MET 102 Pacific Climates and Cultures Lecture 13: Ocean Currents and Waves MET 102 Pacific Climates and Cultures.

Slides:



Advertisements
Similar presentations
Ocean Movements.
Advertisements

Ocean Waves and Tides.
Waves, Tides, and Currents
The Reality of Sending a Message in a Bottle
Guided Notes about Ocean Movements Chapter 15, Section 3.
Section 2 and 3 Ocean Waves and Tides
Ocean Waves and Tides (67)
 Currents that run along the western coast of the United States are _________________.  Currents that run along the eastern coast of the United States.
Chapter 16 The Dynamic Ocean
Ocean Motions Text references are given but remember I always give you more!
9.2 Ocean Waves, Tides and Currents
Movements of the Ocean Chapter 21.
Ocean Currents The Reality of Sending a Message in a Bottle.
Oceanic Circulation Current = a moving mass of water.
The Reality of Sending a Message in a Bottle
Ocean Waves & Tides. Waves The result of repeated and periodic disturbances that cause energy to be transported through water. Very little water is transported.
Ocean Waves and Tides.
Waves, Tides, and Currents
Divisions of the Global Ocean 1. Atlantic second largest a) Average depth of 3.6 km 2. Pacific largest ocean and feature on Earth’s surface a) Contains.
Movements of the Ocean Chapter 22.
Chapter 3 Part II. Ocean Circulation  The ocean is always moving.  This circulation affects marine organisms, their habitats, and the earth’s climate.
Waves, Currents and Tides
Ocean Motions Information to help you along in Earth science.
Oceans, Waves and Tides Marine Biome.
The Movement of Ocean Water
OCEAN CURRENTS AND CLIMATE. Ocean Currents and Climate There are two types of Ocean Currents: 1. Surface Currents are driven by surface wind circulation.
OCEAN CURRENTS.
–wave –crest –trough –breaker Objectives Describe the physical properties of waves. Explain how tides form. Compare and contrast various ocean currents.
Part 5: Motion of the Ocean
A Wave is… a rhythmic movement that carries energy through matter or space. In oceans, waves move through seawater…
Why does the ocean move? The tides, waves, and currents cause motion in the ocean They are the result of interactions of many forces and factors Conditions.
Waves, Tides, and Ocean Currents UNIT 8 STANDARDS: NCES 2.1.1, 2.1.3, LESSON 2.
Ocean Waves and Tides Waves A Wave is a rhythmic movement that carries energy through matter or space. A Wave is a rhythmic movement that carries energy.
Movements of the Oceans
Ocean Motion Part 1: Waves. Define wave: Wave – a rhythmic movement that carries energy through matter or space. Wave – a rhythmic movement that carries.
Ch. 3: Chemical & Physical Features of Seawater & the World Ocean Motion in the Ocean.
Ocean Waves and Tides. Waves A Wave is a rhythmic movement that carries energy through matter or space. A Wave is a rhythmic movement that carries energy.
Motions Of The Ocean Waves
Unit 3 – Oceanography Section 3: Currents, Waves, and Tides
Chapter III Waves and Tides.
Tides Tides The rise and fall in sea level is called a tide. The rise and fall in sea level is called a tide. Caused by a giant wave. Caused by a giant.
Ocean Currents p. 36 Ocean waters are constantly on the move. How they move influences climate and living conditions for plants and animals, even on land.
Physical and Chemical Oceanography Part 1: Chemistry.
Waves Chapter 9.
Complete the #1-5 on page 3 of the sheet entitled, “Standardized Test Prep”. Answer all questions to the best of your ability. You may write on this sheet.
Movements of the Ocean 22.1 Ocean Currents How do we track currents? It’s not like we can follow a piece of water...
EARTH SCIENCE Prentice Hall EARTH SCIENCE Tarbuck Lutgens 
DYNAMIC OCEAN Chapter 16. SURFACE CIRCULATION  Surface currents  Move horizontally on the upper surface of the ocean  Wind blowing across the surface.
Ocean Movements EES Unit 4.2.
Ocean Waves and Tides.
Ocean composition.
Currents, Tides, Waves.
Ocean Waves and Tides.
Ocean Waves and Tides.
Ocean Waves and Tides.
Section 3: Ocean Movements
Ocean Motion Vocabulary
Ocean Waves and Tides.
Currents Where are the Oceans? Identify the Oceans Tides Waves
The World’s Oceans.
Unit 1 Structure and Motion Part 2
Ocean Waves and Tides.
Ocean Waves and Tides.
Ocean Waves and Tides.
How do the oceans move? Waves, Currents, Tides
Ocean Movements 15.3.
Ocean Waves and Tides.
Ocean Waves and Tides.
Presentation transcript:

MET 102 Pacific Climates and Cultures Lecture 13: Ocean Currents and Waves MET 102 Pacific Climates and Cultures

Discussion Questions – Press and Siever 1999 How can you increase the height of waves? How can you increase the height of waves? The height of the waves increases as: 1.The wind speed increases 2.The wind blows for longer times 3.The distance over which the wind blows the water increases What three characteristics do we use to describe waves? What three characteristics do we use to describe waves? 1.Wavelength – The distance between crests 2.Wave height – the vertical distance between the crest and the trough 3.Period – The time it takes for successive waves to pass

