Aquariums come in four main types divided by salinity and then further divided into other types Freshwater – salinities less than 0.5 ppt. Saltwater – contains water and organisms found in the ocean at salinities of 30-35 ppt. Brackish water – organisms from estuaries were freshwater from rivers or streams mix with saltwater. Most are maintained at 24-28 ppt. Brine – Brine shrimp (sea monkeys) kept at salinities above 50 ppt.

Freshwater Tanks - Community Most commonly kept aquarium at 10 gallons or above. Fish are non-aggressive towards other species or their own species Examples include: Mollies Platys Guppies Tetras Most fish at the pet store!

Freshwater Tanks – Semi-Aggressive Fish that can be aggressive towards other species or their own species. Require larger tanks with smaller numbers and more places to hide. Examples Oscars Freshwater puffers Goldfish

Freshwater Tanks – Specialty Tanks Betta Highly aggressive; single fish in small tank with little or no filtration. Cichlid Aggressive toward non-cichlid species. Highly colorful From only 3 Lakes in Africa Slider Freshwater green turtles Need something to come out of water onto Koi Usually kept in indoor or outdoor ponds Fast growers

Saltwater Tanks – Coral Reef Organisms that are common to the coral reefs of the Caribbean Sea, Indonesia, or the Great Barrier Reef. Corals (real or fake) are needed for structure and shelter. Organisms include Angelfish Anemones Clownfish Damsels Tangs Wrasse

Saltwater Tanks – Live Rock Organisms found around rocky features. Rocks contain organisms that help maintain water quality. Examples include Anemones Eels Cleaner Shrimp Tube worms Lionfish

Saltwater Tanks – Sand and Round Organisms found in areas with sandy bottoms Often contain plants (fake usually) Calcium based sand such as crushed coral (not river sand) Round Tanks Needed for sensitive or high energy animals Corners lead to injury, no corners = less injuries Examples include Jellyfish Sharks Rays

Brackish Tanks – Estuary Animals Crab Tank Pipefish Aggressive Seahorses Eat almost anything Lookdowns Escape Blennies Nursery Tank Juveniles and small fish that hatch and live in estuary. Usually shrimp eaters. Predator tank Few medium sized or single large fish Eat shrimp or live fish Sensitive tank Small fish that are easily attacked Examples

Aquarium Set-Up The start of a hobby…

First the basics: Safety Electrocution is real; use drip loops Wet floors are slippery- always walk with caution Place all your school supplies safely on your desk (not the floor) Glass aquariums are not drop, ding, shatter proof. Use caution Follow all the instructions included in this presentation You should be taking notes right now. If you don’t know- ASK!

Aquarium Supplies

Materials KNOW USE/PURPOSE OF EACH!!!! Aquarium Tank Filter Air Pump Plastic Tubing Thermometers Substrate Hydrometer Synthetic Sea Salts Test Kits Vacuum Fish Net Food KNOW USE/PURPOSE OF EACH!!!!

So how should we start? Counter top- Aquarium- Clean off and dry area where the tank will be kept. Aquarium- Rinse the tank thoroughly (NO SOAP or DETERGENTS) Use only freshwater Anything else can leave a harmful residue This includes any cleaning materials ; brushes, sponges, rags, etc. Dry and inspect for chips, cracks, loose sealant Place in your assigned area

Substrate Rinse until water begins to run clear NO SOAP or DETERGENTS Be sure to stir around the substrate while rinsing Distribute substrate along bottom of the aquarium evenly (about 1-1.5 inches deep)

Installing the Filter Undergravel Filter This step will be done BEFORE adding the substrate Clean off the under-gravel filter grate Clean out any tubes or hoses used for the filter. REMEMBER NO SOAP! Assemble the filter place on bottom of aquarium Be sure air stones, and Carbon cartridges have been installed correctly Add substrate

Undergravel Filter

Installing the Filter Power Filter/ Biowheel Clean all elements of the filter Use scrub brushes, pads, and test-tube brushes Ensure that propeller and motor are functioning properly (clean of any algae or debris) Assemble powerfilter/ biowheel. Hang on rear of aquarium with water intake inside of the aquarium, and basket on outside Add charged carbon packet and filter floss

Power Filter

BioWheel

Decorations If you purchased or are using decorations: Be sure you have cleaned and rinsed all decorations in freshwater Double check for algae build-up Clean off if found Place on substrate where desired

Making the Salt H2O Use the clean 5 gallon buckets to add H2O Add 400mL of salt to bucket That’s two (2) 200 mL beakers Add 5 mL of Aquarium de-chlorinator That’s about ¼ of the top of the cap If you’re not sure ASK!!! Fill the bucket with water about 5 inches from the top. Stir and let set for about a minute

Adding the Salt H2O Using the hydrometer, check the salinity The salinity for a good Salt-water tank should be around 28 ppt (+/- 1ppt is ok) If it is less: more salt is needed (not much) If it is greater: more freshwater is needed

Adding the Salt H2O Have one person cup their hands together above the aquarium Two other people will help steady and pour the bucket of water SLOWLY into the first person’s hands. All water should overflow from the person’s hands and into the aquarium Spilled water will result in low scores This prevents stirring up the substrate you already worked on, and helps keep the water clear so it doesn’t clog your filter

Adding the Salt H2O When you have finished adding the first bucket of water gauge how much more you need. Make more buckets of water Be sure to use the previously stated method. Yes, Each bucket needs ALL of those ingredients EVERY TIME!!!!! Add more buckets of water until the tank has been filled to within 1 inch of the top. This is even with the trim piece at the top of the aquarium If you have extra, give it to another group, DO NOT just pour it down the sink. SALT IS EXPENSIVE, Do NOT waste!

