Characteristics of Normal and Damaged Hair Texture – This is the size or diameter of a single hair. Course Hair Medium Hair Fine Hair

Porosity : The ability of the hair to absorb moisture This is related to the condition of the hair and whether it has been chemically treated (permed or coloured). Porosity is all about the condition of the cuticle, which is the outside layer of the hair.

Resistant -The cuticle layer is tightly closed. The hair looks shiny or glassy. The hair is in good condition Normal -The cuticle is slightly open.

Porous -The cuticle is more open. The hair is a bit dull looking, and feels slightly rough. The ends are dry possibly because of tinting, or a lot of exposure to sun and swimming. Extremely Porous -The cuticle is very open and damaged. The hair is very dull and dry. Usually this hair is double processed. Eg: has had both a perm and tint. Or the hair is bleached.

FACTORS AFFECTING HAIR COLOUR

Melanin Melanin is the colour pigment granules of skin and hair. Melanin is produced by special cells where the germinal matrix joins the papilla called melanocytes.

MELANIN NATURAL COLOUR PIGMENTS

Melanocytes Melanocytes secrete melanin into cells of the hair shaft soon after they are formed to give hair its colour.

GERMINAL MATRIX

Factors affecting Hair Colour Type of Melanin Amount of Melanin Position of Melanin Heredity

Types of Melanin There are two types of melanin found in the hair: Eumelanin (black & brown) Pheomelanin (red& yellow)

EUMELANIN & PHEOMELANIN

Factors affecting Natural Pigment Hereditary The colour of our hair is influenced by our genetic background and racial backgrounds.

BLOND HAIR Mainly YELLOW pigments Small amount of brown Tiny amount red & black

RED HAIR Mainly RED & YELLOW pigments Fewer brown & black

DARK BROWN HAIR Contains more pigment Equal mix of all types

Absence of Pigment in Skin and Hair Canities Is the result of a breakdown in normal pigment production in the melanocytes. Canities is hair that contains no pigment ( white hair) the melanocytes at the base of the follicle stop producing melanin.

Albinism Tends to appear in certain families. Albinos have no pigment in their hair, skin and eyes, and because of this have a low tolerance to sunlight.

WHITE HAIR CANITIES- melanocytes cease production natural aging ALBINISM –complete lack of pigment

Factors affecting CHEMICAL REFORMATION

Alkaline Perm Solutions Ammonium Thioglycollate (alkaline solution) Ammonium Hydroxide   Swells and softens the hair Opens the cuticle

+ Thioglycollic Acid Penetrates into cortex and breaks the bonds that hold the hair in its original position.

Alkaline solutions are suitable for: Resistant/hard to wave hair Chemically untreated hair Tinted or mildly porous hair

Acid perm solutions The active ingredient in acid perms is glyceryl monothioglycolate PH 6.9-7.2

Glycerol monothioglycolate (acid perm solution) Thioglycollic acid Penetrates into cortex and breaks the bonds that hold the hair in its original position. + Glycerine

ACID SOLUTIONS ARE SUITABLE FOR: Sensitised or damaged hair All hair textures particularly fine hair