Jacquard Fabric on Circular Knitting machine Part 2: Non-conventional Single Jersey Jacquard Fabrics Jimmy Lam Institute of Textiles & Clothing

Learning Objectives n More Jacquard Fabrics More Jacquard Fabrics More Jacquard Fabrics n Drop stitch jacquard Drop stitch jacquard Drop stitch jacquard n Jacquard Fishnet Jacquard Fishnet Jacquard Fishnet n Jacquard Inlay Jacquard Inlay Jacquard Inlay n Jacquard Purl Jacquard Purl Jacquard Purl n Jacquard Terry Jacquard Terry Jacquard Terry

More Jacquard Fabric n n So far, our discussion is on conventional jacquard fabric based on knit, tuck and miss method. n n However, we can create a lot of jacquard fabrics based on different colour, different material, different machine gauge and yarn count. n n All those methods require special attachment on the machine (says, feeding two yarns together, or making a hole on the fabric), we call this as non- conventional jacquard method.

Drop Stitch Jacquard n A kind of jacquard lace or eyelet fabric on single jersey machine n The formation of holes or eyelets is by pressing off the selected needles and allows the loops to drop for a predetermined number of courses.

Drop Stitch Fabric Extra large loop is formed by pressing off these needles

Drop Stitch Knitting Sequence n A tightly knitted plain course is used to stop laddering n Slack courses for drop stitches n A feeder with selection mechanism to select needles to clearing height, and feed no yarn to these needles. The result is loops will be pressed off. n The next feeder is knitting plain course, a latch opener is used to open all latch on those empty needles.

Jacquard Fishnet fabrics n Also known as float plating and is used for girls’ half hose or stocking n The structure is composed of two different yarns n One is fine denier “nylon”, the other is thick cotton n Both yarns are fed to the needles on same feeder with nylon fed to all needles, cotton is fed to selected needles.

Fishnet is formed by knitting two yarns at the same time with different thickness Fine yarn as ground Coarse yarn as pattern

Jacquard Fishnest Fabric n The result is nylon is knitting plain, forming the ground and the cotton is knitting knit and miss, forming the pattern. n See through/lace effect is obtained on those needles that miss cotton yarn n A special sinker top machine is needed

Jacquard inlay and puckerette n For jacquard inlay fabrics, it is the technical back of the fabric is used as the effective side, showing the pattern by float of thick or fancy yarn n Puckerette is a fine gauge plain knit fabric with the insertion of elastic yarn at the back in pre-determined interval. The fabric when relaxed, shrinked tremendously on the width and the fabric surface becomes way and cooked

Puckerette Fabric Plain Knit with Elastic Yarn

Eyelet fabric Special machine is needed to form a eyelet fabric

Jacquard Purl Fabric n A special type of jacquard fabric n Patterns are composed of technical face loops and back loops on “the single knit fabric”. n Because two type of loops give different amount of light reflection, therefore, patterns are made of different shade portions in single colour. n The special machine is called “double cylinder” machine.

Jacquard Purl fabric Note: Technical face and back loops are on one side

Jacquard Terry fabric n Colour jacquard pattern terry; and n Sculptured jacquard pattern terry n It is the extra large sinker loops on the technical back of fabric that create the pattern n A special terry fabric machine with horizontal sinker wheel is used.

Jacquard Terry Fabric Terry Loops formed by special Sinkers Ground yarn Normal knitting