Sustainable Hairdressing

Who are we? Team of Social Researchers from the University of Southampton, Hairdressers and Environmental Managers; Dr Denise Baden, Dr Swarna Prasad, Danielle Mills, Jordan Peel Project: “Embedding sustainability in the hairdressing curriculum – sustainable solutions for hair and beauty sector” conducted by the University of Southampton and funded by the Economic and Social Research Council.

Note to Trainers; Please feel free to use or adapt this presentation to suit the needs of your course/students. Every point is covered both by text and by video clips so choose which clips/text you want and delete any you don’t to avoid repetition.

Eco Hair and Beauty Presentation Overview: Background to the key concepts relating to sustainability such as: climate change, global warming, resource use and sustainable development, with video clips to illustrate. Video clips made specifically for training providers to show trainee hairdressers how to practice sustainable hairdressing. These cover: Practices that save energy and water in the salon and at home. Eco products for use in salon and by clients. Green technologies. Sustainable after care practices for clients.

Key sustainability concepts

One Planet Living Globally; humanity is currently consuming 50% more natural resources than the Earth's ecosystems can replenish (WWF). United Kingdom; if everyone in the world were to consume natural resources and generate CO2 at the rate we do in the UK, we'd need three planets to support us. We only have one planet and need to stop over consuming our planets resources by making sustainable changes in our homes and places of work. Concept of One Planet Living (2:46mins) WWF Basic concept of sustainability and climate change (1 min)

Sustainable Development Sustainable Development is development that; “meets the needs of the present without compromising the ability of future generations to meet their own needs’’ (Brundtland Commission, 1987).

In order for salons to be successful in the future they need to consider the 3 pillars of sustainability where the social, environmental and economical needs of the business are balanced. The Three Pillars of Sustainability

Social Meets Environmental Social Paying employees a fair wage Fairtrade tea and coffee Cutting wigs for cancer patients Donating hair clippings to oil spills and cancer charities Using socially responsible products Eco community events Supporting charities Spreading sustainable after-care advice with clients Adopting organic or ultra-low ammonia colours Creating a safe environment for staff and clients Environmental Installing renewable or low carbon technology Switching to a green energy supplier Up-cycling furniture Using brushes from FSC certified sources Training staff to reduce their own environmental impact Investing in industry specific green technology Adopting a product range where the ingredients are sourced from renewable and sustainable sources Reduce waste sent to landfill Reduce energy consumption Reduce water consumption

Climate change and Global warming When CO2 is released into the atmosphere, it acts as a greenhouse gas i.e. it causes heat to remain trapped within the atmosphere, rather than escaping back to space. This causes global warming. Science tells us that the increasing century is mostly man-made and that temperatures are rising now faster than ever (WWF, 2015a).

Climate change and Global warming The Climate Change Act (2008) was introduced to ensure the UK cuts its carbon emissions by 80% by The 80% target is set against a 1990 baseline. The Governments policies to help businesses and households achieve this are set out in:Climate Change Act (2008) A rise of just 2°c would result in severe storms, floods and droughts, little or no arctic ice, and more acidic oceans (WWF, 2015a). This is likely to result in water shortages and developing countries in the South becoming deserts. This affects us all, as we depend on the South for crops such as coffee, chocolate, sugar, fruit etc. Sea levels and coastal areas will become uninhabitable.

Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change “Continued emission of greenhouse gases will cause further warming and long-lasting changes in all components of the climate system, increasing the likelihood of severe, pervasive and irreversible impacts for people and ecosystems. Limiting climate change would require substantial and sustained reductions in greenhouse gas emissions which, together with adaptation, can limit climate change risks…. The risks of abrupt or irreversible changes increase as the magnitude of the warming increases.” (IPCC 2014 report).

