Chapter 26 Pedicuring

Learning Objectives Describe the equipment used when performing pedicures. Identify materials only used when performing pedicures. Describe the function of callus softener in a pedicure. (continues) 2

Learning Objectives (continued) Explain the differences between a basic pedicure and a spa pedicure. Define reflexology and its use during a pedicure. Summarize the importance of cleaning and disinfecting a pedicure bath. WHY STUDY PEDICURING? It will enable you to add this very desirable service to your service offerings. It is important to differentiate between the various pedicure tools and to know how they are properly used. It will allow you to perform a pedicure safely and correctly.

Introduction This chapter will provide the skills you need to perform beautification and routine care on your clients’ feet, toes, and toenails. Pedicures are now a basic part of good foot care and hygiene and are particularly important for clients who spend a lot of time standing on his or her feet. Pedicures are not merely manicures on the feet. Pedicures require specific skills; more knowledge of chronic illnesses, disorders, and diseases; and knowledge of the additional precautions for performing the service. INTRODUCTION This chapter will provide the skills you need to perform beautification and routine care on your clients’ feet, toes, and toenails. Pedicures are now a basic part of good foot care and hygiene and are particularly important for clients who are joggers, dancers, and cosmetologists or for anyone who spends a lot of time standing on his or her feet. Pedicures are not merely manicures on the feet. Although the basic services are similar, pedicures require specific skills; more knowledge of chronic illnesses, disorders, and diseases; and knowledge of the additional precautions for performing the service.

LESSON ACTIVITY 1 Discuss the importance of foot care and nail care. Have a discussion about how proper foot care affects comfort while wearing shoes. 5

Pedicuring Pedicure – cosmetic services performed on the feet by a licensed nail technician or cosmetologist Includes trimming, shaping, and polishing toenails; exfoliating skin; and massaging the feet and legs PEDICURING A pedicure is a cosmetic service performed on the feet by a licensed nail technician or cosmetologist that includes trimming, shaping, and polishing toenails; exfoliating skin; and massaging the foot. 6

Tools and Materials Used During Pedicures Equipment – permanent tools that are not implements Implements – used to perform services Materials – disposable supplies Products – cosmetic products used during services 7

Equipment Pedicure station Pedicure stool and foot rest Pedicure foot bath Pedicure carts Courtesy of European Touch. EQUIPMENT Equipment includes all permanent tools used to perform nail services that are not implements. Some permanent equipment for performing pedicures is different from equipment for manicures. Pedicure station includes a comfortable chair with armrest and footrest for the client and an ergonomic chair for the technician. Pedicure stool and footrest is used to maintain a healthy posture. The pedicuring stool is usually low to make it ergonomically easier for the pedicurist to work on the client’s feet. Some will come with an built-in foot rest. The seat must be comfortable and allow ergonomically correct positioning. Pedicure foot baths vary from a basic stainless steel basin to automatic whirlpools that warm and massage. Pedicure carts are designed to keep supplies organized.   (continues) 8

Equipment (continued) Electric foot mitts Mask Terry cloth mitts Paraffin bath Hot stones EQUIPMENT (continued) Electric foot mitts (optional): Heated mitts, similar to electric manicure mitts but shaped for the feet, designed to add a special touch to a more-than-basic pedicure. Electric foot mitts are sometimes used when using a treatment mask is part of the service. Mask, also known as a masque, is a concentrated treatment product often composed of mineral clays, moisturizing agents, skin softeners, aromatherapy oils, botanical extracts, and other beneficial ingredients to cleanse, exfoliate, tighten, tone, hydrate, and nourish the skin. Terry cloth mitts (optional): Washable reusable mitts are placed over the feet after a penetrating conditioning product and cover has been applied. Paraffin bath (optional): This is a wonderful add-on treatment that stimulates circulation, reduces inflammation, and seals the surface of the skin to promote deeper penetration. Hot stones: Optional service. Hot stones are generally used in pedicures, not manicures, though they can be incorporated into manicures also. Hot stone pedicures are usually an upscale service included in the massage of the feet and legs. Basalt stones are smooth and typically basalt, a dark, fine-grained volcanic rock. 9

