Chapter 13 Clothing & Textiles Fabric Finishes Chapter 13 Clothing & Textiles

Finishing processes Finishes  any special treatments applied to improve a fabric’s appearance, texture, or performance

Color and design finishes Gray goods  when fabric first comes from the loom (no color)

Dyeing textiles Dyes  compounds that penetrate and color fibers Natural dyes Used for centuries Obtained from plants, insects, shellfish, and minerals First synthetic dye was discovered by accident in 1856

Five different methods used for dyeing Stock dyeing  natural fibers are dyed before they are spun into yarns Solution dyeing  used when manufactured fibers are produced, dye is added to the liquid solution that goes through the spinneret Yarn dyeing  yarns are dyed before weaving or knitting Piece dyeing  fabric is dyed after weaving or knitting Garment dyeing  the fabric is cut and sewn into the finished product and then the entire garment is dyed

Colorfastness Fabric that doesn’t fade, whether its been washed or exposed to chlorine or sunlight

Printing textiles Color is transferred to the surface of a fabric to form a pattern Four most common printing methods Screen Rotary screen Roller Heat transfer Other methods that you can try yourself are… Tie-dyeing Painting

Printing Textiles Screen printing See how Screen Printing is done at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VbzKLUl48Yk

Printing textiles Roller printing See how it’s done at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m8W2g-YvjPw

Printing textiles Rotary screen printing See how it’s done at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R04Dbm3ZRAE

Printing textiles Heat-transfer printing See how its done at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t4byFS15S8s

Texture finishes Calendaring  fabric passes between two heated rollers that smooth the fabric and improve the luster

Texture finishes Glazing  resin applied during calendaring to produce a high polish or glaze on the surface Embossing fabric is given a raised design on the surface Embossing fabric example below…

Texture finishes Cire (suh-RAY)  a super-glossy finish is obtained by applying wax or some other substance before calendaring

Texture finishes Moiré (Mwah-RAY)  a watered or wavy pattern is obtained by calendaring two layers of fabric slightly off grain

Texture finishes Napping  rotating wire brushes raise the short fiber ends of staple yarns to create a soft and fuzzy surface called the nap

Textile finishes Stone washing and acid washing  pumice stones are added to a mass- production laundering process

Textile finishes Mercerization  gives cotton added luster, strength, and drape ability. It also improves fabrics affinity for dye. Fabrics and yarns are treated with a caustic soda or lye solution

Textile finishes Sizing  starches or resins are added to the fabric for extra body, usually only a temporary finish

Performance finishes Antibacterial or antiseptic  checks the growth of bacteria and fungi, such as mold and mildew Antistatic  by absorbing small amounts of moisture from the air, this finish reduces the fabric dryness that causes static electricity Crease-resistant  Applied to fabrics that wrinkle easily (cotton, rayon, linen) Durable press  garments maintain a pressed appearance despite repeated washings and wearings Flame-resistant and flame-retardant  reduce flaming or burning of fabrics exposed to a flame or high heat

Performance finishes Mothproof  repels moths and other fiber eating insects Shrinkage control  MINIMIZES shrinking Soil release  dirt and stains release more easily from the fabric Water- and stain-repellent  yarns are coated with a chemical that repels water and other liquids Waterproof  fabrics have been coated or treated so that no water penetrates