1 Textiles Semester Test

2 Patterns and their Parts Pattern Envelope Front of the envelope – drawing or photos of the design –Several garment views –Lists pattern number, size, and price –Indicates if “easy”

3 Reverse side of pattern envelope –Shows how the garment looks from the back –Lists amount of fabric and notions needed

4 Guide Sheet Guide sheet – gives step-by-step information for cutting, marking and sewing Has cutting layouts and general information Shows hot to lengthen or shorten a pattern

5 Guide sheet Has sewing directions and pictures

6 Cutting layout – diagram that shows how to arrange pattern pieces on fabric Easier to recognize and find the pattern pieces you need Select the diagram that matches your view, pattern size, and fabric width

7 Sewing directions Step-by-step appear on the back of the guide Fabric key – shows how shading and texture indicate right and wrong sides of fabric and interfacing or lining

8 Pattern pieces Each piece is marked with a number or a letter and with a specific name (collar sleeve) Number of fabric pieces to be cut is printed on the pattern piece Symbols and lines guide you during cutting and sewing

9 Pattern Preparation 1. Remove the entire pattern from the envelope. 2. on the guide sheet, circle the cutting layout you’ll use. 3. select the pattern pieces for the view you’re sewing

10 4. Fold the rest of the pattern pieces and put them back into the envelope 5. Cut apart any pattern pieces printed together on one large piece of tissue paper 6. Write your name on the guide sheet, pattern envelope, and pattern pieces

11 7. smooth out pattern pieces. Iron if necessary 8. on a multi-sized pattern, mark cutting lines for your size with a felt-tip pen

12 Preparing Fabric Preshrink Fabric Wash or dry-clean the fabric to prevent or minimize later shrinkage Helps remove some fabric finishes that cause stitching problems

13 Fabrics Washable –Machine wash, tumble dry Hand-washable –Fold the fabric and place in hot or warm water for 30 minutes, tumble dry or dry flat Fabrics to be dry-cleaned –Take to the cleaners or self-service dry cleaner

14 Straightening the Grain Off grain – when crosswise and lengthwise yarns are not at right angles If not straightened the finished garment may twist or pull To straighten, pull on the true bias (pg 491) Refold and check for straightness

15 Pressing Fabric Press to remove all wrinkles Check to be sure center fold can be pressed out

16 Laying Out the Pattern Cutting layout shows how to fold fabric Most fabric is folded with the right side in Pattern pieces are placed on the wrong side of the fabric Stripes, plaids, and prints should be folded right side out to match designs

17 Lengthwise fold – fold fabric in half lengthwise with right sides together Crosswise fold- fold fabric in half crosswise with right sides together Double fold – fold fabric twice along the lengthwise grain, right sides together Partial fold – fold fabric on the lengthwise grain, right sides together, only wide enough to fit one pattern piece

18 After folding fabric, smooth out any wrinkles by pulling both layers of fabric at the ends or sides Work on large, hard surface so the full width of the fabric can be laid out

19 Pinning Pattern Pieces Lay out all pattern pieces in the same position shown in the cutting layout Most pieces are placed printed side up on fabric Pattern pieces that are shaded on layout should be placed with the printed side down

20 An arrow or “place-on-fold” bracket indicates the grain line Place every pattern piece exactly on the proper grain line Never tilt or angle the pieces to fit Place pins at right angles to the pattern edge, making sure the points don’t go past the cutting line

21 1. start with large pattern pieces that go on the fold. Place the pattern fold line exactly along the fabric fold. Pin corners and then the remaining edges. 2. next, pin pattern pieces that have a grain-line arrow. Place a pin at the end of each arrow, pinning through all fabric layers

22 3. count the number of pieces on the cutting layout and compare to the number on the fabric. 4. double-check your layout.

