FASH 15 textiles yarn classification
yarns contribute significantly to fabric and product performance selection affects the fabric’s hand, appearance, drape, durability, comfort & many other areas of performance
fiber length spun yarn —composed of short-staple fibers that are twisted or otherwise bonded together; fuzzy yarn with protruding ends filament yarn —composed of long fibers grouped together or slightly twisted smooth filament yarns —straight, almost parallel fibers textured-bulk-filament yarns —uniformly bulky
yarn twist twist— spiral arrangement of fibers around yarn’s axis produced by rotating one end while holding the other stationary binds fibers together & contributes to strength Specified by number of turns per unit length—turns per inch (tpi) or turns per meter (tpm) direction—
yarn twist amount of twist— low twist —used to maintain integrity within smooth, multi-filament yarns; 1-2 turns per inch napping twist —lofty spun yarns used in filling yarns of napped fabrics average twist —most common for staple fiber yarns; most durable spun yarns hard twist —harsher hand & more turns per inch crepe yarns —highest tpi; 40-80; twist & kink when removed from fabric
yarn size yarn number —size or fineness filament yarns—weight per unit length spun yarns—length per unit weight; generally the finer the yarn, the larger the number denier system — describes yarn size using filament fibers weight in grams per 9,000 meters tex system — determines yarn number in the same way for all yarns weight in grams per 1,000 meters
yarn regularity describes the uniformity of the yarn throughout its length in terms of appearance & structure simple yarns — alike in all its parts spun or filament yarn single yarn — one strand simplest type
yarn regularity—simple yarns ply yarn — made by second twisting operation that combines two or more singles cord — made by third twisting operation which twists ply yarns together rope — heavy thick cord as least 2.5 cm or 1 inch or more in diameter that is twisted or braided together
yarn regularity—sewing & embroidery thread sewing thread — yarn intended for stitching materials together available in broad range of sizes & structures often finished with lubricant or wax most sewing thread is S twist embroidery thread — yarn intended for stitching designs or patterns on textile surface most often 2-ply, Z twist
yarn regularity—fancy yarns yarns that deliberately have unlike parts and are irregular at intervals irregularities may be subtle or very obvious intervals may be regular or random classified according to number of parts named for effect that dominates fabric
yarn regularity—fancy yarns
tweed yarn slub yarn spiral or corkscrew ratine yarns knot, spot, nub, or knop spike or snarl loop, curl or boucle yarn metallic chenille braided knit stitched
yarn regularity—composite yarns have both staple-fiber & filament fiber components include: covered yarns —central yarn completely covered by fiber or another yarn core-spun yarns —spun sheath of staple fibers around a core filament wrapped yarns (wrap-spun)—have staple fiber core, wrapped or bound by filament fibers multi-polymer yarns —produced by pressing staple fibers of any length or generic class in molten polymer stream fasciated yarns —grouping of filament fibers wrapped with staple fibers
yarn performance & yarn quality identified and measured so that appropriate yarn is used in fabric & product standard test methods determine: yarn size twist bulk evenness appearance performance yarn quality refers to various factors such as strength and uniformity—more parallel fibers, tighter twist, more regular
participation activity— fancy yarns identification …using pgs in the text, define the following types of fancy yarns: tweed yarn slub yarn spiral or corkscrew ratine yarns knot, spot, nub, or knop spike or snarl …select 7 different fancy yarns from “yarn grab bag” …mount them to your yarn identification sheet …identify them using the text and complete the information required loop, curl or boucle yarn metallic chenille braided knit stitched