1 Sewing Skills Chapter 23

2 Sewing is a complex task Learn fabrics, patterns, equipment, and basic sewing techniques

3 Fabric Grain Grain = the direction of yarn Warp runs lengthwise Runs the same direction as the selvage Filling yarns run crosswise Bias = runs diagonally

4 Bias To find the true bias Pick up a corner and fold it so the cut edge is parallel with the selvage

5 Checking the Grain Off-grain = fabric is crooked, hard to handle Finished product will twist, pull to one side, hang unevenly

6 Check the Grain Straighten the cut edges Inside the cut edge pick up one filling yarn and pull it gently With the other hand push the fabric

7 Preparing the Fabric Many are preshrunk Shrunk during processing Check the label on the end of the bolt If not shrunk you need to do so

8 To Preshrink Wash and dry as you would the finished product If pressing is needed do so before placing pattern pieces Press in the direction of the lengthwise grain

9 Preparing the Pattern Remove pattern pieces from the envelope Write your name and class period on the center of each one, guide sheet, pattern envelope Trim pattern pieces before placing them

10 If pattern pieces are wrinkled, press them carefully

11 Adjusting the Pattern Length Check your measurements Use the chart on the back of the envelope Altering pattern pieces first and not finished garment

12 Most pattern pieces are labeled “lengthen or shorten” here Lengthen the piece by taping paper to the pattern piece To shorten, vice versa **be sure to lengthen and shorten in equal amounts

13 Altering the bottom edge of pattern pieces does not solve all fitting problems Follow the pattern’s advice

14 The Pattern Layout Decide which is the right side of your fabric Fold right sides together (lengthwise)

15 Fabric Lay outs Lengthwise fold Crosswise fold Off-center lengthwise fold=fold one selvage toward another Bias fold= runs diagonally across fabric

16 Guide sheet = suggests layouts Shows you how to lay your pieces on the fabric Draw a circle around the ones you need

17 Most pattern pieces are placed on the fabric with print side up Shaded piece is upside down Most pieces need to be cut twice Lay out all pieces before you begin cutting

18 Pinning Begin with larger pieces first Look for the grain line on each piece Check for pieces placed on fold Push the pins through all layers Smooth out pattern pieces Check lay out one more time

19 Cutting Bent handle shears are best for cutting Look for arrows in the seam line Cut with long, smooth strokes Keep your free hand lightly on pattern Cut notches out not IN!!! Cutting double notches cut across top and then down

20 Marking Markings on pieces that need to be transferred Center front, center back, darts, dots, buttons, etc Remove the pins after markings are done

21 Tracing wheel with dressmaker’s carbon paper Tailors chalk Using thread--contrasting

22 Machine Sewing As you start to sew Check the spool and bobbin Place fabric under presser foots Put down presser foot Using right hand, turn the hand wheel and lower the needle

23 Stitch at a slow, constant speed Keep both hands lightly on the fabric near the presser foot Don’t push or pull the fabric

24 Instead of tying threads at the start and end of the seam you can backstitch As you sew, remove the pins before the presser foot comes to them

25 Turning Corners Stitch to within 5/8 of an inch of the corner Stop Needle down into the fabric Life the presser foot Turn the fabric Lower the presser foot And continue to sew

26 Directional Stitching Sewing in the same direction as the cutting line

27 Basting Long and loose Made by hand or by machine To be removed easily Helps when you check fit of garment

28 Easing & Gathering Basting stitches are used Ease and gather are much alike Make extra fabric fit into a smaller space Sew one line on sewing line and one 1/8 inch into seam allowance See page 370 figure 23-25

29 Darts Provide shape and fullness Point to the fullest part of body curves Darts at waistline etc To make a dart, stitch at the widest point and sew to the point

30 Seams Plain seam = right sides together, matching notches, etc Pins put at right angles For pressing See page 371 figure 23-29

31 Flat-felt seam = used on shirts, sportswear, jeans, pj’s, etc Stitch a plain seam with wrong sides together, trim under and press seam to one side, then turn it under See page 372 for examples

32 Welt seam = less bulky than flat fell French seam = seam within a seam

33 Finishing Seams Pinked/scalloped seam Look nice, but do not prevent raveling Turned and stitched seam finishes Looks neat and prevents raveling See page 373 figure 23-33

34 Trimming, Grading and Clipping Trim = cut away a part of the seam allowance Grading=each seam allowance cut to a different width Clipping= clip every 1/4 inch on curves Inward and outward

35 Facing Used to cover raw edges in a garment Armholes, neckline, etc Extended facing is cut as part of your pattern piece Fitted facing is cut the same shape as the raw edge

36 Interfacing Fabric that lies between two other fabrics Used to add body to collars, cuffs, lapels, waistbands, and pockets Woven VS non woven

37 Woven Move flexibility Non woven No grain and can be cut in any direction

38 Zippers Come in all lengths, weights, styles, and colors Pattern envelope tells you what length you need Sewn into place by machine Use a zipper foot

39 Centered Zippers Used at center front and center back openings Measure length of the zipper and add one inch See page 378 for more details

40 Lapped Zippers Zipper coil is less visible Can hide zipper from view Sew, baste, and press zipper Fly-front zippers are a variation of the lap zipper

41 Invisible Zippers Invisible zipper looks like a regular seam Only pull tab is visible

42 Hems Last step in sewing a garment Should be smooth, even, almost invisible Make sure edges are finished

43 Marking a Hem Stand in front of a mirror and test lengths Easiest way is to ave someone help you Use a skirt marker, yardstick or meter stick Measure from the floor to the desired length

44 Place the pins at right angles and baste close to the hemline

45 Removing Extra Fullness Garment is flared the hem does not lie flat Extra fabric puckers at the upper edge To ease, machine stitch 1/4 inch from cut edge Turn the hem up Pin hem to the garment at each seam line

46 Finishing Hems Finish fabrics so they do not ravel See page 385 figure etc Seam binding- used for medium or heavyweight fabrics Stretch lace binding= medium and lightweight fabrics Bias binding= used for fabrics that ravel a great deal

47 Securing Hems Sewn into place by hand Space stitches evenly Slipstitch -- hardly shows on either side Blindstitch -- shows even less than the slip stitch Topstitching- used to secure hem

48 Advanced or Special Sewing Skills First time sew something with fewer pieces More experienced have more pieces and more difficult.