23 Special Lay out Napped fabric – place all pattern pieces in the same direction Plaids – can be even or uneven, depending on the repeat of the lines, even plaids are the same in both vertical and horizontal directions, use without-nap layout; uneven plaids, use with-nap layout

24 Stripes – even stripes, use a without-nap layout; uneven use a with-nap layout Directional prints- use a with-nap layout. Match designs at seam lines Border prints – place the pattern pieces on the crosswise grain

25 Cutting & Marking Use bent-handled shears –Hold fabric flat on cutting surface Cut directionally with the grain line –Some patterns have a symbol printed on the cutting line or stitching line Follow the correct cutting line on a multi-sized pattern –Mark the cutting lines for your own size with felt-tip pen to make them easier to follow, or trim the patter pieces

26 Cut carefully around notches –Use the tip of the shears and cut outwards –Cut double and triple notches together Leave pattern pieces pinned to the fabric until you’re ready to sew –Transfer construction marking to fabric before unpinning Save all fabric scraps –Use them to test marking methods, type and length of stitches

27 What to Mark Transfer marks to fabric –Darts, pleats, tucks, dots, and placement lines, buttonholes, buttons, pockets and trims

28 Marking Methods Fabric-marking pens 1. stick pins straight through the pattern and both fabric layers at all marking points 2. start at an outside edge of the pattern piece and carefully separate the layers enough to place an ink dot where the pin is inserted 3. repeat, working toward the center of the garment section until all symbols are marked

29 Tracing Wheel & Paper Quick and useful for most fabrics Tracing paper has a waxy surface and available in different colors Papers that make permanent marks –Only on wrong side of fabric Papers that make removable marks –Right or wrong side

30 Tailor’s Chalk Mark on the wrong side 1. push a pin through both layers of fabric at each symbol 2. make a chalk mark at each pin on top layer of fabric 3. turn the fabric over and mark the other layer at each pin Brushes off carefully

31 Machines & Equipment Universal or general-purpose –Sharp point, for most knitted and woven fabrics Ballpoint –Knits and stretch fabrics, slightly rounded tip

32 Stretch –Prevent skipped stitches, synthetic suede, elastic knitwear Leather –Wedge-shaped point, pierces leather, vinyl Twin –Decorative stitching

33 Needle Sizes Range from 6 (very delicate 20 ( for heavy fabrics) Lower the number the finer the needle Size 9 or 11 = fine, lightweight fabrics Size 14 = medium weight Size 16 = heavier or thick fabrics

34 Thread Fine thread for lightweight fabrics Heavier thread for heavier fabrics

35 Changing Needles 1. Raise the needle to the highest position by turning the hand wheel 2. Loosen the thumbscrew on the needle clamp. 3. Remove the old needle, being sure to notice its position. The long groove on the needle should face the side from which you thread the needle.

36 4. Insert the top of the needle firmly up into the needle clamp. 5. tighten the thumbscrew securely

37 Preparing Bobbin Bobbin = holds the bottom thread in the sewing machine Must be removed from the bobbin case to be wound

38 Winding Bobbin Loosen the hand-wheel knob to stop movement of the needle. 2.Insert the end of the thread through a hole in the bobbin. 3.Wrap the thread securely around the bobbin several times. 4. Place the bobbin on the bobbin winder. 5. Hold the end of the thread until the bobbin starts winding.

39 Tips Make sure bobbin winds evenly Gently guide it with your finger Cut thread with scissors and remove bobbin

40 Insert bobbin in the opening in the slide plate Pull bobbin thread gently to see whether there is slight tension –Tightness of thread

41 Tension Discs Be sure to check the threading of tension discs Pull thread gently to double check Thread should pull with slight resistance

42 Thread Guides Location of the last thread guide tells you in which direction to thread the needle If on right, thread right If on left, thread left If in front, thread to back

43 Raising Bobbin Thread Hold the needle thread in your left hand With your right hand, turn the hand wheel slowly towards you until the needle enters the throat plate Continue turning until the needle rises and brings up a loop of the bobbin thread. Pull up the loop to bring the end of the bobbin thread out Pull both thread ends under the presser foot and to the back

44 Adjusting Machine Lockstitch = needle thread intertwines with the bobbin thread Creates a stitch that doesn’t pull out or unravel when a loop or loose thread is pulled

45 Adjusting Stitch Type Straight stitch most common Decorative stitches available

46 Adjusting Stitch Length Number from 6 – 20 which indicate number of stitches per inch Stitch length should match fabric type and stitching purpose

47 Regular stitching = choose a medium length stitch for most fabrics (10 – 12 stitches per inch) –For lightweight use a shorter stitch Machine Basting = longest stitch possible for easy removal Reinforcement stitching= very short stitches to prevent stretching or pulling in certain areas (15 to 20 stitches per inch)

48 Adjusting Tension Please don’t touch the tension discs Tension is seen in your sample stitches on a double layer of fabric Adjustments are done by the teacher

