AQUARIA How to Set Up Fresh and Salt Water Aquariums

Factors to Consider Biotic Abiotic

Step 1 – Select Organism Select the Organism(s) Determine its needs It could be fresh or saltwater Number of organisms 1inch fish/gallon

Step 2 - Equipment Determine what equipment is needed

Step 3 – Cleaning the Tank WASH THE TANK WITH COLD FRESHWATER AND SALT (NON IODONIZED) –Note: NEVER USE DETERGENT, SOAP OR CHLORINE BLEACH – THEY ARE DEADLY

Step 4 – Tank Placement Select a location away from windows, radiators, and air conditioners. It should be placed in a manner that all equipment should be available for maintenance, cleaning and care of fish

Step 5 – Tank Placement Place tank on a steady water proof surface that can support the weight. Fresh water ways approximately 8 lbs a gallon. FOR EXAMPLE A 10 GALLON WEIGHS OVER 80 LBS.

Step 6 – Check for Leaks Place cardboard underneath tank to cushion it and make it easy to slide Half fill tank with water, wait 24 hours and observe for leaks

Step 7 – Check for Leaks Fill to within 1 inch of top, wait 24 hours and observe for leaks

Step 8 - Salt In a marine (salt water) tank add marine salt to the water until a density of – 1.020g/ml is reached –Use a hydrometer to measure density In a fresh water tank add one tablespoon of non iodized salt to prevent fungal infections

Do Now: 1.) What is the first step in setting up an aquarium? 2.) How much does one gallon of water weigh? 3.) What is the difference between biotic and abiotic factors? 4.) What tool do you use to measure the amount of salt in an aquarium?

Step 8-Salt Use a hydrometer to measure density. Density : how much stuff (mass) you have in a given amount of space (volume) Density should be: g/ml for salt water tank (S.W) g/ml for fresh water tank(F.W.)

Step 8-Salt What happens if density is NOT g/mL ?

Step 9- Substrate (stuff on the bottom of the tank) Add substrate to a depth of 1 inch

Step 9- Substrate Freshwater Tanks -gravel -sand

Step 9- Substrate Marine Tanks (Salt Water) -crushed coral -dolomite -marine sand or living sand

Step 10 - Filtration To maintain optimal fish health, 3 types of filtration are necessary. 1. Physical Filtration (blue filter pad) -stops solids from getting through (stuff we can see) Ex: algae, feces, sand, skin/scales, excess food

Step 10 - Filtration 2. Chemical Filtration (activated carbon) - activated carbon inside blue filter -removes harmful chemicals/gases (stuff we can’t see)

Step 10 - Filtration 3. Biological Filtration (Biowheel) - helpful living-bacteria -adds beneficial bacteria to remove harmful wastes (Ammonia) -In a reef tank living rock provides great biological filtration

Eclipse Filter System Most tanks have these built in. Blue Filter Pad + Activated Carbon + Biowheel

Step 11 – Add Heater - Most fish can only survive within an environment with narrow range of temperature change (between degrees Fahrenheit) -Submersible heaters are best

Step 11 – Add Heater - You need 5 watts per gallon -To install heater safely: 1.Place unplugged heater at bottom of tank for 15 minutes. 2.Then set temperature and plug in heater. 3.Wait 24 hours then measure temperature and adjust heater.

Step 11 – Add Heater - Heater must have a “Dripline” Always check dripline! Surge protectors should be elevated so water does not get into the outlets. If water gets into outlet power will surge, filter will STOP and tank will get dirty and cold=Fish may DIE!

Step 12 – Add Decorations Reasons 1.Hiding places (fake plants/plastic tubes/rocks/corals) 2.Imitate natural habitat (better for their immune system) 3.Aesthetics-make it look pretty 4.Give it places to lay eggs (external reproduction with eggs and sperm)

Step 12 – Add Decorations Types of Decorations 1.Rocks 2.Plastic Plants 3.Caves/tubes/castles 4.Decorations that aerate (add air to) the tank ex : treasure chest, scuba diver (release bubbles) 5. Corals/Sea Shells-Saltwater only!!

