CHAPTER 11 PERMANENT WAVING

HISTORY OF PERMANENT WAVING Charles Nessler invented the first permanent method of curling the hair This complex system of wires heated up the metal rods that were wrapped around the hair to permanently curl the hair Possibility of receiving a shock or burn was a fear of the client’s

METHODS OF WRAPPING THE HAIR CROQUIGNOLE WRAPPING INTRODUCED AFTER WORLD WAR I WRAPPED THE HAIR FROM THE ENDS TO THE SCALP SPIRAL WRAPPING USED FOR LONG HAIR HAIR IS ROLLED FROM SCALP TO HAIR ENDS

COLD WAVES Scientists discovered waving lotion in 1941. Referred to as “cold waves” It was used to soften and expand the hair so that the hair could form to the size of roller being used The neutralizer was used to keep the hair in the new position This perm required no heat and virtually replaced all perms. Alkaline Perms

NEUTRAL AND ACID-BALANCED PERMS These type of perms were less damaging to the hair pH levels ranging from 4.7 to 7.9 were introduced in the 1970’s Did not contain strong alkalines and were less damaging to the hair Slower to penetrate the hair and and less damaging Requires heat from a dryer or lights

MODERN PERM CHEMISTRY Constantly being improved and refined Different formulas Both alkaline and acid are available for any type hair Requires a “two step” process for all perms Waving lotion- Softens or breaks the internal bonds Neutralizer- Rehardens the bonds in new form

ALKALINE PERMS Main ingredient is - Ammonium Thioglycolate Chemical compound made up of ammonia and thioglycolate pH ranges from 8.2 - 9.6 depending on the amount of ammonia Benefits include- strong curl pattern, faster processing time, Room temp processing Should be used to: Perm resistant hair Client has a history of curl relaxing

ACID-BALANCED PERMS Slower, but more controllable processing time Main ingredient is- Glycerl Monothioglycolate Reduces the pH Range from 4.5 - 6.5 Penetrate the hair more slowly Requires outside heat in order to process Produces a softer more natural curl Slower, but more controllable processing time Gentler treatment for delicate hair types Can be used on color treated hair Produces more style support, rather than strong curl

CHEMISTRY OF NEUTRALIZERS NEUTRALIZERS FOR BOTH ACID-BALANCED AND ALKALINE PERMS HAVE THE SAME IMPORTANT FUNCTIONS: PERMANENTLY ESTABLISH NEW CURL SHAPE NEUTRALIZING IS A VERY IMPORTANT STEP IN THE PERMING PROCESS, IF NOT PROPERLY NEUTRALIZED, THE CURL WILL RELAX OR STRAIGHTEN WITHIN 1 OR 2 SHAMPOOING MOST ARE COMPOSED OF A SMALL % OF HYDROGEN PEROXIDE, AN OXIDIZING AGENT, AT AN ACIDIC pH

HAIR STRUCTURE AND PERMING All perms subject the hair to two different actions: PHYSICAL ACTION - wrapping sections of hair around the perm rod CHEMICAL ACTION - created first by a reducingagent (waving lotion) and second by oxidizing agent (neutralizer) Both of these actions work together to create a change in the internal structure of the hair

CHEMISTRY IN PERMANENT WAVING PROTEIN IN HAIR BONDS IN THE HAIR RUN BOTH VERTICAL AND HORIZONTAL VERTICAL BONDS - POLYPEPTIDE BONDS KEEPS HAIR TOGETHER HORIZONTAL BONDS- CROSS BONDS CYSTINE AND DISULFIDE BONDS KEEPS HAIR IN ONE POSITION, MAKES HAIR STRONG