CLOTHING

HEM FINISHES A hem in sewing is a garment finishing method, where the edge of a piece of cloth is folded narrowly and sewn to prevent unravelling of the fabric.

Hem Finishes

METHODSMETHODS There are many different styles of hems of varying complexities. The most common hem folds up a cut edge, folds it up again, and then sews it down. The style of hemming thus completely encloses the cut edge in cloth, so that it cannot unravel. Other hem styles use fewer folds. One of the simplest hems encloses the edge of cloth with a stitch without any folds at all, using a method called an overcast stitch, although an overcast stitch may be used to finish a folded "plain hem" as well.[1] There are even hems that do not call for sewing, instead using iron-on materials, netting, plastic clips, or other fasteners.[2] These threadless hems are not common, and are often used only on a temporary basis. The hem may be sewn down with a line of invisible stitches or blind stitch, or sewn down by a sewing machine. The term hem is also extended to other cloth treatments that prevent unraveling. Hems can be serged (see serger), hand rolled and then sewn down with tiny stitches (still seen as a high-class finish to handkerchiefs), pinked with pinking shears, piped, covered with binding (this is known as a Hong Kong finish), or made with many other inventive treatments. Most haute couture hems are sewn by hand. Decorative embroidery embellishment is sometimes referred to as a hem- stitch design.

INFORMATION In sewing, there's a difference between stitches you use for construction and ones you use for finishing. When you’re first learning to sew, your immediate focus is getting all those pieces to fit together correctly. From the moment you cut the fabric, you’re concerned with maintaining the shape of the pattern pieces. You tediously concentrate on perfecting seam allowances, matching cut pieces end to end, lining up seams, and measuring hems exactly. When a project is finally completed, you’re so happy; your sense of accomplishment is overwhelming... but, what about the inside edges beyond where you sewed? One of the signs of a truly well-made project is that it looks nearly as good on the inside as it does on the outside. If you want your projects to look "handmade" but not "homemade," it's well worth it to give your seams a professional finish.

Types of Hem Finishes Pinked And Stitched Hem A pinked and stitched hem is appropriate for knits and fabrics that can unravel. Measure and mark the hemline, and then cut off a portion of the hem with pinking shears. Pinking shears create tiny peaks along the edge of the fabric. Machine stitch, or use a catch stitch if you are hand sewing. A zigzagged edge is also common. You can create one by using the zigzag stitch setting on your sewing machine.

Rolled Hems Rolled hems are machine stitched, and they can be used for casual wear and sportswear. The hem is created by folding the hem of the clothing and creasing. Then you'll cut off the extra fabric and fold the fabric in toward the crease. Stitch along the top of the crease.

Rolled Hems

Blind Hems Another popular type of hem is a blind hem. This hem is made with the sewing machine using the straight stitch blind hem or the stretch stitch blind hem setting on your sewing machine. This stitch will produce a hidden hem that won't show from the front of the fabric. It's great for dress clothes.

Blind Hems

Hand Stitches If you are making the stitch by hand, you can use one of two different stitching techniques. With an uneven stitch, you catch two or three threads with your needle and then slide the needle under the fabric. Bring the needle back out at intermittent points, and then sew a few more stitches. The other common hand stitching hemming method is a catch stitch, which consists of a series of diagonal stitches running in a zigzag from left to right.

Hand Stitches

Seam Tape or Binding Hem tape and hem lace can be found in fabric stores where bias tape is sold. The area where I live has limited sources for many sewing notions so these tapes can be difficult to find locally. Why Use Hem Tape? A fabric that needs a finished edge but is thick so that if you pressed under and edge, you would have a bump that is apt to press through the outside of the garment, is an ideal place to use hem tape. The hem tape, will secure the fabric edge but also provide a transition as the hem edge is attached. If the amount of fabric you have is a little scarce, using a hem tape or lace will extend the amount of fabric for the hem facing. A fabric that has very little capability of easing the fibers together can be eased in a bit more by using a hem tape that is also eased to fit in the desired area. These tapes offer a smooth surface in an area that the fabric may not be smooth when it is rubbing against skin or nylons. Many loosely woven fabrics will not give a sooth edge even with the fabric turned under. Using a seam tape along the hem edge solves this problem.

Seam Tape or Binding

Stiched and Overcast A machine stitch that wraps around the fabric raw edge to finish edges and prevent raveling. Some sewing machines have several overcast stitch options; consult your sewing machine manual for information on stitch settings and the appropriate presser foot for the chosen stitch (often the standard presser foot can be used). A zigzag stitch can be used as an alternative to finish raw edges if your machine doesn't have an overcast stitch function.

Stitched and Overcast

Turned Under A hem is a turned-under edge, to the inside of a sewn item, made by folding the edge of the sewn item to the inside of the item.

Turned Under

Zigzag Finished Edge This is a very quick and tidy seam finish that you can use for all most fabrics including those that are thick and fray easily. Use caution when using this technique with sheer fabrics as it can make them shred! For all these techniques, but especially this one, test a scrap and try a few variations of stitch widths and lengths to see what gives you the most tidy finish.

Zigzag Finished Edge