Reducing Water and Energy Consumption

Energy Use in the UK What can you do? Cut energy use. What are your most energy-hungry appliances? Typical wattage of a power shower is about 10,500 watts (DEFRA, 2011), and the typical wattage of a residential water heater is about 4,500watts. Comparatively, the typical wattage of a TV is only 140watts. Can reduce use of water heater and/or switch to more eco-product e.g. Low flow showers with a wattage of about 8,500 watts, or shower aerators, which reduce water consumption by about 50%.

Energy Challenge Dwindling fossil fuels resources are predicted to run out before the end of the century. They are non renewable and the global rate of consumption is outstripping the resources that are available. Nuclear is an option to replace fossil fuels in the future but there are major concerns with safety issues and waste. Renewable or low carbon energy produce clean energy and are viable options for the future. A national, mixed approach which relies on a combination of wind, solar and tidal can provide a realistic solution to the energy crisis. Installing renewable energy, or switching to a green energy supplier is a sustainable way to improve a salons greenhouse gas emissions.

Salon activities that depend on energy Blow drying the hair Straightening, curling, setting the hair Climazones and hooded dryers Washing towels Boiling the kettle Lighting The hot water heated to wash hair

Reducing energy consumption through behaviour change Waiting for a full load before you put the washing machine on Switching lights off Switching appliances off Switching taps off Filling the kettle for the right amount of cups Using products to help speed up blow drying time where appropriate Using the correct blow drying techniques to provide a quality, yet efficient service

Benefits of Sustainable Behaviour Changes culture of the industry Long term impact as it becomes the norm Simple and not time consuming Gets to the root of the problem No need for large investment

Industry specific green technology that reduces energy consumption Gammu Piu IES Dryer S ingle use towels such as EasyDry or Enki Ecoheads Professional Hair Spa Curlformers

Why is it important to reduce the salon’s electricity consumption? Saves resources and conserves fossil fuels Reduces carbon emissions and benefits climate change Reduces air pollution Reduces demand for electricity which makes the salon less vulnerable to energy price fluctuations People are over-consuming and sustainable actions set a good example for others to follow

Why is it important to reduce water consumption? Risk of water scarcity becoming a real threat Relieves pressure on water treatment plants Saves water and conserves the vital resource Good habits can influence others to make changes

Salon activities that depend on water Washing the clients hair for a cut and blow dry Rinsing off a clients colour Rinsing a perm Washing towels Washing up Filling the kettle for hot drinks Mopping the salon

Behaviour change to reduce water consumption? Switching taps off Waiting for a full load before you put the washing machine on Filling the kettle for the right amount of cups Filling the sink to wash up

Industry specific green technology that reduce water consumption EcoHeads Save water consumption by 50% Enhances clients experience by massage motion Purifies water which results in a cleaner smoother blow dry Single use towels (e.g. EasyDry, Enki) Saves water Biodegradeable, which reduces pressure on landfill Sourced from sustainable forests Hygienic

Non-industry specific green technology that reduces water consumption Grey water system A grey water system is an effective way to reuse the high volume of water that a salon produces. The system collects ‘white’ water that has been produced as a result of the shampooing process, the washing machine and general housekeeping duties. The water is filtered into the grey water system and is used for toilet water.

Reducing Water Pollution

Water Pollution Waste water from hair washing is classed as “grey-water”, and is transported by sewer systems to a treatment facility. It is vital therefore that waste water is transported safely and treated. If these toxic chemicals were released into soil or water, they could cause great ecological damage. More than 5,000 different chemicals are found in hair dye products, some of which are reported to be carcinogen, causing cancer in animals (Bolt & Golka, 2007, de Sanjose et al., 2006).

Case study: Eutrophication Ammonia pollution is a form of water pollution. It results in a process known as eutrophication, which leads to the excessive growth of organisms such as algae, preventing sunlight and oxygen reaching other organisms beneath the water surface. Effects on the Environment Results in low levels of oxygen in freshwater or seawater Algal bloom blocks out the sunlight and kills fish Algal bloom blocks out the sunlight and kills aquatic life

What Can be Done to Reduce Water Pollution? Reduce colour waste When mixing colour it can be easy to overestimate the colour needed for the service or clients hair. This wasted colour is then washed unnecessarily down the drain causing water pollution. Mixing colour responsibly can reduce ecological damage and save the salon money. Opt for Organic and Ultra Low Ammonia Options Alternative hair colour contains fewer toxic chemicals which ultimately gets washed down the drain and enters the water system. This change not only benefits the environment, but improves the wellbeing of stylists and clients as their exposure to toxic chemicals is minimised.

