Construction techniques Learning ladder You must: recognise and name a range of different types of construction techniques. suggest appropriate construction techniques when making choices. You should: compare construction techniques to decide on which is best to use. consider the variety of construction techniques, level of accuracy on samples, number of samples produced and compared. You could: annotate technical drawings to describe how to do construction techniques. describe how each construction technique is carried out in industry, along with the names of machines. © Folens 2009

Introduction Look at a range of products and consider how they have been constructed (try not to focus on decorative techniques as these will be covered in another lesson). How are fabric pieces sewn together? How are the edges of things finished off? How is the product shaped to make it into a 3D shape or to make it fit a body? What other techniques can you see? © Folens 2009

Construction techniques Construction techniques refer to the way a product is made. The techniques are mainly functional, although some can have aesthetic and decorative qualities. When choosing a construction technique you should consider the purpose or function of the technique, where it will be used, the fabrics and components that will be used, if the product will need to be washed, who the user will be, manufacturing considerations, aesthetics and the effect you are trying to achieve. Quality control tip – iron/press each technique as you complete it, as it will give your product a better overall finish. © Folens 2009

Drawing construction techniques (1) In your exam you might be asked to use notes and annotated drawings to explain how to do construction techniques. Making samples of techniques and writing notes as you do them will help you revise this. You could also use the following website which has a variety of links to instructions for different construction techniques: www.sewingsupport.com/index.html W.S. © Folens 2009

Drawing construction techniques (2) When drawing diagrams of construction techniques the following codes are often used: R.S. = Right side of fabric W.S. = Wrong side of fabric L.S. = Lockstitch/straight stitch O.L./Z.Z. = Overlocker/zigzag The slides in this lesson on seams give you examples of technical drawings showing these techniques. W.S. © Folens 2009

Edge finishes Very few products have unfinished edges because many fabrics fray or go out of shape. Take care not to get an edge finish mixed up with a seam. You might find an edge finish on the bottom of a skirt, sleeve or pair of trousers and around a neckline, armhole or waistline. © Folens 2009

Hems A hem is where the fabric has been turned to the inside and stitched. It can be stitched by hand or by machine and be invisible or visible. A single-folded hem has the edge overlocked and then it is turned to the inside of the fabric and machined. A rolled hem is where the fabric has been turned and then turned again and machined. Specialist presser feet are available for the sewing machine. For a hem without stitches, bondaweb can be placed under the folded area and ironed into place. © Folens 2009

Joining pieces of binding Bias Binding is made from fabric cut on the bias. This makes it slightly stretchy so it will go around corners and curves easily. You can also make your own bias binding from fabric. Different widths and colours are available. When bought from the shops bias binding usually has both edges folded over so it is ready to use. Binding can be applied so it is visible or so it can’t be seen. Joining pieces of binding © Folens 2009

Cuffs, collars, waistbands Cuffs, collars and waistbands are complex edge finishes that play an important function on a product but which can also add to its aesthetic appearance. Most cuffs, collars and waistbands are interfaced to make them stronger and firmer. © Folens 2009

Facings and linings A lining is found on the inside of a range of products. Not only does it give a neatened edge and hides the construction of the product it can also add warmth and body to a product. Linings can be made into a decorative feature by using contrasting fabrics, adding decoration, labels, pockets and so on. A facing is found on the inside of products, e.g. around a neckline, armhole or waistline. It is usually made from the same fabric as the product and is a mirror image of the edge where the facing will be. © Folens 2009

Seams A seam is where two fabric edges are joined together. It can be designed to be seen or to be invisible. To make a seam the edges of two fabrics are usually put together with the right sides facing so that it will be on the inside of the product. There are, however, exceptions to this rule. The term ‘seam allowance’ refers to how wide the seam is and how far away from the edge of the fabric it has been stitched. On patterns bought from the shops this is usually 1.5cm but seam allowances can vary in industrial situations. © Folens 2009

Plain seams W.S. These are the most basic seams and the ones that are the most commonly used. The right side of the fabrics face each other and are sewn 1.5cm away from the edge with a lockstitch. The two sides of the seam can be pressed open and this is called an open seam. Each edge is usually neatened to stop it fraying, e.g. overlocked, zigzag stitch, binding, pinking shears. The two sides of the seam can be pressed together and neatened, e.g. with an overlocker or zigzag stitch, and this is called a closed seam. W.S W.S. W.S. © Folens 2009

Piped seams W.S. The piping is trapped in between the two layers of fabric. You can make a plain seam more interesting to look at by putting piping into the seam. This makes the seam slightly more difficult to do. Fabric is wrapped around piping cord and inserted into the plain seam before it is sewn together. A zip foot is needed in order to be able to sew close to the cord and get an accurate seam. © Folens 2009

Double-stitched seams A double-stitched seam is a strong seam with no visible raw edges. On the right side there are visible stitches so it is often used for decorative effect. It is frequently used on jeans and pyjamas. It is also known as a run and fell or flat fell seam. R.S. W.S. © Folens 2009

Sewing a double-stitched seam Note that this seam is sewn together from the right side of the fabric. Stitch an open seam – note that the wrong sides should be facing each other. Trim down one side of the seam to 5mm. Turn the edge of the remaining side to the inside by 5mm then press this edge down onto the opposite side, taking care to make sure the fabric remains flat. Stitch 1cm away from the join in the fabric. R.S. R.S. R.S. © Folens 2009

French seam A French seam shows no raw edges and there are no visible stitches on the right side of the fabric. It is often used for very fine fabrics, e.g. underwear, and so on. Stitch an open seam – note that the wrong sides should be facing each other and the seam is 1cm wide. Trim down both sides to 3mm. Turn fabric to the wrong side and stitch 5mm away from the join. W.S. R.S. R.S. © Folens 2009

Drawstring (this is also a fastening technique) Shaping Shaping techniques are a way of making a flat 2D piece into a 3D shape. The choice of shaping technique will depend on the desired finished effect, e.g. a dart will allow you to make a product fit the body closer whereas a pleat shapes the area but still allows for some movement. Drawstring (this is also a fastening technique) Dart © Folens 2009

How darts are labelled on paper patterns How to sew a dart How darts are labelled on paper patterns © Folens 2009

Other techniques Topstitching is the use of visible stitches on the surface of a fabric. It can be functional and hold things in position and it can also be decorative, especially if done in a different colour. There is a wide range of different types of pockets. A pocket can be functional but can also add aesthetics to a product. Patch pocket with topstitching Welt pocket Hip pocket and ticket pocket with topstitching © Folens 2009

Vocabulary Construction Hem Bias binding Binding Piped seam Dart Patch pocket Waistband Fastenings Edge finishes Seams Shaping Hem Binding Facing Lining Collar Cuff Open / plain seam Overlocked seam Double-stitched seam French seam Piped seam Dart Pleat Elastic Gathers Topstitching © Folens 2009