August 24, C OASTAL D ATA I NFORMATION P ROGRAM C OASTAL D ATA I NFORMATION P ROGRAM present

CDIP was developed with seed money from the California Sea Grant program and the California Department of Boating and Waterways. Mission was to acquire a nearshore wave climatology for the US that would allow coastal practitioners to make more rational design decisions.

CDIP Mission Based at SIO 32 Wave Stations 14 People $2.5M+ / year budget Funded by: CDBW USACE (SCCOOS BEACON ONR…) Develop US nearshore wave climatology for more rational design decisions COASTAL DATA INFORMATION PROGRAM

27 Operational CDIP Stations 23 Directional Wave Buoys 2 Pressure sensor stations 2 Anemometers California, Georgia, Guam, Hawaii, Oregon, Washington Historical Stations (1975-present) 63 Wave Buoys 30 Directional Arrays 36 Surge – Inner Harbor 21 Single Point Pressure California, Georgia, Hawaii, Minnesota, North Carolina, Oregon, Virginia, Washington, Guam Approx 300 GB Data Storage

Net/Phone/ Wireless Modem Data Transmission Datawell Directional Wave Buoy Data Acquisition System Located at Coast Guard, Harbor Master, Marine Exchange offices Scripps Central Computer Facility - 29 Km max distance from shore HF/FM Transmission Data 30 minutes

Central Computer Automated Real-Time Processing Time Domain Quality Control Time Series Frequency Domain STORAGE raw spectral parameters WEB UPDATE Real-Time/Historical Pub/Non-Public NWS Transmission Station Specific Requests Error/Diagnostic Statistics Post Processing Inter-comparison of last 24 hours

CDIP In-House Diagnostics Data Collection Coverage Percentages Pt. Reyes – 91.88% La Jolla – 99.66% Torrey Pines I – 99.09% Torrey Pines O – 99.23% Oceanside – 99.29% Harvest – 94.70% San Pedro – 94.95% Dana Point – 99.47% San Pedro – 94.95% Pt Dume – 95.88% Harvest – 94.70% Pt. Reyes – 91.88% Grays Harbor – 87.56%

MEASUREMENTS 30 min) NOWCASTS FORECASTS MODELS

Modeling Waves Across the Basin Headland shadowing Islandshadowing Diffractioneffects Amplification over shoals Refractive effects Directional wave buoy to initiate model

Northwest Swell West Swell

South Swell San Pedro Harbor

San Diego Harbor Entrance

San Pedro & Long Beach Harbor Entrance 6 Feb 2004 – 1728 PST 31 Jan 2000 – 1257 PST 9 May 2003 – 0645 PST

San Francisco Swell Model

San Diego Harbor Entrance 8 Mar 2002 – 0916 PST

FORECASTS - Local Sea & Swell Prediction Two buoys are used to initialize the model

FORECAST MODELS

Regional Prediction of Wave-Driven Sand Transport Los Angeles County Coastline

Santa Monica Bay Directional Buoy Nearshore Directional wave prediction along the 10m depth contour

END USERS - WAVES COMMERCIAL MARINERS RECREATIONAL MILITARY & GOV

In-Situ ATV & JetSki Surveys: San Onofre and Torrey Pines LIDAR CDIP Wave Buoys SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA BEACH PROCESSES STUDY (SCBPS)

SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA BEACH PROCESSES STUDY SCRIPPS INSTITUTION OF OCEANOGRAPHY UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA, SAN DIEGO Objectives Monitor beach sand levels, cliff erosion, and waves Monitor beach sand levels, cliff erosion, and waves Relate spatial patterns of erosion and wave activity Relate spatial patterns of erosion and wave activity Test and improve erosion models used for management Test and improve erosion models used for management decisions decisions

SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA BEACH PROCESSES STUDY Selected Region Dana Point Dana Point to to Point La Jolla Point La Jolla Length 55 miles Length 55 miles Why this region? Man-made Harbors Lagoons Cliffs

Expanded airborne coastline surveys FY2002 Nourishment site study FY Southern California Beach Processes Study ( ) ( ) Local wave buoys to estimate near-beach wave conditions San Diego Oceanside San Clemente

Southern California Beach Processes Study Seasonal (four per year) Laser “LIDAR” Surveys: Precise surveys of cliffs and beach above the water line

LEUCADIA, CA – FEB 2002

DANA POINT HARBOR LIDAR IMAGE – Sep 2002

END USERS – SAND/EROSION LOCAL GOVERNMENTS COASTAL ENGINEERS Torrey Pines State Beach, 11/23/02

Conversion of measurements to produce useful products.

WEB ACCESS STATS 80,000 VISITORS/DAY 159 WEB SITES LINK DIRECTLY TO CDIP