Practices that reduce the need for product such as colour or extend life of colour treatments 1. Use temporary hair-colour e.g. good for festivals: video clip (48sec also in clip 4) 2. Tip to extend life of colour (42sec also in clip 4) How much product to use video clip (1:25mins – pause for Q& A at 45sec): 4. Reduce colour fade through hair-care that reduces number of rinses e.g. dry shampoo, shampoo less, leave-in conditioner etc. 10 mini clips showing how can advise clients (10 mins): LVpIMBnUZVgtubNngrelAqBXO219ypDvW LVpIMBnUZVgtubNngrelAqBXO219ypDvW

Global Environmental Problems

Palm Oil Palm oil is a vegetable oil and is by far the most popular and efficient product on the market. It is found in many household products, varying from pizza and chocolate to toothpastes and soaps. It is also found in the shampoo that we use at home and in the salon, but unsustainable palm oil is causing significant environmental problems. Today, rainforests are being destroyed at that rate of 300 football fields every hour.

Under the Microscope; negative effects of palm oil Deforestation Habitat loss Loss of biodiversity Soil erosion Water pollution Climate change

Deforestation Current, unsustainable palm oil plantations require the forest to be cleared. The trees are chopped down and the land is burnt to make way for the growth of palm oil. Malaysia and Indonesia are responsible for over 85% of global palm oil production and the problems created from harvesting palm oil cross over social and environmental issues. In 2014, Indonesia lost over 800,000 hectares of primary forest and had the highest rate of deforestation in the world.

Habitat Loss The loss of forest has led to many animals losing their homes. This has pushed many species to the brink of extinction, at risk are; elephants, rhinos, tigers and orang-utans. If orang-utans wander into nearby villages they are seen as pests and are captured. The mother is often killed and the baby is sold on a as pet. If palm oil workers find them on plantations they capture them, kill them or have been known to bury them alive.

Video Clips and Useful Links for Palm Oil Information Palm oil 2:09 –Illustrates how consumer choices affect palm oil. Greenpeace - 2:27 - link between palm oil, forest destruction and products. Some global buyers such as Unilever are committed to buying 100% sustainable palm oil, but others are lagging. To find out which shampoos use sustainable palm oil check out the following links

What can be done in the hair and beauty industry Choose a shampoo brand that is RSPO certified by checking the ingredients list, if it contains vegetable oil or fat look for indication whether it comes from sustainable sources If you can’t be sure that the product contains sustainable palm oil, opt for a palm oil free product Educate clients about your product choice and why it is important Don't overuse products, use the recommended amount to reduce demand and preserve resources

Reducing Waste

The Waste Hierarchy The waste hierarchy aims to minimise waste

The Benefits of Reducing and Managing Waste Saves resources Saves energy Reduces air pollution Reduces climate change Reduces habitat destruction Reduces deforestation

Case study: Aluminium Foil Extraction involves open cast or strip mining which leaves scars on the landscape Heavy machinery is involved in the process which disrupts local ecosystems and biodiversity The process involves habitat destruction, soil erosion and water pollution Contributes to global warming Foil takes 400 years minimum to break down Just 1% of salons recycle their foil

Reducing Waste; Recycling How? Set up recycling bins in convenient places in the salon, label the recycling bins with a list a common salon waste items that can be disposed of, approach the task as a team Why? Reduces pressure on landfill and saves resources

Eco Products

Eco-products There are two ways in which a product can be eco-friendly; 1.The way in which it is used results in less water/energy being used e.g. dry shampoo, leave-in conditioner, cleansing conditioner. 2.The brand/company is known for its green credentials e.g. it may use recyclable/less packaging, have less toxic ingredients, avoid ingredients that damage the environment, be better for the wellbeing of stylists and clients e.g. palm oil free, ammonia free, PPD free and so on.