Step 13 – Cover & Lighting A cover is needed to 1.Prevent fish from jumping out of the tank. 2.Slow evaporation. 3.Keep dust out of the tank. A light is needed to 1.Help comfort the organisms (most live in lighted areas during the day) 1.Special tanks require special lights -Reef tank : Actinic light (bluish light) -Turtle tank : UVB light

Step 14 – Selecting a Fish from the store Fish should: 1.Be active 2.Have regular breathing pattern 3.Have clear eyes 4.Have no torn fins or sores 5.No fuzzy stuff on body or fins *First you put starter fish in the tank. They are very hardy! Starter fish gets the filter system “kick started” and working properly. After a few weeks tank will be ready for other fish.

Fresh Water Tiger Barb

Salt Water

Step 15– Catching Fish 1.No nets!! 2.Use small plastic container to SLOWLY & GENTLY catch the fish. 3.Transfer fish to a plastic bag.

Step 16– Acclimating Fish 1.Float plastic container in tank for 5-10 minutes. 2.Mix in some tank water into plastic container/bag and wait 5-10 minutes. 3.Slowly let the fish SWIM OUT!

17. Maintaining your tank 1. Water Quality Check A. pH  acidic vs. basic *Use dip strips to measure pH. *Do test 1/week or 1/month ESPECIALLY when adding something new! *Choose the correct pH test for your tank (SW or FW)

When does ammonia become a problem in your tank? How much ammonia is too much ammonia? What does ammonia break down into? How does the ammonia break down?

When can I put my fish in the tank?

Do you think ammonia is a problem?

Step 15– Catching Fish 1.No nets!! 2.Use small plastic container to SLOWLY & GENTLY catch the fish. 3.Transfer fish to a plastic bag.

Step 16– Acclimating Fish 1.Float plastic container in tank for 5-10 minutes. 2.Mix in some tank water into plastic container/bag and wait 5-10 minutes. 3.Slowly let the fish SWIM OUT!

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17. Maintaining your tank B.Ammonia Tests (only done the 1st week you have a new organism) -Ammonia is poisonous to marine organisms. -We need B ENEFICIAL B ACTERIA in the B IOWHEEL to B REAK it down! -Test tells us when tank is ready for more sensitive fishes.

17. Maintaining your tank -Ammonia level will increase as fish ( starter fish ) produce waste (days 1-3). -Bacteria will begin to grow to break down the ammonia (after day 3). -Ammonia levels go down as the Biowheel improves. Test kit is made for salt water OR fresh water. Make sure you choose the right box!

17. Maintaining your tank 1. Water Quality Check A. pH  acidic vs. basic *Use dip strips to measure pH. *Do test 1/week or 1/month ESPECIALLY when adding something new! *Choose the correct pH test for your tank (SW or FW)

17. Maintaining your tank C. Nitrite Tests- Should be ZERO -Nitrite is bacteria’s waste D.Nitrate Tests -Should be ZERO -Will never actually be zero (unless you have live plants).

17. Maintaining your tank 2.Water Change -1-2 x per month change 20% of the water. Examples: 2 gallons/20 gallon tank 4 gallons/20 gallon tank -Siphon water out with a Siphon Tube into bucket. -Replace with * AGED * water - Aged Water : water must sit in buckets for minimum 24 hrs to allow dangerous substances (chlorine) to evaporate out.

NEED TO KNOW AMMONIA  NITRITE  NITRATE

17. Maintaining your tank -Freshwater tanks need Freshwater -Saltwater tanks need Saltwater- only add salt water when doing a tank change. - HOW DO YOU CHECK? 3.Filter pad -clean once a month -replace blue pad once every three months or when needed

Step 18. Care of Fish-Feeding Fish’s stomachs are about the size of their eyeball (they don’t know when to stop eating)! #1 cause of tank organism death is OVERFEEDING ! Determine best diet for organism Feed small amount – only as much food as fish can eat in 2 minutes then remove excess.

Step 18 – Care of Fish Observe and record behavior Need to establish baseline for comparison Observe fish for 20 minutes or more for several days

Step 18 – Care of Fish Observe and Record Behavior Things to observe… –favorite spot in the tank –diagram of its body and fins noting markings and coloration –behavior toward tank mates and their behavior towards it –gill movements-count and record for 1 minute –eating pattern and how it eats record in log

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