What Causes Waves? ¥ Wind ¥ Submarine disturbance ¥ Gravitational attraction of sun and moon.

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Presentation transcript:

What Causes Waves? ¥ Wind ¥ Submarine disturbance ¥ Gravitational attraction of sun and moon

Wind Generation of Waves ¥ Wind velocity ¥ Wind duration ¥ Fetch (distance over which wind blows) ¥ Simply put, wave size increases as all these factors increase.

Wave Motions ¥ Forward movement of the wave form. ¥ Orbital motion of water particles beneath the wave. ¥ It is wave energy, NOT water molecules, that moves across the sea surface.

Deep Water Waves Waves do NOT interact with the seafloor. Orbits of the water molecules are circular.

Shallow Water Waves Waves DO interact with the seafloor. Orbits of the water molecules become elliptical.

Rogue Waves? ¥ Constructive wave interference - wave buildup

Rogue Waves

Shallow Waves Affected by Bottom ¥ In shallow water, the sea bottom transforms the wave’s properties. This leads to wave refraction and waves collapse forming surf (breakers).

Transformation of Shallow-water Waves

Motion of Water Particles Beneath Waves

Wave Videos Reflection off a sea wall: Big wave at beach: eature=player_embedded#at=131 Tacoma narrows bridge: qIGXaSdPEn0AIxT7w8QF?p=tacoma+narrows+bridge &b=21&tnr=20