Ocean Wave and Current Erosion

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Presentation transcript:

Ocean Wave and Current Erosion Or . . . Whoa Sally, this ocean has motion!

Wave Motions Particles in a wave travel circular paths The water in a deep-water wave does not move forward

The Highest Recorded Ocean Wave

When Waves Meet the Shore When the beach interferes with wave motion, the wave steepens and the top overtakes the bottom.

Kowabunga!

Wave Refraction Waves change path when they reach shallow water Wave energy is concentrated on headlands and spread out in bays

Shore Erosion Wave energy can carve out arches in the headlands. Overtime a sea stack is formed.

Rip Tides When waves break parallel to a beach, rip currents or rip tides occur.

Longshore Current and Beach Drift Most beach sand is created by weathering and carried to coasts by rivers. Beach sand moves along the coast by the longshore current and beach drift.

Barrier Island Long, narrow islands of sand and/or gravel that are usually aligned parallel to the shore.

Trying to save the beach Man has tried to save beaches by building groins that retard the flow of sand with the longshore current. These are of limited success.

We foolishly build right on the beach.

In the long run, nothing is as futile as trying to resist shoreline change. Change can be resisted for a while, but when the water wants something badly enough, it will come in and take it.