SIO Waves & Beaches Core Observations & Predictions of  Nearshore waves  Surfzone currents  Beach change Regional Coastal Ocean Observing Systems Integrated Observations & Predictions of  Physical,  Chemical, and  Biological properties of the coastal ocean. State and Federal Agencies  NOAA/NWS/NCEP  USACE  USGS  FEMA Private Sector Businesses  Engineering firms  Marine weather providers General Public  Coastal Safety  Coastal Planning  Marine Navigation  Marine Recreation

SIO Waves and Beaches Model Prediction (MOP) System Wave Monitoring  Wave Buoy Network  NOAA WW3 Forecasts Surfzone Monitoring  Current Measurements  Dye/Drifter Tracking  Jetski Sand level Surveys Beach Modeling  Beach width change  Inundation levels Coastal Wave Modeling  Breaking wave heights  Radiation stresses (Sxx,Sxy) Beach Monitoring  LIDAR  ATV Sand level surveys Surfzone Modeling  Current Direction & Speed  Bottom Velocities Public Access To Core Coastal Environment Variables Via “MOP Sites”

Alongcoast Model Prediction “MOP” Sites - 10m water depth m alongshore spacing.

CA Counties with Operational MOP Wave Information

Each MOP Site also has an associated cross-shore MOP Transect and MOP Polygon.

Predicted surfzone averaged alongshore currents will be provided for each MOP transect on a relatively straight beach without obstructions. A seasonal cross-shore bathymetry profile is assumed if there is no recent survey data. MOP Alongshore Currents

MOP Site Inundation Predicted Inundation Elevations will be provided for transects with simple shoreline profiles Known elevation that results in parking lot flooding at this location

Each MOP Polygon contains a set of MOP Sandboxes.

Torrey Pines (MOP SD0584) Beach Width Change Width Change (m) Date model measured MOP Beach Width Change A data-adaptive cross-shore radiation stress (Sxx) model will provide beach change predictions for MOP Polygons with sufficient beach survey information.