Eco-products that use less resources Dry shampoo Leave-in conditioner Cleansing conditioner; shampoo & conditioner in one Eco colour; ammonia free, organic, PPD free Curlers that don’t require heat e.g. curl-formers Video (5:30) some examples of eco-products (cleansing conditioner, hair-oils, salt spray, dry shampoo, leave-in conditioner) yudP5F40bcO5J_ yudP5F40bcO5J_

Green/eco brands and products O'right Kevin.Murphy Organic Colour Systems Aveda Davines Iva Natura Alterna Eufora

Dry Shampoo  Dry shampoo is a product that can be used to soak up excess oil at the roots to keep hair looking fresher between washes.  This intervention reduces the frequency of shampooing and need to style hair which saves water, electricity and detergents. Video clips : Kevin.Murphy (1min): Video clip dry shampoo/hairdust (2mins): yudP5F40bcO5J_ Video clip: advice to client (54sec):

Dry Shampoo Eco savings: 8 mins less running shower time will save approx. 1.0 kg CO₂e, 2.17 kWh and 62 litres of water. If we also factor in no blow drying (assume a saving of 5 mins blowdrying) (0.04 kg CO₂e and 0.08 kWh ), this saves a total of 1.04 kg CO₂e and 2.25 kWh. Good for hair as it doesn’t strip natural oils from scalp, or make brittle through blow drying. Makes hair easier to style, can give volume. Coloured versions can help to cover grey roots temporarily. Cost savings: over a year, assuming use dry shampoo once a week, saving one wash/dry cycle and saving 5 mins blowdry. This saves approx. £22.76 for clients. (£16.38 energy + £6.38water), and saves hours of time a year. Time saving: Takes less than a minute. How long does your normal wash and dry take? Convenience: can do anywhere, good when no access to water e.g. festivals, camping. Reduces colour-fade due to less rinsing and so has environmental, time, cost and health and safety benefits.

Leave-in conditioner Leave-in conditioner can be used in place of a regular conditioner. Clients may find that their hair is easier to style and doesn't become greasy as quickly.  Using a leave-in conditioner can save water and electricity as the need to apply and rinse regular conditioner is eliminated. Video clips: Video clip: leave-in conditioner product tip (48sec): Video clip: hair oils product tip (36sec): Video clip: advice to client (1:13):

Leave-in conditioner Eco savings: 2 minutes less shower time will save approx kg CO₂e and 0.54 kWh, and 15.5 litres of water Good for many kinds of hair as can provide extra volume. Cost savings: over a year, assuming wash hair 3 times a week, this saves approx. £16.63 (£11.84 energy + £4.79 water) for clients a year – assuming energy =14.05p per kWh, and water = 0.198p per litre. Time saving: Using leave-in conditioner instead washing out conditioner saves about 1-5 minutes depending on length/type of hair. Reduces colour-fade due to less rinsing and so has environmental, time, cost and health and safety benefits.

Cleansing Conditioner/Co-washing  Cleansing conditioners cleanse hair and remove dirt gently without stripping it. They do not contain sulphates and therefore do not lather or strip the hair and scalp of natural oils like regular shampoo.  They eliminate the need for conditioner and therefore save water, electricity and detergents. Video clips: Video clip product tip (43sec) Video clip: advice to client (59 sec): Video clip Biolage (1:58) Biolage:

Cleansing conditioner/co-washing Eco savings: 2 minutes less shower time will save approx kg CO₂e and 0.54 kWh, and 15.5 litres of water Good for hair as it doesn’t strip natural oils from scalp Cost savings: over a year, assuming wash hair 3 times a week, this saves approx. £16.63 (£11.84 energy + £4.79 water) for clients a year – assuming energy =14.05p per kWh, and water = 0.198p per litre. Time saving: Using cleansing conditioner instead shampoo + conditioner saves about 2-6 mins depending on length/type of hair. Reduces colour-fade due to less rinsing and so has environmental, time, cost and health and safety benefits.