Discussion Questions – Finney 1959 What are the three general forms of ancient Hawaiian surfing? Who surfed? What are the three general forms of ancient Hawaiian surfing? Who surfed? body-surfing (kaha nalu) outrigger-canoe-surfing (probably called no ka pakaka ale) surfboarding (he’e nalu) Everyone, Men, Women, Children, Chiefs, Commoners – It’s the national sport of Hawaii What were the two different types of surfboards used in ancient Hawaii? Who were allowed to use them? What were the two different types of surfboards used in ancient Hawaii? Who were allowed to use them? olo – a long, narrow board reserved exclusively for chiefs alaia – shorter thinner boards for commoners

Ocean Current Layers Pycnocline – the layer between surface and deep waters; where a rapid change in temperature, salinity and density occur Deep Current – lower 90% of the ocean Surface Currents – upper 10% of the ocean; upper 400 m TROPICS

Ocean Water Properties How they impact ocean currents Temperature – remember heat rises! Salinity – remember salty water sinks! Density – a function of temperature and salinity

Temperature and Ocean Currents

Primary Ocean Current Forcing These Start the Water MOVING: Sun/solar heating - causes water to expand and move Winds - push the water; winds blowing for 10 hrs across ocean will cause the surface water to ~2% wind speed; wind has the greatest effect on surface currents Gravity - pull water downhill or pile against the pressure gradient (high/low); influences tides Coriolis Force/Effect – Rotational effect, pulling to the right in the Northern Hemisphere and to the left in the Southern Hemisphere

Wind Driven Ocean Currents

Surface Currents Surface current – with surface circulation is less dense and influenced by winds 1.Warm surface currents: wind and Earth’s rotation 2.Cold surface currents: flow towards the equator 3.Upwelling current: cold, nutrient rich; result of wind 4.Western Boundary currents: warm & fast 5.Eastern Boundary currents: broad, slow, cool & shallow, associated with upwelling Ex: Gulf Stream = surface current that is the upper 20% of the ocean, western boundary current

Deep Ocean Currents Deep water – cold, dense, salty; move by density forces and gravity; move slower than layers above Thermohaline Circulation driven by: differences in the density of the sea water controlled by temperature (thermal) and salinity (haline). This slow (~0.1 m/s), but giant circulation has a flow equal to about 100 Amazon Rivers. Ex: Global Conveyer Belt = deep current that is the lower 20% of the ocean; takes 1,000 years to complete the cycle.

Ocean Conveyor Belt – Thermohaline Circulation

Ocean Gyres Gyres – large mounds of water; large circular currents in the ocean basin Ex: South Pacific Gyre = consists of 4 separate currents – S. Equatorial, East Australian Current, Peru Current and the West Wind Drift.

WAVES

What is a Wave? A Wave is a rhythmic movement that carries energy through matter or space. In oceans, waves move through seawater

Parts of a Wave Crest – highest point of a wave Trough – lowest point of a wave Wave Height – vertical distance between the crest and the trough Wavelength – horizontal distance between two crests or two troughs

Wave Movement When a wave passes through the ocean, individual water molecules move up and down but they do not move forward or backward.

Wave Movement When a wave breaks against the shore, the crest outruns the trough and the crest collapses. Called a breaker. In this case, water does move forward and backward. Waves Break in the Surf Zone

Types of Breakers Spilling breaker Top of wave crest ‘spills over’ wave. Energy released gradually across entire surf zone. Plunging breaker Crest ‘curls over’ front of wave. Energy dissipates quickly. Common at shorelines with steep slopes Surging breaker Never breaks as it never attains critical wave steepness. Common along upwardly sloping beach faces or seawalls. Energy released seaward.

Wave Refraction The part of the wave crest closer to shore is in shallower water and moving slower than the part away from the shore in deeper water. The wave crest in deeper water catches up so that the wave crest tends to become parallel to the shore.

Idealized Wave Spectrum Waves come in different shapes and sizes with differences in wave height and wave period.

Wind Generated Waves Most of the waves present on the ocean’s surface are wind-generated waves. Size and type of wind-generated waves are controlled by: wind velocity wind duration Fetch (distance over the sea surface) original state of the sea surface. As wind velocity increases wavelength, period and height increase, but only if wind duration and fetch are sufficient. CALM WIND STORMY WIND

Fetch Fetch is the area of contact between the wind and the water and is where wind-generated waves begin. Seas is the term applied to the sea state of the fetch when there is a chaotic jumble of new waves. Waves continue to grow until the sea is fully developed or becomes limited by fetch restriction or wind duration.

Fetch and Wave Shape Swells: wave type found outside the fetch. Chaotic seas inside fetch area.

Tides The rise and fall in sea level is called a tide. Caused by a giant wave. One low-tide/high-tide cycle takes about 12 hrs and 25 min. Tidal range is the difference in ocean level between high-tide and low- tide

Tides Two big bulges of water form on the Earth: one directly under the moon another on the exact opposite side As the Earth spins, the bulges follow the moon.

Tides Spring Tides Earth, Moon, and Sun are lined up High Tides are higher and Low Tides are lower than normal Neap Tides Earth, Moon, and Sun form right angles High Tides are lower and Low Tides are higher than normal

Global Tidal Patterns Semidiurnal two high and two low tides of approximately equal size every lunar day. Diurnal Diurnal one high and one low tide every lunar day. Mixed Semidiurnal two high and two low tides of different size every lunar day.

Hanauma Bay Predicted Tides What type of tidal cycle do you see here? Semi-diurnal? The combination of diurnal, semi-diurnal and fortnightly cycles dominates variations in sea level throughout the islands.

Hawaii Island – Tidal Currents Tidal currents result from tidal variations of sea level, and near shore are often stronger than the large scale circulation.