, then it is wrapped on large rods and receives a permanent wave __________________________________ Lasts until it grows out / retouch usually 6x’s per year 77

Analyze hair and have a through consultation prior to service Safety Precautions: Analyze hair and have a through consultation prior to service Examine scalp for abrasions or scratches Keep accurate recorders Have client sign a release statement Do not apply hydroxide on hair that has been treated with thio Do not apply thio on hair treated with hydroxide Do not treat hair that has been colored with metallic dye

______________________________ Do not relaxed damaged hair offer reconditioning services until hair is ok ______________________________ Apply a protective base cream to avoid scalp irritation Wear gloves Do not allow chemicals to come in contact with client’s eyes and skin - if it comes in contact immediately flush w/ water & refer to Dr. Perform periodic strand test 79

Do not allow relaxer to overlap onto previously relaxed hair Never use a strong relaxer on find or damaged hair ______________________________ ______________________________ Thoroughly rinse chemicals from hair (failure to rinse completely can cause severe chemical burns)

Completely neutralize Use a reconstructor conditioner Use wide tooth comb to avoid stretching & pulling Do not use excessive heat to style - ______________________________ Avoid scratching scalp 81

Keratin Straightening Treatment really a _________ treatment not as much of a ___________________ treatment aka “Brazilian Straightening” contain silicon polymers, formalin, & keratin proteins Keratin alone can not straighten hair _________________________________ Coating breaks down over time (semi- permanent) ok w/ Thio or Hydroxide 80

Eliminates up to ____________________ Not appropriate for extremely curly hair Can not shower for 72 hours after treatment Hair is shampooed, blown dry, keratin is applied, hair is blown dry again, & each section is flat ironed a minimum of 3 x’s Process usually takes 2-3 hours Lasts 3 - 5 months Cost $150 - $500 on average Great to seal in a semipermanent haircolor

Keratin treatments are very controversial b/c: _____________________________________________ _____________________________________________ some are marketed as formaldehyde free however they have been found to contain formalin or other aldehydes where are just another form of formaldehyde the amount of gas released during the process has the potential to exceed the maximum concentration allowed by OSHA of .75 parts per million (ppm) Dangerous b/c the flat ironing takes place so close to the face & b/c the stylist is exposed to repeated services and for long periods of time and the # of stylists performing the services at the same time Several products have been sited for causing deaths & have been outlawed by various state boards