Implements Toenail clippers Toenail nippers Curette Nail rasp Pedicure nail file Foot files or paddles IMPLEMENTS Implements are specific for pedicures. Toenail clippers: Larger than fingernail clippers and are specifically designed for shortening toenails Curette: This is an implement with a small, scoop-shaped end used to remove debris from the nail folds, eponychium, and hyponichium. See figure 26–12. Nail rasp: This is a metal file used to file in only one direction. Pedicure nail file. They are used to shorten toenails. Foot files or pedicure paddles. These are designed to smooth foot calluses.   10

Materials Toe separators Pedicure slippers 11 MATERIALS Materials can also be used for manicuring; however, some are specific for pedicures. Toe separators: Made of foam rubber or cotton and are used to keep toes apart while polishing the nails. Pedicure slippers: Used for clients who have not worn open-toed shoes to the service. 11

Professional Pedicure Products Foot soaks Exfoliating scrubs Masks Foot lotions or creams Callus softeners Urea; salicylic acid; potassium hydroxide © Pavels Rumme/Shutterstock.com PROFESSIONAL PEDICURE PRODUCTS Many of the same products used in manicuring are also used for pedicuring. Foot soaks: Put the feet in water to soften skin. Exfoliating scrubs: Used to reduce dry, flaky skin and reduce calluses. Masks: Often composed of mineral clays, moisturizing agents, skin softeners, aromatherapy oils, botanical extracts, and other beneficial ingredients to cleanse, exfoliate, tighten, tone, hydrate, and nourish the skin. Foot lotions or creams: Used to moisturize the skin of the feet, soften-calluses, and provide slip during massage. Callus softeners: Used to soften and smooth thickened skin. There are three common active ingredients which are as follows: Urea: An organic compound that has a super-hydrating effect on skin cells. Salicylic acid: An organic acid that derives originally from the bark of willow trees. It has anti-inflammatory properties and has the ability to break down fats and lipids. Potassium hydroxide: An organic compound that degrades the protein in the callus cells. 12

Know All About Pedicures Choosing pedicure products Service menu Interaction during the service Scheduling Series pedicures KNOW ALL ABOUT PEDICURES The service must be practiced to be perfected. Like all other nail services, the pedicure must include pre-service and post-service procedures, catered to the nail service given. See Procedure 25-1, Pre-Service Procedure, found on page 880 of Milady Standard Cosmetology. See Procedure 25-2 Post-Service Procedure, found on page 884 of Milady Standard Cosmetology. See Procedure 26-1, Performing the Basic Pedicure, found on page 918 of Milady Standard Cosmetology. Service menu: Tailor it to client requests. Interaction during the service: Allow clients to relax. Follow the client’s lead with respect to discussion, while keeping in mind to not discuss politics, personal issues, religion, and do not give legal or medical advice. Scheduling: Time individual steps to pace your procedure and stay on schedule. Series pedicures: Used to reduce calluses; occur weekly between monthly full pedicure appointments. (continues) 13

Know All About Pedicures (continued) Spa pedicure Elderly clients Pedicure pricing KNOW ALL ABOUT PEDICURES (continued) Spa pedicure: Exceeds a basic pedicure with lower leg massage, using a mask, and/or aromatherapy lotions, oils, paraffin, or other specialty products. Elderly clients need more frequent foot care than others, and many require exceptionally gentle care. Never cut their tissues or push back the eponychium as even a microscopic opening, or microtrauma, can be fatal for these clients. Discuss health issues with them; do not perform pedicures on diabetics or on people with circulatory diseases without their physician’s permission. Pedicure pricing: Determine the price of a basic pedicure first and upscale from there. (continues) 14

