Advanced Nail Techniques Chapter 23 Advanced Nail Techniques

The nail industry experienced great expansion when the first acrylic artificial nail extensions were introduced in the 1970’s. Cher started a trend of very long nails that were squared off on the ends. By the 1980’s , manufactures had developed product that created very natural looking artificial nails. At that time, the nail industry became the fastest growing area in the entire field of cosmetology, and it’s still growing today. In fact, the field of manicuring has grown and developed to such an extent that professionals are now known as nail technicians rather than manicurist. Nail techs or cosmetologists who fine-tune their skills with artificial nails earn a very good income.

We will explore the various techniques and procedures used to apply natural-looking nails as well as other advanced nail techniques. These procedures are beneficial to those individuals who cannot grow strong natural nails of the desired length. Artificial nails may be used to : Mend or conceal broken or damaged nails Improve the appearance of very short or badly shaped nails Help overcome the habit of nail biting Protect a nail or nails against splitting or breakage Advanced nails techniques such as wrapping with linen, silk or fiberglass can be used over natural nails just to make them stronger as well

Advanced nail techniques One of the first things we notice about someone is their hands and fingernails. With the technology of the 21st century, there is no reason for anyone to have unattractive nails. There are many ways that you, as a professional cosmetologist skilled in nail technology, can help your clients have better-looking hands

Pre-service consultation As with any other service you offer, a thorough client consultation should be conducted prior to offering any advanced nail technique The procedure is the same as for any other nail service consultation and is included in the pre-service procedure for artificial nails

Artificial Nails Nail tips Nail tip and overlay Pre-formed artificial nails applied to the tips of natural fingernails; commonly made of plastic, nylon or acetate Nail tip and overlay Any wrap, acrylic,or gel applied over the natural nail and nail tip to strengthen the nail and create a more permanent service

Artificial Nails Securing process Nail tips are secured to the natural nails with glue or bonding agents These agents come in either a tube with pointed applicator tip, a one-drop applicator or as a brush-on CAUTION: wear safety glasses to avoid getting even the smallest amount of glue in the client’s eyes or yours

Artificial Nails Tip construction Tips have a well that serves as the point of contact with the nail plate The position stop is the point where the nail plate meets the tip before it is glued to the nail Tips should never cover more than half of the natural nail plate

Artificial Nails Tip preparation Pre-bevel along the edge closest to the cuticle to thin out the plastic Pre-beveling requires less filing on the natural nail after application and cuts down potential for damage to the natural nail

Artificial Nails Nail wraps A corrective treatment that forms a protective coating or damaged or fragile nails Wraps can be applied over the natural nail or over a set of tips Silk Gives a smooth, even appearance; becomes transparent when adhesive is applied Fiberglass Thin synthetic mesh with a loose weave that makes it easy for adhesive to penetrate; it is strong and durable

Artificial Nails Linen Provides a durable wrap, but the coarse material requires a colored polish to cover the completed nail; thicker than silk or fiberglass; remains opaque even after adhesive is applied Paper Made of very thin paper and dissolve in both acetone and non-acetone remover; temporary, rarely used, and must be reapplied when polish is removed; glued to top of nail plate and under the free edge

Artificial Nails Availability Application Small swatches of mending material are available for custom cutting; pre-cut wraps with an adhesive backing are also available Application Glue is used to apply the wrap material An adhesive dryer may also be used

Liquid nail wrap This is a polish made with tiny fibers designed to strengthen and preserve the natural nail as it grows It is brushed on in several directions to create a network that, when hardened, protects the nail It is similar to nail hardener, though it is of a thicker consistency and contains more fiber

Acrylic Nails Often referred to as sculptured nails; created by combining a liquid acrylic product with a powdered product When joined, the two products form a soft ball that can be molded into a nail shape; can be applied over natural nails, over tips, or over paper or metal forms

Acrylic Nails Science of acrylic nails 3 basic ingredients Monomer Substance made up of many small molecules that are not attached to one another; liquid acrylic is a type of monomer Polymer Hard substance formed by combining many small molecules (monomers), usually in a long chair-like structure Polymers and monomers are developed from the same chemistry except that one remains in liquid form (monomer) while the other is powdered (polymer)

Acrylic Nails Catalyst Any substance having the powder to increase the velocity (speed) of a chemical reaction Powdered acrylic is a combination of ground-up polymer and a catalyst Process begins when the liquid from the brush picks up the powder from the jar The catalyst “explodes” when it comes in contact with the monomer, causing heat The heat starts a chain reaction from one polymer bead to the other This transfer continues until the last polymer beard receives heat This hardening process is also referred to as curing

Acrylic Nails Good ventilation required Primers You should also consider wearing a safety mask to prevent the inhalation of dust Primers Substance that improves adhesion, or attachment, and prepares the nail surface for bonding with the acrylic material Acid primer is widely used to help bind the acrylic to the natural nail Non-acid primer is noninvasive to the natural nail and not corrosive on the skin but may not be as effective as acid primer

Acrylic Nails Primers Dot on, do not brush on Do not over-prime It spreads evenly without having to brush over the entire nail surface Do not over-prime Overly primed nails can become too slick and can cause the acrylic to lift Allow primer to dry naturally Follow directions Wear gloves and safety glasses

Acrylic Nails over Forms Fills The application of acrylic product to the new growth of the natural nail Frequency Should be filled in every two o three weeks, depending upon how fast the natural nail grows Rebalancing During the fill, the shape of the nail should be redefined; this is called rebalancing

