© Folens 2009 Learning objectives/aims All students: must be able to describe at least five different components and their uses. Most students: should be able to apply knowledge of what components are and how they are used, by designing a product that incorporates a wide range of components. Components What you need to know Components needed in the manufacture of a product: Fastenings, including zips, velcro, buttons, hook and eye, press stud, poppers, ties, laces, parachute clips, toggles, eyelets Decorative items, including appliqué motifs, ribbon, lace, braid, ric-rac Construction items such as shoulder pads, cuffing, interfacing, pockets.

© Folens 2009 Components A component refers to anything that is used to manufacture a textiles product apart from the fabric. Components are divided into four main categories: Threads and yarns Fastenings Functional components/Linings and interlinings Decorative components Many components can be decorative as well as being functional.

© Folens 2009 Choosing components When choosing components a designer should consider the following: What the product is, who will use it and what it will be used for. Whether the component will be decorative or functional. Price range of the product and cost of the component. Any relevant safety issues. Matching the size, weight and colour to the product. The components should have similar performance characteristics to the rest of the product, e.g. washability.

© Folens 2009 Threads and yarns The choice of thread is very important as it is a functional component that plays a key role in most textiles items. It is important that the properties of the thread match those of the fabric or they will react differently when in use. A good sewing thread will be strong, resistant to rot and elastic so it can move with the fabric. Polyester is the most common fibre used for sewing threads but cotton is still used. Linen and silk are used for specialist techniques such as embroidery. Blended threads are also used and threads can also be coated, e.g. with polyester. A range of other yarns and threads is also available for decorative purposes, e.g. knitting yarns, embroidery yarns.

© Folens 2009 Fastenings – zips Zips are a secure and strong method of fastening something. They can be bought in a wide range of sizes and colours. Zips can be purely functional and hidden away or can be decorative and inserted into products so they can be seen. Zips consist of metal or nylon teeth attached to a fabric backing. The teeth can be locked together using a slider. Most zips are closed at the end but open-ended zips are used for products such as jackets. Specialist ‘invisible’ zips are also available which can be inserted into products so they can’t be seen at all.

© Folens 2009 Fastenings – Velcro A Swiss engineer got the idea for Velcro from looking at thistles under a microscope. He saw how tiny hooks on the burrs got caught on fabric. This gave him the idea of having two strips of tape: one with tiny hooks and the other with tiny loops. When pressed together they lock onto each other to form a secure fastening. Velcro can be washed and dry cleaned and can also be sterilized, making it suitable for medical uses. Velcro is a functional fastening that is commonly used as a fastening for workwear, children’s clothing and footwear because it is strong, reliable and easy to use.

© Folens 2009 Fastenings – buttons and buttonholes (1) Buttons and buttonholes are a strong, secure and easy-to-use fastening. They can be decorative or functional. Buttons are available in a range of sizes, materials, colours and styles. They can be flat with holes or have a shank. The shank is designed to allow for the fabric to go underneath the button. You can also buy buttons that can be covered in fabric.

© Folens 2009 Fastenings – buttons and buttonholes (2) There is a variety of different types of buttonholes. Thread or fabric loops can also be used (rouleau loops). Both buttons and buttonholes are inserted on automated machines in industry.

© Folens 2009 Fastenings – hooks and eyes and poppers Hooks and eyes, and poppers (press studs) are functional fastenings that are mainly hidden away. They come in a range of sizes and as individual pieces or on strips of fabric which makes application to a product easier. Hooks and eyes are often used at the top of zips. Poppers are often used on children’s wear or where a quick, easy to open fastening is required. Poppers aren’t as strong and reliable as other forms of fastening.

© Folens 2009 Fastenings – eyelets, buckles, D-rings Eyelets are metal components with a hole through the middle. They come as individual eyelets or pre-made on fabric strips. They can be used for lace-up fastenings or products where quick adjustments are needed. Specialist machines are used to apply eyelets. Buckles come in range of sizes, shapes and materials. They often allow for something to be resized. D-rings are metal rings in the shape of a D. They are often used to attach straps to bags.

© Folens 2009 Interfacing and interlining Interfacings and interlinings are invisible on the outside of a product and have a functional purpose. They are used to reinforce areas, e.g. buttonholes, machine embroidery, collars, or to add extra weight and stiffness to a fabric. They are usually made from a non-woven fabric and are black or white. They come in different weights and thicknesses, and stretch versions are also available. They can be ironed onto fabric, in which case the interfacing will have glue on one side that will melt when ironed. Bondaweb is interfacing that has glue on both sides. It is used to hold up hems or to hold appliqué shapes down onto fabric while they are being sewn.

© Folens 2009 Bias binding and piping cord Bias binding is made from fabric that has been cut on the bias, which makes it stretchy. This means it can go around curves easily. It can be functional and be used to neaten the edges of a product, or it can be decorative and be sewn on so it is visible. In industry a specialist machine is used to speed up the process. Piping involves wrapping fabric or binding around a piece of cord and inserting it into a seam. It can be functional and add structure and stiffness to a product or be used for decoration.

© Folens 2009 Ribbons, braids, sequins and beads A variety of ribbons, braids, laces and cords is available. They can be used to decorate the surface of products or have a functional use, e.g. as ties, straps, and so on. There is a wide range of beads and sequins that can be used to decorate a product. These can be fiddly to apply and often have to be sewn on by hand, which increases the cost of a product. Consideration also has to be given as to whether the product can be washed, as some beads and sequins can’t be washed.

© Folens 2009 Rivets and embroidered logos Rivets are often used on jeans and jackets. They are metal studs whose original use was to act as a reinforcement for areas under stress. They are now often used for decoration. Pre-manufactured embroidered logos can be used to decorate a product. They can be sewn on and some come with an iron-on backing, cutting out the need for sewing them down.

© Folens 2009 Elastic and boning Elastic can be decorative or functional. It can be used to gather up an area of fabric or to hold something securely. Elastic comes in different widths as well as on a reel that can be used as a top thread in a machine (shirring elastic). It can be sewn directly onto a product or put inside a casing. Elastic can make a product cheaper to produce as it will fit a range of sizes and more expensive fastenings such as zips aren’t required. Boning is a strip of rigid but flexible plastic or polyester that is functional as it is used to give structure and shape to items such as corsets. It can be sewn directly onto the fabric or inserted into a casing.

© Folens 2009 Stuffing, wadding and shoulder pads Stuffing is used to fill cushions and other areas that need padding. Different types are available: polyester, Kapok, foam. Wadding is a non-woven polyester fabric that is used to quilt products, making them warm and padded. Shoulder pads provide protective padding or define the shape of the shoulder. They are mainly used in jackets and coats and are attached inside the lining so they can’t be seen.

© Folens 2009 Smart components The types of components that are available are changing all the time, as is how they are designed and manufactured. A wide variety of ‘smart’ components that react to their environment are now available. Many are both functional and decorative. Electronic light and sound modules can be put into products. In many cases the product will need to be designed taking into account that batteries might need to be accommodated and replaced. There is also a wide range of dyes available that react to heat and light and which add extra interest and functionality to products.