Natural Hair: The Phoenix Rising to Herald our Cultural Renaissance by Schatzi H. McCarthy, MP, MAPA Owner/Manager – Schatzi’s Design Gallery & Day Spa

Objective To To demonstrate how the rebirth of natural hair is a powerful catalyst to and indication of our cultural re-awakening.

Understanding the Metaphor “A phoenix is a mythical bird that is a fire spirit with a colorful plumage and a tail of gold and scarlet (or purple, blue, and green according to some legends). It has a 500 to 1000 year life-cycle, near the end of which it builds itself a nest of twigs that then ignites; both nest and bird burn fiercely and are reduced to ashes, from which a new, young phoenix or phoenix egg arises, reborn anew to live again. The new phoenix is destined to live as long as its old self. … The Phoenix's ability to be reborn from its own ashes implies that it is immortal…” Source:

Where are we now in the life cycle of this Phoenix?

Where are we now?

Where have we come from?

Mitochondrial Eve In the field of human genetics, the name Mitochondrial Eve refers to the matrilineal most recent common ancestor (MRCA) of all currently living anatomically modern humans, who is estimated to have lived approximately 100,000–200,000 years ago. This is the most recent woman from whom all living humans today descend, on their mother’s side, and through the mothers of those mothers, and so on, back until all lines converge on one person. Because all mitochondrial DNA (mtDNA) generally (but see paternal mtDNA transmission) is passed from mother to offspring without recombination, all mtDNA in every living person is directly descended from hers by definition, differing only by themutations that over generations have occurred in the germ cell mtDNA since the conception of the original "Mitochondrial Eve".human geneticsmatrilinealmost recent common ancestoranatomically modern humansall living humans today mitochondrial DNApaternal mtDNA transmissionrecombinationmutationsgerm cellconception Mitochondrial Eve is named after mitochondria and the biblical Eve. [2] Unlike her biblical namesake, she was not the only living human female of her time. However, her female contemporaries, except her mother, failed to produce a direct unbroken female line to any living woman in the present day.mitochondriaEve [2]direct unbroken female line Mitochondrial Eve is estimated to have lived … most likely in East Africa, when Homo sapiens sapiens (anatomically modern humans) were developing as a population distinct from other human sub-species.East AfricaHomo sapiens Source: Wikipedia Source: Wikipedia

Ancient Nubia and Egypt

Where else does “natural” exemplify our cultural satisfaction?

What Happened?

When did we learn to dislike Kinks? Atlantic Slave Trade & Cultural Genocide Atlantic Slave Trade & Cultural Genocide –African Names –African Languages –African Religions –African Cultural Values –African-ness Dramatization Dramatization Dramatization

The Desire for Dissociation Early 1900s – Straightening Comb Early 1900s – Straightening Comb 1913 – G.A. Morgan Hair Refining Company 1913 – G.A. Morgan Hair Refining Company 1971 – Commercial production of Hair Relaxers 1971 – Commercial production of Hair Relaxers Late 1970s – Damaging Effects lead to No-lye relaxers Late 1970s – Damaging Effects lead to No-lye relaxers Mid 2000s – Brazilian Blowout Mid 2000s – Brazilian Blowout

Language of Beautiful Hair Why Choose the word “Relaxer”?

Definition of “Relax” 1 : to make less tense or rigid 1 : to make less tense or rigid 2 : to make less severe or stringent 2 : to make less severe or stringent 3 : to deprive of energy, zeal, or strength of purpose 3 : to deprive of energy, zeal, or strength of purpose 4 : to relieve from nervous tension 4 : to relieve from nervous tension 5 : to treat (hair) chemically in order to relax curls 5 : to treat (hair) chemically in order to relax curls intransitive verb 1 : to become lax, weak, or loose 1 : to become lax, weak, or loose 2 : to become less intense or severe 2 : to become less intense or severe 3 of a muscle or muscle fiber: to become inactive and lengthen 3 of a muscle or muscle fiber: to become inactive and lengthen 4 : to cast off social restraint, nervous tension, or anxiety 4 : to cast off social restraint, nervous tension, or anxiety 5 : to seek rest or recreation 5 : to seek rest or recreation 6 : to relieve constipation 6 : to relieve constipation 7 : to attain equilibrium following the abrupt removal of some influence 7 : to attain equilibrium following the abrupt removal of some influence

How was the new image of beauty reinforced?

Cosmetology and Cultural Assimilation Defined as the science of beauty Defined as the science of beauty Through legislation in all States, standardized practices are mandated Through legislation in all States, standardized practices are mandated But, current practice is not universal But, current practice is not universal –E.g. April 10, 2014 press release re: recently revised Defense Department Grooming Standards recently revised Defense Department Grooming Standardsrecently revised Defense Department Grooming Standards

Impact on Africanized Hair Relaxer treatments are seen as the cure or remedy for natural, kinky textured hair. Relaxer treatments are seen as the cure or remedy for natural, kinky textured hair. Cosmetologists were not trained to care for natural, kinky hair. Cosmetologists were not trained to care for natural, kinky hair. As the recognized authorities on hair care, cosmetologists have historically encouraged natural clients to assimilate and their opinion has been valued As the recognized authorities on hair care, cosmetologists have historically encouraged natural clients to assimilate and their opinion has been valued

Impact on Africanized Hair until now…

Diversity Reigns Supreme with the Re-surgence of Natural Hair

Questions & Answers