Ocean Waves.

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Ocean Waves and Tides.

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Presentation transcript:

Ocean Waves

Ocean storm –”sea”

Ship in a Storm

Rogue Wave

“Beach”

Wave Characteristics Wave length (L) Wave height (H) Wave period (T) Wave speed: C = L/T

Global Wind Speed Global Wave Height Do you see a correlation, a connection?

Wind is the main source of most waves Stronger winds = bigger waves When might you expect to see some really big waves?

Breakers

Wave Transformation

Wave Transformation 1. Waves break on the shore because they run out of room and all of their energy crashes in.

“Big Wave” Most ocean waves are caused by wind. Your Turn…..answer the questions in your notes

Types of Breakers 3. The type of breaker (wave) depends on the slope of the shoreline. Plunging waves break when the shoreline slope is moderate Spilling waves break when the shoreline slope is gentle Surging Waves break when the shoreline slope is steep

Spillers Crashing wave where there is a gentle slope.

Plungers Crashing wave where there is a moderate slope.

Surging Breakers Crashing wave where there is a very steep slope.

4. Coastal Terminology Accretion: A gradual deposition by water of mud, sand to form dry land. Erosion: Natural action of waves and current over a long period of time, sand is moved/transported. Avulsion: A sudden & rapid change in shoreline

Coastline Features Erosion Accretion How are they different?

Wave action continuously changes the shape of the shoreline 6. A Long shore current hits the shore at an angle and sand is moved. This is why the water carries you up or down the shoreline when you are at the beach.

Longshore Currents

Longshore current

Summer & Winter Profile

Changing Beach Profiles

Let’s compare and contrast… Why does the East Coast and West Coast have different sized waves?

Coastal Development

Storm Generated Waves

Wave Erosion

Coastal Features

Coastal Features

Sea Arch

Sea Stacks

Sand Dunes

Tidal Bulges How does the moon stay in Earth’s orbit? How does the gravitational pull affect our ocean tides?

How many high tides are on Earth at any time? How many low tides?

Neap Tide

Spring Tide

Spring & Neap Tides