Gels Gels are strong, durable artificial nails that are brushed onto the nail plate Their chemical consistency is similar to acrylic products, but they require a separate catalyst to endure hardening Two types Light-cured Harden when exposed to a special light source, either ultraviolet or halogen No –light Harden when an activator or accelerator is sprayed or brushed on or when soaked in water Thicker glues that can be applied alone or over silk or fiberglass wraps

Dipped Nails Created by dipping the nail into acrylic powder Uses a cyanoacrylate rather than acrylic monomer Apply a thick brush-on glue to the nail surface Dip nail into powder or sprinkle on Reapply glue, dip again & glue again Some systems require an activator File and shape to finish polish

Drills Motorized implement with various attachments and speeds They are easy to use if fused properly Client’s hand should be held securely and drilling should occur slowly Uses General cleaning under nail Clean away peeling of natural nail Shape the curve of an acrylic nail Shorten the free edge of an artificial nail Work across the tip of fee edge only, NEVER use drill on top of natural nail

Drills Drill bits Cleaning bits Coarse, football-shaped Most commonly used Medium, cylinder-shaped Cleaning bits Soak in brush cleaner At least 1 to 2 hours or overnight Drill servicing should occur annually

Common problems with Artificial nails Separation from the natural nail near the cuticle or on the sides, it is called lifting Causes of lifting Etching Nail plate or inside of nail tip may not have been properly etched with coarse file Primer Not allowed to dry completely or was not applied according to the manufacturer’s instructions Product placement Applied or allowed to run onto the cuticle or sidewalls of the nail unit Improper mixture of product If acrylic product (monomer & polymer) is combined in either a too wet-wet or too-dry formulation, it will become brittle and lifting an occur

Common problems with Artificial nails Dust was not removed All duct must be removed from nail plate after etching, if it is not, lifting can occur Nails are too thick Product is applied to heavily, it will reduce flexibility and increase the possibility of lifting, especially if the client hits the nail against a hard surface Contaminated or oil product If any product, liquid, powder or primer, become contaminated or too old, their effectiveness will diminish and lifting an occur Nails are too long If client isn’t comfortable wearing extremely long nails, pressure can be caused at the cuticle resulting in lifting Fill schedule not followed Should be filled at least every 2-3 weeks, if they wait longer that that, the product adhesion can weaken and cause lifting

Common problems with Artificial nails Using acetone polish remover Acetone can weaken acrylic product as well as all wrap products Deleting glue application A coat of glue must be applied to the natural nail and allowed to dry completely before applying any wrap product Too many layers of silk/linen

Causes of breaking Stress area is too thin Contaminated or old product Ball of product applied at the stress area must be thicker (of medium consistency) as this is where the most stress will occur for the client when wearing acrylic nails Contaminated or old product Nails are too long for client Product consistency Product was either too wet or too dry causing brittleness resulting in breakage

Causes of breaking Product made too thin Acrylic product becomes too thin and brittle because an electric drill has been misused or over-used on the surface of the nail Fill or replacement schedule not followed Nails should be replaced every six months

Causes of peeling When the underside of the artificial nail separates from the natural nail at the free edge, it is known as peeling It can cause the entire sculptured nail to pop off It occurs primarily on clients with thin natural nails Applying a thin coat of glue on the underside of the natural nail will help strengthen or “thicken” the natural nail Fungus

Safety Precautions Use a new orangewood stick with each client Keep all products from touching the skin, they may cause sensitivities Keep alcohol nearby in case acrylic gets hot from the chemical action of the product Soften the edges on your abrasive, a new file can etch a groove in the nail during filing If you accidentally touch the nails after you apply antiseptic, you must clean them again and reapply Put on safety gloves and safety glasses, off safety glasses to your client

Safety Precautions Check primer for clarity on a regular basis to make sure it is not contaminated with bacteria. If bacteria is present, the primer will appear cloudy Use primer sparingly, it can cause irritation or primer burn if it touches the skin If you accidentally spill primer on your clothing, remove the soiled garment immediately Acrylic applied too thickly near the cuticle or touching the cuticle will lift

Safety Precautions Do not use a nipper to clip away loose cuticle. Nipper may make the lifting problem worse and can damage the nail plate. If lifting is excessive. Soak off the acrylic and start fresh with a new nail application Make sure bottles are tightly capped when not in use Do not store acrylic products near heat, or use near an open flame

Nail Art A way to offer endless creative opportunities and allow clients to express their unique personalities It can be conservative or flamboyant There are number of innovations to consider

Nail Art Gems Striping tape Foil Tiny rhinestones in different sizes, colors, shapes used for the design itself or as sparkling accents Striping tape Tacky-backed tape to create more linear or graphic designs; comes in a variety of widths, colors, and metallic finishes Foil Colored foils are pressed onto the entire nail or part of the nail

Nail Art Gold leaf or nuggets Air-brushing Freehand Comes in fragile sheets which are applied to the nail in large or tiny pieces Air-brushing An airbrush and a compressor combine air and paint to form an atomized spray for painting Stencils may be used to create scenes, graphics or fades Freehand A paintbrush and an endless palette of colors allows the technician to customize the client’s nails to any outfit or occasion

Summary We have learned that there is really no reason for someone who desires long, elegant-looking nails to not have them There are a wide variety of convenient and affordable techniques available that allow clients to extend or strengthen their own nails. As a cosmetologist or nail technician who offers nail care in your salon, you will want to fine-tune your skills and speed in these important services