Everything you need to know about Patterns….. Apparel I 4.00 Pattern and Fabric Preparation

Objective 3.01 B Understanding Patterns Start Date: 10/19 Essential Questions: What are the parts of the pattern? What are the pattern symbols and how are they used in garment construction? What are the sections of a guide sheet and how are they used?

Pattern Envelope Photo Pattern Number # Cost Sizes Available Suggested Fabrics Notions Yardage Measurements /size Sketch

Pattern Basics A pattern is a blueprint with all the instructions to construct a project Three essential parts: Pattern envelope Guide sheet Tissue pattern pieces

Guide Sheet Includes: cutting layout sewing instructions finished product sketches other special information

Pattern Pieces & Symbols Fewer pattern pieces= easier pattern

Things to be aware of on the Pattern Pieces! Pattern piece name/number or letter Front or back Number of pieces to cut

Cutting line (solid outline) Grain line (parallel line, designates placement on grain) Lines to be aware of!! Cutting line (solid outline) Stitching/seam line (broken line, usually 5/8”) Hem line (indicates how much depth to be turned up for hem) Adjustment line (double parallel lines where can be shortened or lengthened)

Brackets (Place on Fold Line) Center front and back Indicates the center front or back of garment Center front Overlap Brackets (Place on Fold Line) Requires solid line to be placed on fold of fabric Usually seen at center front or back May also be represented by only a line with “place on fold” printed.

Darts Notches Triangular shapes to designate fold and stitching Control fullness Stitching line Fold line Notches Diamond shaped symbols Used for matching seams and joining garment pieces.

Dots, Squares, or Triangles matches pieces of fabric great for places with easing (like sleeves) Sometimes to indicate placement of details like pockets or zippers Buttonhole Placement Shows exact location and length of each buttonhole . .

Multi-sized Patterns Have many different sizes on same piece Mark cutting line to remember which size before cutting– use a highlighter They do not have a seam line on them

Laying out patterns

Fabric Cutting Layouts The diagram on the guide sheet that shows how to arrange the different pattern pieces on 45” or 60” fabric Select your layout diagram based on: the view of the pieces fabric width fabric type size

Fabric Grains Selvage – two finished edges, do not ravel or fray Lengthwise grain – runs in the same direction as the selvage, strongest threads. Crosswise grain – runs across fabric from one selvage to the other, usually has slight stretch. Bias – runs diagonally across the fabric. Has the most stretch. **Groups do fabric demo

Fabric Folds Lengthwise Fold Crosswise Fold Fold fabric in half lengthwise with right sides together Crosswise Fold Fold perpendicular to selvages

Center/Double Fold Partial Fold Folded twice along the lengthwise grain Selvages meet in the middle Partial Fold Fold fabric only wide enough to fit the widest pattern piece needed on fold

Placement of pattern pieces A shaded pattern piece on a cutting layout indicates that the piece should be turned printed side down FIRST: place the pieces on the fold or the largest ones Refer to pattern piece for number of fabric pieces to cut by each pattern Place all pattern pieces on fabric before pinning any to fabric, and especially before cutting!!!! Follow layout diagram exactly or at least get pattern pieces to fit with all on proper grain

Fabric Prep, Pinning, Cutting, and marking

Fabric Preparation Preshrink fabrics by washing Helps straighten grain Removes some fabric finishes Shows how it will be when finished garment

Pinning Pin the grain line first! Place pins about every 6” Pins should be perpendicular to fabric/pattern edge (cutting line). Place pins closer in curves Place pins diagonally in corners

Cutting Use dressmaker shears Cut with long, smooth cuts Keep fabric & Pattern flat on surface Notches should be cut away from seam allowance. Double notches should be cut together with one long edge.

Marking Mark areas with important features Mark dots & squares Mark darts Mark only on the wrong side of fabric. Remove before pressing- or what happens??

Quick Things you should know! Where can you find care instructions for fabric? What information is on a pattern piece? What information is on the guide sheets? What pattern symbols assist you in matching pattern pieces?