LESSON – 11 ADAPTATION OF SHIRT BLOCK IN DESIGNER SHIRT LESSON – 11 ADAPTATION OF SHIRT BLOCK IN DESIGNER SHIRT
INTRODUCTION What is adaptation ? To change in shirt block to create a new design – by modification, we create adapted pattern –method known as adaptation Adaptation made on final block – we can make shirt with raglan sleeve, shirt with kimono sleeve etc.
( 1 ) SHIRT WITH RAGLAN SLEEVE ( BY ADAPTATION ) BODY SECTION : Trace body section of block – take 1 cm off front shoulder line, add 1 cm to back shoulder line Mark points A and B – 4 cm in front new shoulder points; mark C on fitting line 2.5 cm below back pitch point; mark D directly opposite on fitting line on front armhole; mark E on fitting line of front pitch point-
RAGLAN SLEEVE
CONSTRUCTION LINES BODY SECTION Draw curved lines from A-C & B–D - draw in 1cm dart on back shoulder. Cut off shaded section,close back shoulder dart, separate front and back body sections. Add seam allowance to side seam and raglan seams from A-C & B-D.
CONSTRUCTION LINES SLEEVE :- Trace one piece sleeve block, draw centre line of sleeve 1 cm forward. Mark point F at new sleeve head point; mark G on fitting line 2.5 cm below back pitch point. H on fitting line at front pitch point, H-K = E-D on body section- ( continue….)
-Separate sleeve vertically from F. Place back body section to back sleeve ; place C to touch G, place shoulder point to F, -Place front body section to front sleeve ; -Place D to touch K, place shoulder point to F -Add seam allowance from A-G & B-K -Add seam allowance to centre seams curving inwards to touch F
2 ) SHIRT WITH KIMONO SLEEVE ( BY ADAPTATION ) Note : ( Use an easy fitting blocks for kimono sleeve ) BACK : Trace back body section of block required ; mark point 1 and 2 on side seam 1-3 = 5 cm square out, 3-4 = 5 cm, 2-5 = 3.5cm 2-6 = ½ measurement cm Mark 7 at shoulder point, 8 at neck point -
METHOD DEMONSTRATION
INSTRUCTIONS FOR KIMONO Split sleeve along the line from balance point at sleeve head Place back sleeve section to back body section Place underarm point of sleeve to 4 and sleeve head to shoulder point 7 ( the sleeve head may not always touch this pointexactly 7-9 is 1.5 cm, join 8-9, extend the line to wrist parallel to line of sleeve Join 6 to wrist point 10 at base of underarm seam ( using same instructions for front )