The Role of the Ecolabel in textiles 2011 Nicholas Paxevanos April 28th 2011 Estonia

EU Ecolabel Workshop 2011 Topics Current situation Why the ecolabel Support SCP/SIP Benefits/success stories GPP Criteria Application process Common sense and responsibility

EU Ecolabel Workshop 2011 C urrent situation Textile licences EU / International CLCBCL AT 45AU1 BE 11CN1 CZ 44EG2 DE 55HK1 DK 1937ID2 EE 11IN2 GR 22KR1 ES 11MY1 FR 12NZ1 LT 11TR3 UK 33TH4 IT 14 NO 22 PL 22 PT 44 SE 1011 Total products = 1353

EU Ecolabel Workshop 2011 Why the Ecolabel Support The Ecolabel is moving ahead and it is an important instrument for… Supporting the SCP and SIP Action plans “Promoting sustainable products and reducing Environmental damage” Work on promoting the Ecolabel is carried out on both National level (Competent Bodies) and stakeholders EU level ( EUEB is the administrator and is supported by the commisssion) Through  PR, Marketing, fairs, Brochures GPP etc. UNEP is also supporting the Ecolabel – 5 year project

EU Ecolabel Workshop 2011 Why the Ecolabel GPP and the Ecolabel  Public Procurement accounts for 17% of EU wide (GDP) Gross Domestic Product equivalent to 2 trillion Euros  European Commission “Europe 2020 strategy” ( growth strategy– sustainable -reducing Co2 emissions). GPP an important instrument On 27 January, the European Commission has launched a public consultation on the modernisation of EU public procurement policy. The results of the consultation will provide input to the Commission for the preparation of the future legislative proposal on the reform of the EU public procurement rules.  GPP made easier for Public Purchasers No expert knowledge required Fully compatible with the principles of the international market Easy identification GPP Training Toolkit Handbook on Green Public Procurement Leaflet on GPP and the EU Ecolabel Ready made Criteria: Uniform throughout the member states

EU Ecolabel Workshop 2011 Why the Ecolabel GPP Member states situation GPP elementMember State implementation (June 2010) National Action Plan or equivalent document adopted 21: Austria, Belgium, Cyprus, Czech Republic, Denmark, Finland, France, Germany, Italy, Latvia, Lithuania, Luxembourg, Malta, Netherlands, Poland, Portugal, Slovakia, Slovenia, Spain, Sweden, UK NAP in process of preparation 6: Bulgaria, Estonia, Greece, Ireland, Hungary, Romania Targets/criteria adopted21 MS Market analysis conducted9 MS Communication and dissemination activities 9 MS Training activities18 MS Monitoring11 MS GPP - Legally binding Portugal, Germany (for wood and LCC use), Czech Republic (IT) Mandatory political obligation18 MS

EU Ecolabel Workshop 2011 Why the Ecolabel Benefits  Improve your company image  Differentiate your products  Competitive Advantage  Retain Customers loyalty  Access to marketing events/on-line catalogue  A tool for GPP Stay ahead of the competition – meet public sector environmental purchasing demands Expand your market – do business with public authorities across Europe Reduce the burden of responding to public tenders – use the Flower as an easy proof of environmental compliance Put your products on a short list  A Tool in other areas: CSR, Env. Management, LCA Gain new customers Save money in the long run

EU Ecolabel Workshop 2011 Why the Ecolabel Retailer Trends The Retail sector represents about 11% of EUs GDP Individual chains: Want to be seen as Environmentally concerned The Retail Forum: Launched 2009 – support SCP/SIP Action plans - Includes the biggest chains Benefits for Retailers/Customers Easy to choose a product Environmental Health Quality Internationally : Wal-Mart, Levi Strauss, Esprit, H&M … are working together to find a common standard for sustainable clothing

EU Ecolabel Workshop 2011 Examples of GPP in Denmark GPP is flourishing in Denmark Public sector: There are 97 municipalities: 16% of GNP, 270 billion DKK Hospitals, municipalities, ministries, post, police, army etc. Set requirements for textile products: Technical, Quality, environmental, etc. Offer a Tender Award criteria %: Price = 50/60% Environment = 15% (changing constantly) Elderly care has about 600,000 employees: All denim for these employees must adhere to Flower criteria Almost 80% of all cleaning products and services procured in Denmark are certified by an ISO type I Ecolabel. CO2 reduction of 43%. Cost reduction of 3% There is a network for GPP consisting of municipalities The Competent Body is active and offers consultancy services for GPP

EU Ecolabel Workshop 2011 Case Examples Textiles: Private Sector High QualityConsumer Health Safe Environmental performance Thong Thai Textile

EU Ecolabel Workshop 2011 Case Examples Textiles: Private Sector Examples Private sector KRENHOLM Estonian Winning tenders The process supply chain is controlled for PENFABRIC Actively promoting the Ecolabel Keeping customers loyalty Promoting through their work zone range Lithuanian Australian meeting demand Supplying various EU customers

EU Ecolabel Workshop 2011 Textile Criteria Development of Textile Criteria Responsible CB Development process (CB /stakeholders) Criteria overview Fibres: Natural fibres, man made fibres …. (pesticides, toxic residues, emissions) Chemicals and processes: Spinning, weaving, dyeing/printing… (Harmful substances: environment/health) Fitness for use ( Quality: dimensional change, colour fastness.. ) Waste Water Treatment: Ph 6-9, COD > 20 g/kg Energy use The process supply chain is controlled for

EU Ecolabel Workshop 2011 The Application Process Textile Manual:  Part A: Are the general application forms  Part B and Part C: : Consist of different forms/declarations that must be properly filled in with the right documentation attached. Important things to remember in the Application process 1.Make a flow chart 2.Determine what documentation should be sent to whom 3.Check waste water 4.Inform the suppliers 5.Collect and check the documentation sent 6.Organise/file and complete the documentation 7.Fill out the application forms (Part A,B) and send them to the selected CB Where to apply

EU Ecolabel Workshop 2011 The Application Costs Where to apply FeesMinMaxReductions Application fee covers the costs of processing the application. EUR 200EUR Max. EUR 600 for SMEs and applicants from developing countries Max. EUR 350 for micro- enterprises 20% reduction for companies registered under EMAS or certified under ISO Annual fee for the use of the Ecolabel equals EUR 1500Max. EUR 750 for SMEs and applicants from developing countries Max. EUR 350 for micro- enterprises

Thank you for the attention Bucharest Questions Comments Sense for your Company Responsibility to the Environment