Know All About Pedicures (continued) Pedicure massage Reflexology Ergonomics KNOW ALL ABOUT PEDICURES (continued) Pedicure massage Massage is the manual or mechanical manipulation of the body by rubbing, gently pinching, kneading, tapping, and other movements. Perfect your style so that it becomes second nature to you. See Procedure 26-2, Foot and Leg Massage, found on page 921 of Milady Standard Cosmetology. Reflexology: A unique method of applying pressure with the thumb and index fingers to the hands and feet and demonstrates health benefits. Ergonomics: The science related to man and his work, embodying the anatomic, physiologic, and mechanical principles affecting the efficient use of human energy. 15

Properly Clean and Disinfect Foot Spas Whirlpool foot spas Air-Jet foot spas Pipeless foot spas Non-whirlpool basins (tubs, footbaths, sinks, and bowls) PROPERLY CLEAN AND DISINFECT FOOT SPAS Be sure to follow your state’s guidelines See Procedure 5–2, Cleaning and Disinfecting Whirlpool, Air-Jet, and Pipeless Foot Spas, found on page 99 of Milady Standard Cosmetology. 16

Summary and Review It is important to learn about toenail equipment and supplies. It is important to learn about pedicuring nail services and the infection control that accompanies them. If a student would like to continue their nail education, they can learn advanced techniques from their instructor, trade magazines, and beauty shows. SUMMARY AND REVIEW It is important to learn about toenail equipment and supplies. It is important to learn about pedicuring nail services and the infection control that accompanies them. If a student would like to continue their nail education, they can learn advanced techniques from their instructor, trade magazines, and beauty shows. 17

Chapter Review Questions List at least five unique pieces of equipment used in pedicures. Describe two specialty materials used when performing pedicures. What is a callus softener and how is it used? Explain the differences between a basic pedicure and a spa pedicure. CHAPTER REVIEW QUESTIONS 1. List at least five unique pieces of equipment used in pedicures. Answer: Five pieces equipment for a pedicure would include a pedicure stool, footrest, pedicure foot bath, pedicure cart, and electric foot mitts.  2. Describe two specialty materials used when performing pedicures. Answer: Two specialty materials used when performing pedicures would be terry cloth mitts and paraffin bath.  3. What is a callus softener and how is it used? Answer: A callus softener is designed to soften and smooth thickened tissue and are applied directly to the client’s calluses.  4. Explain the differences between a basic pedicure and a spa pedicure. Answer: A spa pedicure would follow the procedure of a basic pedicure and also include an exfoliation, a mask, and the massage would include the lower leg and foot. 18

Chapter Review Questions (continued) Define reflexology and explain how it is used in pedicuring. Why is cleaning and disinfection of pedicure baths important?  List the steps in a basic pedicure. List the steps in a foot and leg massage. CHAPTER REVIEW QUESTIONS (continued) 5. Define reflexology and explain how it is used in pedicuring. Answer: Reflexology is a unique method of applying pressure to the feet that has demonstrated health benefits. 6. Why is cleaning and disinfection of pedicure baths important? Answer: There are specific criteria and steps that must be followed exactly to ensure proper disinfection and infection control. Improper, rushed, or careless cleaning of the pedicure bath may lead to health and safety concerns for salon clients 7. List the steps in a basic pedicure. Answer: The steps of a pedicure are: Have client soak feet, dry feet, remove polish, clip nails, use nail rasp if needed only on big toe nail, file nails, buff nails, apply cuticle remover and callus remover and wrap foot in towel, use foot file to exfoliate, push cuticles back, exfoliate foot with scrub, brush nails with nail brush, apply lotion and massage, remove traces of lotion with polish remover, and apply polish. 8. List the steps in a foot and leg massage. Answer: Apply lotion all over the foot, apply circular movements at the bottom of the foot, apply knuckle twists on the bottom of the foot, move the toes in a circular motion, and then use an effleurage movement to finish. 19