49 Adjusting Pressure Presser foot- holds fabric against the feed dog, which moves the fabric forward Some machines have pressure regulators, ours do not

50 Using the Sewing Machine Guidelines on Stitching 1. before you start to stitch, raise the take- up lever and the needle to the highest position. 2. place the fabric under the presser foot. Put the bulk of the fabric to the left of the needle

51 3. Position the stitching line directly under the needle. 4. To begin stitching, turn the hand wheel to lower the needle into the fabric. Then lower the presser foot. Gradually apply pressure on the knee or foot control to stitch

52 Stitching Straight First attempts may not be straight Learn to guide the fabric with your hands, without pulling or pushing Use guideline marking on throat plate to help

53 Stitching Problems Frequently the cause of stitching problems is incorrect threading Rethread the machine, check the needle and ask the teacher for help

54 Sewing Machine Accessories Straight-stitch foot – has a narrow opening and is used for sewing straight stitches Zigzag foot – has a wide opening to allow for sideways needle motion of zigzag and special stitches Zipper foot- can be adjusted to the right or left side of the needle for stitching close to zipper teeth or cording

55 Buttonhole foot – has markings for measuring buttonhole stitches Blind-stitch-hem foot – guides the fabric for a blind-stitch hem

56 Sewing Machine Care Routine care keeps a sewing machine in top working condition Machines need cleaned before the start of a new project Get out lint from bobbin case, etc

57 Always unplug the machine before cleaning Use a soft cloth to remove lint or fuzz Use a soft brush to clean bobbin and bobbin case Wipe away old oil with a cloth

58 Oiling New machines do not need oiling, it is already imbedded Older machines, read manufacturers directions for oiling and wipe away excess

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60 Computerized Machines State of the art – expensive Push button commands LCD screens to display stitches Can draw your own designs Embroidery items, etc

61 Getting Ready to Sew Gather all your notions and supplies Double-check the steps to take Press after each construction step Fit as you go

62 Pattern & Their Parts Pattern envelope Front –Drawing or photo –Several garment views –Lists pattern number –Size –Price –“easy

63 Guide Sheet Step-by-step information for cutting, marking and sewing Cut out layouts and general information How to lengthen or shorten pattern Reverse side has sewing directions

64 Cutting Layouts Is a diagram that shows how to arrange pattern pieces on fabric Separate cutting layout may be included for interfacing and lining

65 Sewing Directions Step-by-step sewing directions appear on the back of the guide sheet Fabric key shows how shading and texture indicate the right and wrong side of fabric any interfacing or lining

66 Pattern Pieces Each piece marked with a number or letter with a specific name (collar, sleeve) Number of fabric pieces to be cut is also printed on the pattern piece Symbols and lines serve as guides

67 Pattern Preparation Pieces will tear quite easily 1. Remove the entire pattern from envelope 2. On the guide sheet, circle the cutting layout you will use

68 3. select the pattern pieces for the view you are sewing 4. fold the rest of the pattern pieces and put away 5. cut apart any pattern pieces printed together that you need

69 6. write your name on the guide sheet, pattern envelope and all the pattern pieces 7. smooth out pattern pieces 8. on multi-sized pattern, mark cutting lines for your size See page 484 Figure 7-4 See page 484 Figure 7-5

70 Adjusting the Pattern Loosely fitted garments, minor differences can be overlooked For fitted garments, measurements should correspond to your body measurements

71 Understanding Ease Pattern sizes are designed for the body measurements listed on the pattern envelope Most garments have ease added to the pattern Ease is the amount of fullness added to a pattern to allow for movement and comfort

72 Comparing Measurements Compare your measurements with the ones listed on the pattern envelope If a measurement is not listed, measure the actual pattern piece Seam lines are always 5/8 of an inch

73 Pattern Adjustments Pg 487 Lengthen Cut the pattern at adjustment line Keep edges parallel Tape pattern pieces with other paper To add to length measure from the edge of the pattern Shortening Fold the pattern along the adjustment line and bring fold up exactly where it needs to meet new line and tape At lower edge redraw new line

74 Adjusting Width Total width adjustment of 2 inches or less can be made at the side seams Adjustments over 2 inches require cutting and spreading pattern pieces

75 To increase Tape paper along pattern piece edge Redraw cutting lines and seam lines See page 488 To decrease Measure in ¼ of necessary amount Redraw cutting lines and side seams