Eco-colour Eco colours are temporary hair chalks that wash out after shampooing. They give vibrant results but contain no chemicals which benefits hair condition as ammonia destroys the protein in the hair.  Great for clients who like to change their colour as the colour is easily removed and maintenance is minimal as colour washes out leaving no regrowth.  They also benefit the environment as no chemicals including ammonia enter the water system.  Social benefits to staff and clients include the reduced risk of allergies, cancer and occupational asthma due to the elimination of toxic chemicals.  Video Clip Colour bug (1:53)  Video clip (48sec):

Heat free curlers  Heat free curlers allow clients to curl their hair at home without the use of electricity which benefits the environment.  The new technology is kinder to the hair so clients can achieve different types of curls without damaging their hair from heated appliances.  Sleep In Rollers replace traditional rollers to provide volume  and curls.  The Aurora Night Roller gives hair a natural looking curl.  Curlformers provide defined curls or vintage waves depending upon your desired look. Video Clip (1:36):

The Ripple Effect

The Ripple Effect in the Hair and Beauty Industry Trainers/ Colleges Learners Salons Clients

What home-care practices are we talking about? Shampooing once instead of twice Encouraging the use of dry shampoo Reducing/eliminating the volume of conditioner used per wash Leaving hair to dry naturally as much as possible Reducing the use of straighteners, curling tongs and other heated appliances Video clip 2mins healthcare tips to save time and money:

Advice to clients The biggest impact you have as hairdressers is the advice you give to your clients. Watch these clips to get some ideas on how you can integrate advice into the service you provide: BXO219ypDvW BXO219ypDvW 10 mini clips of < minute each showing how you can advise clients of products/practices that are good for their hair, but also better for the environment. (also shown on slide 30)

The Ripple Effect in the Hairdressing Industry Our findings show that just one learner can go on to help clients to save a minimum of kg of carbon annually just by recommending dry shampoo This is equivalent to preventing 402 Intelligent Energy Saving Hair Dryers from being sent to landfill (0.198 tons)

The Ripple Effect in the Hairdressing Industry Our findings show that just one college that teaches learners about sustainable after care advice can equip their learners with the knowledge to go on to help clients to save a minimum of 39,745.22kg of carbon annually just by recommending dry shampoo This is equivalent to taking 8.4 cars off the road annually OR The equivalent of preventing 23,083 barbering chairs from being sent to landfill (14.2 tons)

The Benefits of Spreading Such After- Care Advice for Hairdressers

The Benefits of Spreading Such After- Care Advice for the Environment?

The Benefits of Spreading Such After-Care Advice for Clients?

The Link between sustainability and hairdressing Facts and Figures

Link between sustainability and hairdressing About 30% of the energy consumption in the UK is accounted for by households. Of that, nearly 25% is heating water, and most of this energy/water usage is related to showering/hair care. Energy consumption of running hot water per minute is 2.59p per minute. This is a lot higher than the energy consumption of a 1800 watt oven p per minute, a 140 watt TV -0.03p per minute, an 80 watt fridge -0.02p per minute, or a 400 watt PC p per minute. LINK BETWEEN SUSTAINABILITY AND HAIRDRESSING 14 mins

A study in California showed that if every person in California switched to cleansing conditioners and reduced their showers by just one minute, around 2,600,000,000 gallons (12,000,000,000 litres) of water would be saved every year. That is the same amount as 4800 Olympic sized swimming pools. This would save 130 kWh of power every year The reduced electricity costs would save $15.8million (around £10million). Per person, this would mean a saving of 730 gallons (3300 litres) and about $4 (£2.55) in energy costs per year. Link between sustainability and hairdressing

