2005 Tropical Storms Storm tracks generally fall into three categories: 1) Atlantic U-turns 2) Gulf coast strikers 3) East coast skirters http://www.nasa.gov/mpg/126449main_katrina_fred_animation.mpg.

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Presentation transcript:

2005 Tropical Storms Storm tracks generally fall into three categories: 1) Atlantic U-turns 2) Gulf coast strikers 3) East coast skirters http://www.nasa.gov/mpg/126449main_katrina_fred_animation.mpg

1999 Tropical Storms

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Wave Anatomy - Periodic Waves Can think of waves w.r.t. a spatial framework, or w.r.t. a temporal framework. T = wave period f = wave frequency = 1/T L = wave length C = L/T = phase velocity or celerity H = wave height  = water surface displacement h = water depth d = horizontal water particle orbital diameter s = vertical water particle orbital diameter u = horizontal water particle velocity w = vertical water particle velocity

Motion of water in waves Red dot on the surface - sees the wave form pass, but moves in a circular orbit When red dot is at bottom of it’s orbital, it’s in the trough of the wave, when at the top of its orbital, it’s at the crest of the wave Orbital size (diameter) decreases with depth Waves propagate through the medium

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Surf Zone Wave Decay and Energy Dissipation Steep, reflective beaches - Wave breaking (and energy dissipation) is concentrated through plunging breakers. Broken wave surges up the beach as runup. Wave energy dissipation pattern depends on morphology of the beach Villano Beach Low-slope, dissipative beaches - Extensive, wide surf zone over which spilling breakers dissipate energy. At any time, several broken wave bores, and smaller unbroken waves, are visible. Anastasia Island

Wave Speed - Nearshore How fast does a Laird Hamilton surf? wave speed C = (gh)1/2 tow-in waves: H = ~8 m C = (10 m/s2 * 10 m)1/2 ~ 10 m/s ~25 mph! waves “surfable” by mortals: C = (10 m/s2 * 2 m)1/2 ~ 4.4 m/s ~9 mph!