Fig. 10-CO, p. 264
Fig. 10-1, p. 266
Wave direction Wave
Fig. 10-1, p. 266 Wave direction Wave Stepped Art
Fig. 10-2, p. 266
Direction of wave motion AB Wavelength Height Still water level Crest Trough Frequency: Number of wave crests passing point A or point B each second Orbital path of individual water molecule at water surface Period: Time required for wave crest at point A to reach point B
Fig. 10-3, p. 267
Direction of wave motion Wave-length Still water level Crest Trough Crest 1/2 wave- length depth
Fig. 10-4, p. 267
Stokes drift (mass transport) No mass transport Wave Closed orbit after one period Open orbit after one period
Table 10-1, p. 268
Fig. 10-5, p. 269
Seismic disruption Disturbing force landslides GravityWind Restoring force Gravity Surface tension Type of wave TideTsunamiSeicheWind wave Capillary wave (ripple) 24 hr. Amount of energy in ocean surface 100,000 sec (1 1/4 days) 10,000 sec (3 hr) 1,000 sec (17 min) 100 sec10 sec1 sec1/10 sec1/100 sec Period (time, in seconds for two successive wave crests to pass a fixed point) Frequency (waves per second) 12 hr.
Fig. 10-6, p. 269
Fig. 10-7, p. 270
30.6 Wavelength (m) Speed (mph) Period (in seconds) Speed (m/sec) Wavelength (ft) ,312 1,640 1,
Fig. 10-8, p. 271
Wind b a Sea surface Maximum wavelength 1.73 cm (0.68 in.)
Fig. 10-9, p. 271
Fig , p. 272
Stepped Art
Fig , p. 273
Fully developed seas Changing to swell Ripples to chop to wind waves Direction of wave advance Wind Length of fetch
Table 10-2, p. 273
Fig , p. 274
Fig , p. 274
Fig , p. 275
7 across 1 high 120°
Fig , p. 275
12 a b Constructive interference (addition) Destructive interference (subtraction) Constructive interference (addition)
Fig , p. 276
Fig , p. 277
Depth = 1/2 wavelength Surf zone
Box 10-1, p. 278
Fig a, p. 279
Fig b, p. 279
Fig a, p. 279
Direction of progress Wave crests Waves begin to "feel bottom" here, water depth is L/2. Bottom contours Shoreline
Fig b, p. 279
Fig a, p. 280
Fig b, p. 280
Waves A and B create a checkerboard of peaks and troughs A B
Fig , p. 280
Fig , p. 280
(Every tenth wave crest shown) 0 10 Waves moving Islands Areas of wave crest reinforcement due to diffraction and interference
Fig , p. 281
Fig a, p. 281 Node Crest Node Crest Trough No motion Maximum water flow No motion 1 23
Fig b, p. 281 Node Crest Trough Maximum water flow No motion Trough 45 Starts again at 2
Fig a, p. 282
Wind waves on surface Less dense water Pycnocline Internal wave crest Denser water
Fig b, p. 282
Fig c, p. 282
Fig a, p. 283
CCW spin Direction of storm and storm surge Low atmospheric pressure Dome of water
Low atmospheric pressure CCW spin Direction of storm and storm surge Stepped Art Fig a, p. 283
Fig b, p. 283
Fig a, p. 284
Fig b, p. 284
Fig a, p. 285
Fig b, p. 285
Buffalo Toledo 172 Lake Erie water level (meters above sea level) :00 0:00 12:00 0:00 12:00 0:00 12:00 12 November13 November14 November15 November b Date 0:00
Fig , p. 286
Fig a, p. 287
Fig b, p. 287
Fig c, p. 287
Fig d, p. 287
Fig e, p. 287
Fig , p. 288
Fig , p. 288
Fig a, p. 289
Fig b, p. 289
Fig c, p. 289
Fig , p. 290
Fig , p. 290
November 14, 1994 Mindoro Island Maximum wave: 7 m Fatalities: 49 July 12, 1993 Okushiri, Japan Maximum wave: 31 m Fatalities: 239 October 9, 1995 Jalisco, Mexico Maximum wave: 11 m Fatalities: 1 January 1, 1996 Sulawesi Island Maximum wave: 3.4 m Fatalities: 9 February 17, 1996 Irian Jaya Maximum wave: 7.7 m Fatalities: 161 September 2, 1992 Nicaragua Maximum wave: 10 m Fatalities: 170 December 12, 1992 Flores Island Maximum wave: 26 m Fatalities: >1,000 July 17, 1998 Papua New Guinea Maximum wave: 15 m Fatalities: >2,200 June 2, 1994 East Java Maximum wave: 14 m Fatalities: 238 December 26, 2004 Indonesia and vicinity Maximum wave: 35 m Fatalities: >176,000 February 21, 1996 North coast of Peru Maximum wave: 5 m Fatalities: 12
Fig , p. 291
Fig a, p. 292
Fig b, p. 292
Fig c, p. 292
Fig , p. 293
GOES Satellite Transducers Signal flag Acoustic telemetry Glass ball flotation ~6000 m Transducer Bottom pressure recorder Sensor anchor Anchor
Table 10-3, p. 293