76 Preparing Fabric Straightening Fabric Ends Selvage –two finished edges running lengthwise Straighten the fabric by pulling if possible and on knitted you need to cut See page 490 Figure 9-1

77 Preshrinking Wash or dry-clean fabric to prevent of minimize shrinkage Helps remove fabric finishes that cause stitching problems

78 Washable fabrics –Simply wash –If ravel easily, zigzag the raw edges Hand-washable –Fold fabric and place in hot or warm water for 30 minutes and tumble dry or dry flat Dry clean –Take to a dry cleaner or self service

79 Straightening the Grain Off grain – when the crosswise and lengthwise yarns are not at right angles If not straightened the final product might pull or twist To straighten pull on the true bias See page 491 Figure 9-5

80 Pressing Fabric Press fabric and pattern pieces if necessary Fabric needs to be flat and no wrinkles

81 Laying out the Pattern Finding the right side Usually right side is out on the bolt May be shinier or brighter

82 Folding the Fabric Cutting layout shows exactly how to fold fabric Most are folded with right sides together Stripes and plaids are folded wrong side out for matching

83 Fabric may need to be folded lengthwise, crosswise, double, or partial See page 492 Figure 10-1

84 Lengthwise –Fold fabric lengthwise with right sides together Crosswise –fold fabric crosswise, right sides together Double fold –Fold fabric twice along the lengthwise grain, right sides together (usually for knits) Partial fold –Fold fabric on lengthwise, right sides together only wide enough for pattern piece

85 After folding, smooth out any wrinkles Work on a large, hard surface to full width of fabric can be laid out

86 Pinning the Pattern Pieces Lay out all pieces in same position as shown in the cutting layout Most are placed printed side up An arrow or “place on fold” bracket indicates the grain line Never tilt or angle a piece to fit Place pins at right angles

87 Follow These Steps 1. Start with large pattern pieces that go on the fold 2. Pin pieces that have a grain line arrow 3. Count number of pieces on cutting layout and compare to the number on the fabric 4. Double-check your layout

88 Special Lay outs Napped fabric –Lay pieces in same direction –Nap to run up the garment Plaids –Even or uneven –Use dominant line of the plaid for the center front or back

89 Stripes –Use a without-nap layout –Dominant stripe in middle of front and back Directional prints –Use with-nap layout Border prints –Place pieces on crosswise grain –Place others where they will fit

90 Cutting & Marking Fabric Cut accurately Use bent-handled shears Cut directionally with the grain line Follow correct cutting line on multi-sized pattern Cut carefully around notches

91 Leave pattern pieces pinned to the fabric until you are ready to sew Save all fabric scrapes –To test marking methods, stitches, pressing temperatures

92 Stitch Lengths Basting –Temporarily holds –Very long, 6 stitches per inch Standard –Permanent seams –10 – 12 stitches per inch Reinforcement –Add strength to areas –Very short stitch ( 15 – 20 per inch)

93 Types of Machine Stitching Stay-stitching –Prevents stretching as you handle fabric –Placed on bias and curved edges Directional stitching –Prevents seam from stretching or changing as you stitch –Stitch with the grain

94 Standard seam stitching 5/8 of an inch –Almost all patterns Backstitching –Secures ends of a row of stitching –Stitch back and then forward again

95 Understitching –Keeps facing from rolling out –1/8 inch –On right side of fabric, see figure 12-5 page 503 Topstitching –Decorative and functional –Outlines seams, secures facing, holds hems –See Figure 12.6 Page 503

96 Edge stitching –Holds fabric and seams in place –Topstitching very close to finished edge –Zippers and neck edges figure 12.8 Stitch-in-the-ditch –Holds two or more layers together –Secure neckline, armhole, etc –On the outside in the groove of the seam line

97 Zigzag stitching –Used to finish seams, buttonholes, attach cording –Decorative designs Specialty stitches Decorative

98 Before You Sew Practice sewing on scrap material Is the stitch length correct? Are stitches correct width? Is the tension right? Needle smooth and straight? Presser foot firm and tight? Handwheel tightened after winding the bobbin

99 Unit construction – complete individual parts as fully as possible before sewing them together Complete stay stitching etc

100 Remove Stitches Mistakes happen Remove with seam ripper, thread clippers or small scissors

101 Hand Sewing Thread a needle Usually single thread Make a knot as shown on page 506 figure 13.1

102 Types of Hand Sewing Basting stitch –Temporary stitching that marks or holds pieces together –Removed when permanent stitching is done Two types Uneven and even

