Methods, Safety, and Tools

Cold Working Warm Glass Hot Glass

Methods of Work in Glass Cold Working Cold glass mainly refers to stained glass. In stained glass the artist uses sheet glass and joins them using copper foils and soldering. Warm Glass Warm glass starts out very similar to cold glass in that the artist stacks pieces of glass into a desired design then places the piece into the kiln in order to melt or fuse the glass into a solid piece. Hot Glass Hot Glass is melted in the furnace and is poured into a mold or taken out on a pipe and blown.

Tips for working safely with glass!

Safety Matters! Kiln-formed glass can be hot. Be careful around the kiln. Wear safety glasses when cutting glass. Wear glasses that block infrared rays (welder’s glasses will do) if looking into the kiln. When grinding glass ALWAYS wear a dust mask or better yet, a particle respirator. Use Kevlar or welding gloves when handling warm materials. Keep a fire extinguisher handy as well as some band-aids. NEVER brush glass off your work area with your hands. Keep a brush handy, or use your vac. WASH & DRY tables after brushing. Don’t put glass remnants into your regular trash without covering with a protective covering, so other people won’t get cut. Wear an apron to protect your clothing—GENTLY shake it out over a garbage can BEFORE putting it away.

Safety Matters! ABSOLUTELY NO FOOD IN THE ROOM!!! Drinks MUST have lids or be otherwise covered. No headphones/earbuds while soldering or grinding. NO HORSEPLAY! BE ALERT, SERIOUS & RESPONSIBLE!!! This is not an exhaustive list--Additional rules, tips, and/or guidelines may follow at any time.

Handy Tools Glass cutter: A tool consisting of a handle and a beveled cutting wheel. The wheel may be constructed of either steel or tungsten carbide, and rotates freely on its axis. There are two main types: one which has a reservoir for oil and a dry cutter. I recommend dipping your cutter, regardless of type, into a small container of cutting oil as the reservoir type have a tendency to leak.

Handy Tools Glass cutter: A tool consisting of a handle and a beveled cutting wheel. The wheel may be constructed of either steel or tungsten carbide, and rotates freely on its axis. There are two main types: one which has a reservoir for oil and a dry cutter. I recommend dipping your cutter, regardless of type, into a small container of cutting oil as the reservoir type have a tendency to leak.

Handy Tools Cutting Oil: Oil is used to protect the cutting blade when cutting glass. Shown is a specialty oil for glass cutters, however any type of oil can be used.

Handy Tools Running Pliers: are used to apply even pressure to both sides of a fresh score. They have a center mark that must be lined up with the score.

Handy Tools Running Pliers: are used to apply even pressure to both sides of a fresh score. They have a center mark that must be lined up with the score.

Handy Tools Grozier Pliers: have serrated jaws that allow you to chip away at surplus glass. They can also be used to help grip the glass and to assist in breaking glass. One jaw is flat and the other is curved. By using the curved jaw on top you can “nibble” away at the edge of the glass. By using the flat jaw on top you can break the glass at the score line by positioning the flat jaw near the score line and holding the other side with you hand, break the glass using a downward motion.

Handy Tools Grozier Pliers: have serrated jaws that allow you to chip away at surplus glass. They can also be used to help grip the glass and to assist in breaking glass. One jaw is flat and the other is curved. By using the curved jaw on top you can “nibble” away at the edge of the glass. By using the flat jaw on top you can break the glass at the score line by positioning the flat jaw near the score line and holding the other side with you hand, break the glass using a downward motion.

Handy Tools Tile nippers: are generally used for cutting small pieces of tile, however they can be used for cutting small pieces of glass. Usually they are used to cut irregular pieces of glass as they do not cut nice straight lines.

Handy Tools Tile nippers: are generally used for cutting small pieces of tile, however they can be used for cutting small pieces of glass. Usually they are used to cut irregular pieces of glass as they do not cut nice straight lines.

Handy Tools Bullseye ThinFire Paper: is similar to kiln wash in that will protect your kiln shelf. It can only be used once as it turns to dust after firing.

Instructions on how to score and cut glass and some helpful hints for designing your glass work …

Scoring & Cutting Glass Wash and dry the glass to remove any particles that may interfere with the glass cutter. Either tape your pattern to the underside of the glass or draw directly on the glass using either a grease pencil or wet erase marker. Dip your cutter into a cotton ball soaked with a lubricant. This will help your cutter glide on the glass and give you a nicer, smoother cut. Place the glass cutter on the glass with the wheel perpendicular to the surface. Start at one edge of the glass and lightly move the glass cutter along the longest straight line of your cut. DO NOT START A SCORE IN THE MIDDLE OF A PIECE OF GLASS! ALWAYS START ON AN EDGE!! BUT DON”T START RIGHT ON THE EDGE!!

Scoring & Cutting Glass Orient your running pliers with the score indicator line face up. The indicator line is a black line in the middle of one side of the tip. Apply light pressure to the score using the running pliers. This should break the glass into two pieces. Repeat steps 4 & 5 until you have completed the cut you designed. Wash off any marks you may have made using a grease pencil or Sharpie marker. THEY WILL NOT BURN OFF IN THE KILN!!!!

Tips for Successful Scoring When choosing which side of the glass to score, look for the shiny side or smooth side. The wheel of the cutter should be perpendicular to the glass. A score should look like a strand of hair, not grains of sand. You only have to break the surface tension. Once the surface tension is broken, the glass will break.

Some Helpful Design Tips … Think about the finished piece. Are you going to make a flat wall hanging or are you going to make a bowl? This decision will lead how you design your piece. Remember the Elements of Art and Principles of Design. They apply here!! Pay attention to the flow of the piece. Does your eye hit every element in the piece in an orderly manner?

Definitions, Firing Schedule, and Helpful Hints

Definitions Assembly: A project generally begins with a base layer with a design layer on top, including glass accents, border details and focal elements. Flat Firing: After assembly, the project is placed in the kiln and slowly taken from room temperature up to degrees Fahrenheit. Different effects can be created by combining the variables of time and temperature. Slumping: Once your design is fused into a single flat unit, the project can be returned to the kiln and heated just to its softening point (about 1235°F), causing it to sag over or into a mold. This transforms the flat [2D] piece into a functional or artistic 3D piece. From: Spectrum Glass – Getting Started with Kiln-Fired Glass

A Note About Compatibility Glass expands when it is heated and contracts when it cools. Glass from different manufacturers has a distinct rate at which it expands and contracts, called the Coefficient of Expansion (C.O.E.). Spectrum has developed a line of glass that has been tested compatible. This means you can mix different pieces into one piece. If you don’t know the C.O.E. of a piece of a glass, don’t mix it with other pieces! You can cut a single piece of glass and use those pieces together however, you cannot mix pieces from two separate panes. From: Spectrum Glass – Getting Started with Kiln-Fired Glass

Glass Components - Definitions Blanks: Base Layer for projects. Sheet Glass: Assorted transparent, opalescent, and specialty glass.

Glass Components - Definitions Stringers: Assorted colors of thin strands of glass. Frit: Ground glass. Dichroic Glass: Glass that has been coated with a special metallic component.

Assembling Your Project After you have cut out all of your components assemble them onto a glass blank. The blank will support your project as you assemble it and move it. Use Elmer’s Glue sparingly to prevent shifting as you move your project. PINPOINTS applied with a toothpick is plenty. If you use too much glue it will char. Use kiln-shelf paper under every project. This prevents sticking and provides a consistent surface. Size the kiln shelf paper to about ¼” beyond the edges of your project, to allow for expansion. From: Spectrum Glass – Getting Started with Kiln-Fired Glass