Starting your Aquarium Now you are ready to get the aquarium up and running 1st clean the surrounding area of any drops of water This step should be quick because spilled water reduces your grade Dry off any equipment and put away. Be sure all Electrical Equipment and plugs are completely dry before attempting to plug them in. When you are sure everything is clean, dry, and put away, you may proceed.

Starting your Aquarium Under-gravel Filters Attach air hoses to air pump. Plug in air pump. Power Filters Make sure motor and propeller are correctly installed and in the locked position Add water to the reservoir in the back of the filter. Fill this reservoir until you see water running out of the front. Plug in filter. Replace Lid to filter when you see the siphon created in the tube.

Your First Specimen! Add your hermit crab(s) to your tank! He will get the nitrogen cycle established before your new specimens reach the tank. This will make it inhabitable for others. Record all steps taken in your Aquarium Maintenance Journal This will be your routine maintenance log. EVERYTHING that you do MUST be recorded! This accounts for a large sum of your grade the next few 6 weeks.

What is the nitrogen cycle? So what’s next? What is the nitrogen cycle?

Waste Control In nature, animals and plants live in open ecosystems In aquariums, animals and plants live in closed ecosystems What this means is that chemical reactions and accumulations occur in the aquarium that you would not find in the ocean

Population Density Population density is the amount of organisms in a given space. This factor in a natural (open) ecosystem is much lower than in an aquarium Waste products in a natural ecosystem don’t build up as much or as quickly. Aquariums are not as stable as the ocean

So how do we flush? PARTIAL WATER CHANGES The single most important factor for a successful aquarium 100% change daily would simulate river conditions 10-50% biweekly is our goal Removes built up dissolved waste matter like ammonia, nitrites, nitrates, HCO3-, & CO2 Replenishes trace elements

Types of Filtration

Biological Filtration Performed by bacteria in gravel and on fish Beneficial bacteria break down waste products in the nitrogen cycle Substrate, undergravel filters, filter floss, biowheel provided places for these bacteria to live

Mechanical Filtration Removes accumulated organic and inorganic particulates Usually accomplished with mesh in an electric pump or gravel when an undergravel filter is used Can also be manually removed with a gravel vacuum

Chemical Filtration Purifies water using activated carbon-dissolved impurities are absorbed by holes in carbon Activated carbon must be replaced Minimize use of chemical/medicines to rid tank of problems

Sterilizing Filtration Kills bacteria and other microorganisms UV light- Light beyond the visible spectrum (short wavelength)

The Good, The Bad, The Ugly Nitrogen The Good, The Bad, The Ugly

The Good, The Bad, The Ugly Nitrogen The Good, The Bad, The Ugly

Testing – Ammonia Excreted by animal in wastes Extremely toxic above 4 ppm (parts per million) Ammonification: process by which decomposing bacteria convert the decaying matter into ammonia. Bacteria are needed to convert to less toxic forms. (nitrogen cycle) Measured using a dropper test kit (2 bottles) Can use chemical such as Ammo Lock if levels are too high

Ammonia Something we have to keep a close eye on! Makes it’s first apperance as ammonia (metabolic waste and uneaten food), which is extremely toxic to all aquatic life. Ammonification: process by which decomposing bacteria convert the decaying matter into ammonia.

Testing – Nitrite Middle step of Nitrogen Cycle Dangerous at levels above 2 ppm Bacteria needed to continue to next step Measured using dropper test kit (1 bottle) Nitrosomonas, a chemosythetic bacteria, present in the aquarium oxidize the toxic ammonia into nitrite.

Nitrite Nitrosomonas, a chemosythetic bacteria, present in the aquarium oxidize the toxic ammonia into nitrite. Nitrite is not as harmful to aquatic life, but it is still harmful. Another group of bacteria (nitrobacters) convert the nitrite to “non-toxic” nitrate-this is the final step of nitrification!

Testing – Nitrate Final step in Nitrogen Cycle Another group of bacteria (nitrobacters) convert the nitrite to “non-toxic” nitrate-this is the final step of nitrification! Dangerous at levels above 80 ppm Measured using dropper test kit (2 bottles) Removed from water: Naturally by plants, algae, & photosynthetic bacteria In closed ecosystems like ours through partial water changes

Nitrate Most aquatic life can tolerate moderate levels of nitrate if it accumulates slowly. In the ocean plants and algae help remove nitrate from water; however, in our aquariums we have a problem as we do not have any live plants. (also remember closed ecosystem) The only sure fire way to keep nitrate, nitrite, ammonia and other toxins down is to perform a partial water change regularly. We will go into more depth about the nitrogen cycle later on in class. It is very important that you understand this cycle completely!!