How hair is washed Most of us wash our hair in water that is too hot. Washing hair in tepid water rather than hot water is better for the follicles. Also hot water stimulates the sebaceous glands and encourages oil production which can lead to greasy hair. Washing in tepid water also saves energy and money. An 8 minute shower at 43°C (hot) = 1.806kWh. A daily hot shower for a year would use kWh and cost £ (£96.62 energy + £26.02 water) An 8 minute shower at 37°C (tepid) = 1.554kWh. A daily tepid shower for a year would use only kWh year and cost only £ (£79.69 energy + £26.02 water). Most of us use too much shampoo - most shampoos contain harsh chemicals such as sodium lauryl sulphate which strip the oil from the hair

Cost Cost of running water = energy bill + water bill. Running hot water costs 1.25p per minute or £365 per year (assuming one 8 minute shower every day) with an electric immersion boiler and a power shower head. This could be reduced by 960% by using a gas-heated cylinder boiler and an eco shower head, which costs only 1.3p per minute, or £37.96 per year (assuming one 8 minute shower every day). How much could a salon save by turning tap off between washes? Work out how much could a salon save by reducing rinsing time by 3 minutes per client by having one less rinse cycle per client? Cost of running hairdryers and hair straighteners Cost of products Waste costs for salons Cost of laundry What other costs are there to consider?

Some of examples of cost savings Work out how much could a salon save a year by reducing rinsing time by 3 minutes per client by having one less rinse cycle per client? May do this by shampooing once rather than twice, using leave in conditioner rather than rinse out conditioner, using cleansing conditioner rather than shampoo + condition Cost of running hot water - assume £0.035 per minute Save 3 minutes per customer, assume 20 customers a day = 3 x £0.035 x 20. Per year= £0.7 X 360 = £252 How much could your client save a month by having one less rinse cycle per wash (assume washes hair 3 times a week) = 3 x £0.035 x 156 = £16.38

THE CARBON FOOTPRINT OF 2 PEOPLE High resource client: shampoos their hair every day, and with the following pattern – shampoo once, rinse, shampoo twice, rinse, condition, rinse, blow dry, straighten Water use = 14,222 litres; energy use = kWh (663.71kWh kWh kWh), carbon footprint = 578.8kg CO₂e ( ) Lower resource client : uses dry shampoo once a week, shampoos hair twice a week, and shampoos just once, uses leave-conditioner, lets hair dry to 80% dry before using hairdryer. Water use = 613 litres; energy use = kWh (38.28 kWh kWh), carbon footprint = 25.4kg CO₂e ( ) Imagine if just 10% of clients changed their habits for their lifetime, as a result of your advice, and then passes advice onto to their kids.

Carbon Footprint of Shampoo Roughly 93% of the carbon footprint of shampoo, conditioner and other hair products is associated with heating water in the “use phase”, But the remaining 7% is also significant. Of the remaining 7%, 58% of the carbon footprint comprises of packaging materials, 29% product distribution, and 5% production. Therefore you are decreasing your carbon footprint by reducing your product consumption, as well as your hot water consumption.

The Future of the Hair and Beauty Industry

What does the future of hairdressing look like? Anne Veck Owner of eco salon in Oxford BlueGen Ceramic Fuel Technology Single use towels LED lighting FSC accredited stationary Ammonia free hair colour Ethically sourced hair extensions

What does the future of hairdressing look like? Elan Hair design Refurbishment Recycling and disposing Responsibly Eco Friendly Products Energy Efficiency Waste Minimisation Full Carbon Management Plan On Line Excellent Environmental and Financial Results Community and sharing Best Practice with clients and salons

What does the future of beauty look like? Titanic Spa, Huddersfield Renewable energy- solar panels Energy efficient appliances and lighting Natural water source Energy efficient on-site laundry Bistro offers organic, fair trade, local and seasonal food where possible Recycling facilities

Video Clips Showing Current Eco Hair Salons Anne Veck Eco Salon Aveda, Brighton UK

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