Introduction to Textile Design

Terms & Definition Structure: simple and compound structure Grain and off-grain Texture Sett Identification of warp and weft Foundation of woven cloth structure Contact field

Terms & Definition Interlacing field Interlacing ratio Free field Open field Formula Number Repeat Number Weave plan Looming plan or drafting plan Lifting plan Denting plan Grammar of textile design

Structure: The technique, how the two series of threads (warp and weft) are interlaced at right angles to each other is called structure. Texture: A term referring to the appearance or hand or other general quality of a fabric. Sett: A term used to indicate the number of ends and picks in a woven cloth. This is usually expressed as: warp × weft: 36 ×36

Simple structure: Ends and picks intersect one another at right angles. There is only one series of warp and weft. All constituent threads are equally responsible for both the aspect of utility or performance in a fabric.

Compound structure May be more than one series of ends or picks. Some of ends or picks may be responsible for the body of the fabric, such as ground yarns; some may be employed for ornamental purposes such as figuring or face yarns. Threads may project out at right angles to the general plane of the fabric

On grain fabric A fabric that is on grain has warp yarns parallel to each other and perpendicular to the filling yarns that move straight across the fabric.

Off grain The angle of interlacement is less or more than 90 degree. It is a fabric fault.

Identification of warp and weft The selvedge always runs in the lengthwise (warp) direction of all fabrics. Most fabrics have lower elongation in warp direction. The warp yarns lie straighter and are more parallel in the fabric because of loom tension. Fancy or special function yarns are usually in the filling direction.

Warp yarns tends to be smaller, are more uniform in structure and appearance and have higher twist, Fabric crimp is usually greater for weft yarns. Fabric characteristics may differentiate between the warp and weft directions. For example: denim has a warp face and satin has warp floats and poplin has a weft rib.

Contact fields These are the contact points between warp and weft crossing at right angle. The number of contact field always equals the product of the number of warp and weft threads. Contact field= RNwa x RNwe

Interlacing field These are the points where a yarn of one system of threads (warp) changes its position in relation to other system. Types: single interlacing field Double interlacing field

Formula number It is a kind of short hand expression of the waving of warp and weft yarn. It gives the information of successive floats. The warp floats coming up are put above the fraction line and the weft floats are put under the fraction line.

Repeat number It indicates the number of warp and weft yarns in the repeat. The repeat number for the warp equals the sum of the figures in the formula number. And for the weft vice versa. For example 1/1 plain weave repeat: 2x2

Interlacing ratio The interlacing ratio of a fabric is the ratio between the actual number of interlacing field and the maximum number of interlacing fields. The degree of interlacing is the interlacing ratio expressed in percentage.

Weave plan It illustrates the interlacing of ends and picks in the fabric under consideration. In the weave plan, space between two vertical lines indicates as warp yarn and the space between two horizontal lines indicates as weft yarn.

Drafting plan or looming plan A draft indicates the number of heald used to produce a definite design and the order in which the warp threads or ends are threaded through the mail eye of the healds. In the drafting plan, space between two vertical lines indicates as warp and space between two horizontal lines indicates as heald shaft.

Lifting plan & Denting plan Lifting plan defines the selection of healds to be raised or lowered on each successive insertion of the pick of weft to produce the pattern. Denting plan: this indicates the order of drawing in the warp threads or ends through the dents of the reed.

Common Fabrics classified by Identifying characteristics • Light weight, transparent, sheer, unbalanced: dimity (also ribweave) • Medium weight, opaque, balanced look, soft hand-oxford cloth, chambray, sail cloth. • Heavy weight, operque, balanced look, soft hand: Hopsack, monk’s cloth. • Heavy weight, opaque, balanced look, crisp hand: duck and canvas.

Systems of drafting 1. Skip drafts This systems is particularly useful is weaving very densely set fabrics. Normally a small number of heald shafts is required, but to avoid overcrowding of heald eyes and to reduce friction and rubbing, more than minimum heald shafts are used.

Point draft Point drafts are used for weaves which are symmetrical about the centre. They are frequently employed to produce waved or diamond effects. The main advantage of the system is that is allows the production of a large number of effects with lesser number of heald shafts than those used in straight draft.

Denting plans Denting plans describe the arrangement of the warp ends in the reed (dents are the gaps between the metal reed wires). Denting plans depend on the number of ends per inch and the number of dents per inch in the reed. Denting plans indicate how many inch to be put in one end of the dent. It we place those ends which work alike in the same dent of the reed, there will be same rubbing of ends.