Other substances to monitor Phosphate-not very toxic. Created from the decomposition of metabolic wastes, uneaten food, and dead plants and animals. Calcium-organisms that produce skeletons, exoskeletons, or shells require a source of calcium. Iodine and strontium-trace elements important to marine organisms. These are found in out sea salt mix that we use! If needed we will check the level of these in your tank and add supplements if needed.

You’ll be recording the values of these in your journal regularly Water Parameters You’ll be recording the values of these in your journal regularly

Water Parameters Temperature pH Salinity and specific gravity Phosphates Ammonia/nitrite/nitrates Trace elements Organics

Temperature Freshwater Saltwater can range from 32° to 90° in nature ideal range in classroom is 70-75 degrees How will you moderate the temperature in your aquarium? can range from 28° to 85° in nature ideal range in classroom varies according to your species How will you moderate the temperature in your aquarium?

Testing – pH Critical to chemistry of water Most fish have small pH tolerance range Low range pH (most freshwater tanks) 6.8 and 7.2 High range pH (salt, brackish, and a few fresh) 8.0 and 8.4 Measured using dropper test kit (1 bottle) Buffers resist fluctuations in pH. Substrate (crushed coral) Also found in sea salt mix

pH Freshwater Saltwater Should be maintained between 6.8- 7.2 FYI Peat moss can lower high pHs Baking soda can increase low pHs Aquarium specific buffering agents are preferred Should be maintained between 7.9- 8.4 Buffers resist fluctuations in pH. Substrate (crushed coral) Also found in sea salt mix

What Does pH Mean To Your Aquarium? 14 13 12 11 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 Fatal to plants and animals What Does pH Mean To Your Aquarium? Suited to only a few specialized species Favorable to marine plants/animals Favorable to freshwater plants/animals Suitable for most plants/animals from the tropical rain forest Harmful to most plants and animals Fatal to plants and animals

Salinity/ Specific Gravity Freshwater Saltwater Salinity should be 0 ppt Specific gravity will vary with habitat and amount of dissolved solids in the water; should be close to 1.000 Salinity of ocean habitats is 31 - 36 ppt; estuary may vary from 15-55 ppt Specific gravity varies with salinity; ocean aquaria should be between 1.020 and 1.024

Phosphates Freshwater Saltwater Pollution (fertilizers, detergents, etc.) Toxic in large concentrations Encourages growth of algae Decaying algae lower DO level Range should be <.05 ppm Pollution or breakdown of organic materials Non-toxic to marine fish Coat gravel preventing release of Ca and reducing buffering capacity

Ammonia & Dervatives Freshwater Saltwater Caused by overfeeding, overstocking, or decay of dead fish Controlled by plants; tolerated fairly well by animals Range should be 0 ppm Caused by overfeeding, overstocking, or decay of dead fish Controlled by biological filtration and water changes Marine fish very sensitive to even moderate levels

Trace Elements Freshwater Saltwater Provided by diet, plants, bacteria, dissolving minerals in substrate Fewer requirements than marine fish/invertebrates Calcium range: 400-475 mg/L Provided by diet, dissolving substrate Replenished by partial water changes of saltwater Lack of these may shorten life span of fish and invertebrates

Organics Organic matter from: fish wastes, decaying plants/algae, leftover food, dead fish or invertebrates Controlled by mechanical filtration, water changes, current Feed 3X per day; no more than fish can eat in 3-5 minutes Decaying plant matter. Plants are hard to keep alive without proper lighting My advice use plastic plants for decoration If you must have use a live plant choose one that grows well in shaded areas or deeper in the water

Aquatic Life Health Things can get sick

Acclimation We cannot dump our new fish and its water into tanks Place fish in plastic container along with its “home” water. Add water every 5 minutes until the temperature, pH, and specific gravity of the water is the same as the aquarium. You may “dump” fish in tank after 30 minutes.

Signs of Illness Clamped fins, fins held close to the body Frayed fins Bloating (enlarged abdominal area) Enlargement of the eyes Erratic swimming and shimmying Drifting close to the bottom or gasping for air at surface Scraping themselves on plants or filters Loss of appetite or activity White or fuzzy spots on fins or body Parasites on body If an organism appears sick, it should be removed from the tank so as not to contaminate the rest of the organisms Notify me immediately if your fish has any of these signs

Quarantine Tank A tank used to isolate sick fish, or new fish from the rest of the population. Does not need to be fancy or decorated. Needs to be kept with the same water parameters that are kept in the main specimen tanks. A clear hollow tube and a decoration should be provided to allow the fish to hide while recovering.

37 38 Name the type of filtration each part is used for. 39