103 Running stitch –Simplest –Gather, ease, tuck, quilt –Use where little or no strain See figure 13.4 Page 507 Backstitch –Strongest hand stitch –Repair machine stitch seams and fasten thread ends

104 Pick stitch –Variation of the backstitch –Used to insert zippers Slip stitch –almost invisible –Can attach one folded edge to another –Patch pockets, hems, linings, etc

105 Over cast –Prevents raw edges from unraveling –Diagonal stitches over edge of fabric Hemming stitch –Slanted stitch –Finishing stitch

106 Blind stitch –Barely visible from garment’s right side –Hemming and holding facings down Catch stitch –Criss-cross stitch holds two layers together –flexible

107 Cross-stitch –Decorative stitch –Center back of pleat jacket Buttonhole stitch –Handworked buttonholes –Attaching hooks and eyes –Decorative finish

108 Blanket stitch –Thread loops, eyes and belt carriers –Decorative finish Chain stitch –Forms thread loops, eyes and carriers –Double thread to form a series of loops

109 Pressing Fabric??? Press (raising and lowering iron )rather than iron (slides back and forth) Use correct temperature setting Always test your fabric to see reaction Press on wrong side whenever possible When pressing on right side, always use a press cloth

110 Never press over pins Always press seams and darts before other seams are stitched across them Press directionally with the grain Press seams flat before you press them open

111 Press curved areas over a curved surface –Tailor’s ham Prevent press marks on right side, slip pieces of paper under the edges of the seam Check the fit of the garment before you press sharp creases, pleats

112 Don’t over press –When pressing an entire garment –Start with small areas first Collars, cuffs, yokes –Later press large flat areas

113 Pressing Techniques Flat areas Place garment on ironing board with both seam allowances to one side Open the fabric and place over board

114 Curved areas –Darts, curved seams (tailor’s ham) –Press darts and seams flat to blend stitches –Place fabric wrong side up on tailor’s ham

115 Enclosed Seams –Press seam flat –Press seam open –Turn right side out, gently push out corner or point –Press garment section flat on ironing board

116 Gathered areas –Press seam allowances together flat –Slip garment over end of ironing board –Press direction up into the gathers with the point of the iron

117 Shrinking in Fullness –Hold the iron above the fabric to allow steam to penetrate before pressure –Use your fingers to pat out any folds –Press edge of the fabric to shrink in fullness

118 Final Pressing While constructing garment Light pressure will remove wrinkles Light touch up at end

119 Making Darts Fold the dart with right sides together matching stitching lines Stitch from the wide end to the point Stitch the last two stitches as close to the fold line as possible Tie the thread ends

120 Pressing Darts Always press dart before crossing it with another seam

121 Gathering & Easing Fabric Adjust stitch length to 6 – 8 stitches Stitch the first row of basting next to the seam line Leave the threads long Stitch second row ¼ inch away and leave thread long

122 Pin the fabric edges matching, notches, seams, etc Pull up both bobbin thread from one end Gently slide the fabric along the stitching Wrap ends around a pin Distribute gathers evenly and pin Stitch with standard stitching along stitch lines

123 Shirring is formed by several rows of gathers Easing most often used at shoulder seams See page 518 figure 16-7

124 Sewing Plain Seams Stay-stitch any bias or curved areas Pin baste fabric layers together Raise the needle and take up lever Position fabric under needle Lower presser foot Backstitch for ½ inch and then forward Stitch forward slowly and evenly

125 Clip threads at the seam end and beginning Finish the seam edges if necessary

126 Turning a corner Stitch to within 5/8 inch stop with needle in fabric Lift presser foot Turn fabric Lower presser foot and continue

127 Turning a Sharp Point Take one or two diagonal stitches across the corner Raise presser foot, leave in needle and stitch diagonal

128 Reinforcement Stitches Reinforcement stitches on side of each point Prevent fabric yarns from pulling out

129 Special Seam Treatments Trimming Seam allowance in cut to ¼ inch (evenly) Grading Trim each layer of the seam allowance to a different width (reduces bulk) Clipping On curved seams, making tiny clips or snips (1/4 to ½ inch)

130 Notching Curved seams with too much fabric After being trimmed or graded Cutting out tiny wedges no more than 1/8 to seam line